zero compression yes Zero lol !

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I've had valves stick in small aircraft engines for a second or 2 and then go on running just fine forever. (Dropping 1 of 4 cylinders in the air WILL get your attention LOL!) So, crud in the guides can do this. Hope it stays fixed. I 'd put some Rislone or MMO in the oil for a few hundred miles to clean things out.
 
AJ/FormS said:
What do you mean when you say"got to running the valves again"?
Glad to hear she's working again.
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I mean I reset the lash on all of them and made sure the preload was good and all of the pushrods were seated in the lifters and adjusters properly .That and I pulled the carb and flipped it over to get that transfer slot right .I' m hoping to make a long trip in it later this summer so I really want to correct the severe rich condition it developes once I get east of the rockies .
 
nm9stheham said:
I've had valves stick in small aircraft engines for a second or 2 and then go on running just fine forever. (Dropping 1 of 4 cylinders in the air WILL get your attention LOL!) So, crud in the guides can do this. Hope it stays fixed. I 'd put some Rislone or MMO in the oil for a few hundred miles to clean things out.
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I'm running synthetic which makes it harder to find an additive product but I am looking , I am now more that ever convinced it was the pushrod not seated in the lifter or the lash too tight not the valve sticking but either way we'll see if it stays together eh lol !
PS I bet the pucker factor is off the chart when that happens mid air yikes !
 
cannucky said:
I mean I reset the lash on all of them and made sure the preload was good and all of the pushrods were seated in the lifters and adjusters properly .That and I pulled the carb and flipped it over to get that transfer slot right .I' m hoping to make a long trip in it later this summer so I really want to correct the severe rich condition it developes once I get east of the rockies .
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Hey, I live East of the Rockies. I am at about 900 ft.
I seem to recall each 2000ft is one MJ size.
Victoria is practically in the water. The top of the mountain is practically in space,lol. So when going up, keep your eye on the AFRs. The loss of air density, coupled with the preponderance of fuel being dumped in with ever-increasing throttle opening is a one-two punch for loss of power.Bring your jet set,lol.
Welcome to the Prairies.
 
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cannucky said:
I'm running synthetic which makes it harder to find an additive product but I am looking , I am now more that ever convinced it was the pushrod not seated in the lifter or the lash too tight not the valve sticking but either way we'll see if it stays together eh lol !
PS I bet the pucker factor is off the chart when that happens mid air yikes !
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Well, Linkite is the stuff used in small aircraft engines to prevent valve sticking. I doubt it would be suitable for auto engines.

I am curious why you think that it is hard to find additives for synthetics? I am not aware of any reason to not use any particular additive.
 
nm9stheham said:
Well, Linkite is the stuff used in small aircraft engines to prevent valve sticking. I doubt it would be suitable for auto engines.

I am curious why you think that it is hard to find additives for synthetics? I am not aware of any reason to not use any particular additive.
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Besides, where is it written that you have to use a synthetic oil?
 
I am bringing my very limited jet set and just maybe you'll wake up to find me in you driveway if I do make the trip this summer LOL !
I live on an Island and most everything is a chore to find in our parts stores .I'll see what DusterGlen can source for me if he ever stops slacking and goes back to work next week .
I run synthetic because that is what the engine builder told me to run and it's got me 25k miles so far with only a bad set of rockers and a bad choice of drivers so far eh lol ! The fella that proved his kickdown setup will function at 95mph was probably a bad choice eh , it worked fine but upshifting at 100+ mph equals a bit many rpm for second gear .
For the record I'm not crazy about the price or thinness of synthetics but it does work even if it can be hard to keep from seeping .
 
Price aside, there is no comparison between a true synthetic and non-sysnthetic. The wear protection properties are phenomenonally better: I have lost a a turbo oil line while racing, and the pressure stated fluctuating to zero; I kept hammering it for 2 miles. By then the pressure stayed at ZERO and I backed off to 3/4 for the last 2 miles. Fixed the line and put in more oil and kept going. Tore down the engine after that race, and not a scratch on ANTTHING, I swear, and my son is my witness.

And the oxidation rate of the oil when you are racing with synthetics is trivial compared to non-synthetics.

The thinness is just typcial; it is far more stable over temperature, and will maintain that same viscosity to a high temp while non-synthetics will get thinner at high temp than the synthetic is at room temp. So don't let that fool you; at high temp, the synthetic's viscosity holds better.

Gong back to additives, again, I can't wee why to not add them to a synthetic, if it is something like Rislone. Did you know that Mobil1 is actually a highly refined petroleum oil?
 
Like I said they do work , the issue with the additives as I understand it is the base oil the additive is suspended in , I could be way off base but I know I have seen the Lucas treatment for synthetic while driving on the mainland but the suppliers don't stock the local shelves with it here on the island . I generally run the 15-50 and only run the pure synthetics never the blended stuff , I am currently using the Penzoil Platinum + which is a natural gas based synthetic only because it can be had in a 5 qt jug and found on sale , the mobil 1 can only be found in that weight in the Extended Performance formula and even then only in single quart bottles at about 20 buck a piece which with the disposal fee and taxes ends up being a 110 dollar oil change with filter , the Pennzoil can be had for less than 1/2 that price in the bigger jugs .Quaker State also makes a 15-50 in their top of the line synthetic but I believe it is a Parafin base , I have used the quaker state and find it discolours real quickly which makes me wonder about it's lifespan . One thing to take into account is I will drive this 520hp stroker 5000km in 4 days and have gone 3600 in 36 hours stopping every 2 1/2 to 3 hours for fuel on the praires in 100F weather so I give these oils a heck of a test run .
 
