Thanks AJ , I Think I get what your saying pressure wise but how would the exhaust move to another header tube ?Exhaust pressure is higher than intake pressure. With nothing coming down the pipe from the bad cylinder, exhaust from the merge can go back up the pipe, the wrong way.
I am thinking I over adjusted the rocker , the valves were opening and closing but the exhaust must have been staying cracked open just enough to prevent the cylinder from pressurizing by allowing the piston to push the intake charge past the exhaust valve ,With the exhaust hung open the cylinder was not filling with intake charge. See, you're thinking the piston sucks in the intake charge. That is only partially so, and only if the exhaust valve is sealed. When the piston is moving down on the intake stroke, it is reducing the pressure in the chamber, allowing atmospheric air, which is at a higher pressure, to migrate into it. Air always flows from a high pressure area to a low pressure area.
But with the exhaust valve hung open, the piston cannot reduce the pressure in the cylinder. And with pressure in the exhaust system being higher than atmospheric pressure, exhaust will flow into the cylinder instead, of air at atmospheric pressure. Since the intake valve is still open, this exhaust can find it's way into the plenum too. Once the chamber is full of exhaust, and the piston turns around headed up on the compression stroke the intake will still be open for 50 or 60 or more degrees. So as the piston is coming up, it will be pushing the exhaust out of the cylinder. Since the intake plenum is at a lower pressure than the exhaust,and the intake valve will be open further than the hung valve, for some unknown number of degrees, there is a good chance that some of that exhaust will be migrating into the plenum.
This would be EGR to the max!,lol.
Whence the zero cylinder pressure when I did the test , when I test I remove the carb and all the plugs then screw in the pressure guage and spin the motor for 5 cycles as indicated by the huffing sound . Thats why I couldn't believe the reading of zero . My logic is that with zero pressure the cylinder wasn't actually firing which was also how the plug looked Oh the plug was still firing, but with no air/fuel charge in there, a fat lot of good it was doing! I know the pushrod was in the adjuster correctly which is why I am thinking it must have gotten hung up on the shoulder of the lifter instead of going down into the pocket making the pushrod effectively too long .Firstly, I don't think this is possible, but suppose it was; if you adjusted it with the foot on the lifter body, I doubt the engine would have turned more than a couple of revolutions before the pushrod popped into the socket. But now the clearance would have been excessive, and it probably would not have stayed on the upper adjuster. But suppose it did, then if it did stay, it would have been very very noisy.
I kindof think you are grasping on this idea.
Until the "release" yesterday I wasn't able to back the adjuster up enough to fully loosen the pushrod so I just went from maximum available loose to 1 turn preload which is how I screwed up , I am exagerating when I say washed the cylinder more likely just repeatedly misted the piston top lightly the only thing I am looking for visually is if there is a dent in the aluminum piston from hitting the steel valve tho I am pretty sure I would have heard a ticking or hammering if that was the case .I called looking for the dent a waste of time, cuz a new compression test will tell you everything you need to know. If the compression in this hole is the same as all the rest then the valve is ok, and that is the only important thing. If you go looking for a dent and find it, then the compression will be poor too. I appreciate what you are telling me I actually have spare Head gaskets but the 35 buck intake gaskets would have to be shipped in thanks to my living on an island .I also have the numbers 318 sitting on a stand rebuilt and ready to go back in if things do go horribly wrong .One step at a time I guess ,if I had a shop and a hoist to pull it I would jump on that train immediately but I don't and tearing it down in my tiny garage is a real nightmare . I am going to inspect everything I can , then manually crank the motor while resetting every adjuster then finally spin it some more with the plugs out to see if it sticks or if I have found my eff up and corrected it without doing any harm , then if nothing seems amiss I'll fire it up and run it in the drive for a couple of 20 minute cycles check everything again then procede to test hops .
PS thanks for the write up on the transfer port tuning , I set up the carb your way and it fired right up like a champ , well a seven cylinder champ apparently but a champ none the less .It really helped me understand how the carb was working . Glad to hear it, and you're welcome.