Yeah that is good oil test! I only know of the components in the Mobil1 and some of the Exxon ketone synthetics. I'll have to learn up on the others.

JIMHO.... I tend to not ever use Lucas products. So can't comment on that one.

You live in a cool place. If I ever get there again, I'll find you and demand a ride up to Tofino LOL
 
What is the compression on the "dead" cylinder now?
 
sireland67 said:
What is the compression on the "dead" cylinder now?
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It came right back to the same as the rest 175 cold 190 hot , amazing what letting the exhuast valve close all the way can do for cylinder pressures eh !lol
 
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When it was built in Indio California the corrected hp and Tq #s were 519hp and 522tq using the 106 race fuel , It has a 10.2 to 1 CR so needless to say I am burning top grade fuel , here in BC I get Chevron 94 with zero ethanol but east of the Rockies it's usually Shell V Power 91 which is also ethanol free , I run that with the timing limited to 34 degrees until I get to Southern Onterrible were I can get PetroScams 94 with 10% ethanol .
 
Well that' a solid 100hp or better than my 367, which runs about 185psi; but............ I can run 87E10. Can, do, and always have,chuckle-chuckle...... After 100,000 miles I mightof saved enough cash for a freshening; maybe as much as $1400Can.
Have a safe trip.
 
Thanks , won't be till August and even then I have to get some long runs around the island in before I go for it again . The Fuel deal has become a real challenge , the first year I carried 2 twenty litre jugs in the trunk and the last 4 times I tried it I carried 3 jugs and the last time I had to fill the tank with regular and dump a couple of bottles of Octane Booster in to get me to the next place with Supreme , that Octane Booster is a cruel joke at best and every year the stations get fewer and farther between , might carry 4 or 5 of the pure 94 to mix with whatever I find on that stretch across Northern Onterrible .
 
Oh that's gotta hurt!
Well, that's the thing about my smaller engine. With a 223 cam and double OD (that I was running in the early 2000s) she would go over 500 miles to a tank,lol,so that's like 3 tankfuls from Victoria to somewhere just inside Ontario. And I know,you know, your car only needs maybe 50 hp to cruise 65/75 on the prairies.And if I needed to pass, I could downshift up to 6 times,lol. First-over got me 60@6400.
But I don't run that combo anymore.Bigger cam now and fewer gears. And forget about fuel-economy.
I built the engine with the idea that if I needed/wanted more power I'd just bolt on the Nos. But,after the tune was in, I never felt the need for it. An 11/1 360 is a surprising powerhouse. At least I thought so.
Oh man,that's gotta hurt.
Probably cheaper to fly.
 
Cheaper to fly but not any fun , the NOS idea was also in the background of my build as well , Brian {IMM}ran this same combo with a 150 plate kit for a couple of years in his Duster . Throw the bottle on set the tune and run 10.20 all day . I had him do a little extra work on the heads on top of his basic clean up and that got me the extra 35 hp and tq over his CarQuest package so with a taller rear gear and a 150 kit I'm sure I could at least match that . I have also thought about the Gear Vendors package but it's so expensive now it's hard to justify. I only make 1 long trip a year the rest is around town , with the 3:23 it isn't the worst fuel mileage I've ever owned , It's more like a Semi in that it's all about hours not speed , the year I drove it home doing 3600km in 36 hours I crossed Manitoba and Sask at night doing 80-90 mph so 130-150 kmh , 3 hours burned almost 50 litres so about 12 litres per 100 km . 3hrs east of Thunder Bay to Merrit BC was @435 litres x $1.45 so @ $625 add a hundred on each end for the rest of that trip and it still wasn't too bad , running super rich it cost me @ $1100 1 way last trip . Air Canada is over $600 one way and worse than having teeth pulled .
 
PS 65-75 on the prairies ? you would get steamrollered by Semi's in Sask at those speeds , you gotta do 80 just to go with the flow most of the time lol .
 
You won't catch me speeding after I heard a local guy here in MB say it cost him over $360 for "a little over". No; but you might catch me spinning tires unnecessarily, or cornering too aggressively, or sliding, which they call loss of vehicular control. I'd like to say hop in officer,let's see how out of control I can get this thing, and then maybe you'll reconsider that ticket.
But I draw the line at speeding.They just want to take our licenses away for what seems like any/every little thing now,lol.

But 12liters/100km ain't too bad, the way you were pushing it. My math says that's 23.5 mpg Canadian;18.8mpgUS. Hyup that's better than pretty good. A stock teener would have a hard time matching that at just legal speeds,lol.
 
Yep the downside is it will burn that much fuel in that much time at just about any speed so 3 hours could go down to 240 km at Onterrible limits which gets pretty expensive . I have been very fortunate on the speeding deal I have been able to do 10 over pretty regularly everywhere I go and have even had Cops wave at me in a downward slow down motion rather than pull me over , being big old and kinda looking like an off duty cop has it's perks I guess lol !
 
Also a trick I use to install pushrods. Get a piece of coathanger, straighten it out and slide it between the pushrods and the valley side of the rocker pedestals. This holds the pushrods out enough to sit in the rocker arms, then install the rocker shafts. When the shafts are on pull the coat hanger out. I've had them sit on the side of the lifter cone also.
 
furrystump said:
Also a trick I use to install pushrods. Get a piece of coathanger, straighten it out and slide it between the pushrods and the valley side of the rocker pedestals. This holds the pushrods out enough to sit in the rocker arms, then install the rocker shafts. When the shafts are on pull the coat hanger out. I've had them sit on the side of the lifter cone also.
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Good tip I'll try to remember it for next time .
 
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