Yeah, that’s kind of how they work. I hate the damn things with a passion.
Camshafts and Compression
- Thread starter Valman
- Start date
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Yeah, that’s kind of how they work. I hate the damn things with a passion.
Rhoads lifters flat out work, in fact IMO if you're using a hydraulic camshaft for street or strip that's what to use.
6500 rpm is a breeze with the right spring.
If that fails, I'd just stick a solid lifter on a hydraulic shaft. lol BTDT
PS if the valvetrain doesn't sound like a sewing machine at idle they aren't set right
Agreed, if you could keep the benefits of a large cam for power and gain back some street manners don't really see the down side. Saves you from making a compromised choice or at least a lesser one.
The only 'problem' with Rhoads lifters is the perception that they will restore duration & lift as rpm increases because the lifters have less time to bleed down. The problem is that the groove down the side of the inner piston that promotes low speed bleed down....is still there bleeding down the lifter at higher rpms. Depending on many variables such as internal lifter clearances, oil viscosity, spring pressure, rocker ratio etc, the full lift & duration might NEVER be restored. With some combos, this might be a HP benefit, others a HP loss.
With the V-Max, that's not entirely true, as they can be adjusted to work like a standard hydraulic lifter.
Exactly. Even though it has double springs, still doesn’t collapse the lifter. Cranking down on the rocker adjuster WILL strip the thread. Ended up pulling the intake off and the rocker shafts
Bled off all the lifters, reinstalled, set them up for 0.012’’. Should tighten up to about 0.010’’ when hot. 0.010’’ is minimum.
This should give 7-8 degrees reduction in duration, and drop the same 0.012’’ off the valve lift.
Did a few calc’s, if all goes well, I should be back to around 185-190psi cranking pressure.
This should give 7-8 degrees reduction in duration, and drop the same 0.012’’ off the valve lift.
Did a few calc’s, if all goes well, I should be back to around 185-190psi cranking pressure.
Very possible, but after taking these apart the clearance between the shell and inner piston is really close. The oil seal was tight pulling the piston out, even with the groove.
Different situation in a running engine of course, but they seem to hold their position.
I couldn’t bleed them assembled by hand, I wasn’t game to squeeze them in the vice..
They remind me of a dirt / MC bike front fork system. With the flow control / emulator in them.
Man, that’s a sweet old bike! Any old big bore two-stroke is awesome.
I have the emulators in my bike as well, they transformed the suspension in all conditions. The Rhoads lifters look like they work a similar way.
That looks like Woodland. My brother and I both raced there. My brother way more than me because he did the vintage stuff on a 1980 440.
With that many threads showing you’ve lost enough ratio to cost .040 lift or a bit more.
I think you should call Rhoads and get their opinion. With that many threads showing, it appears the lifters are staying collapsed some. If that's the case, and you adjust the rockers with the lifters collapsed, when they pump up, bad things are gonna happen.
The lifter has to be bottomed out initially to make the adjustment with the feeler gauge under the roller.
Then open the valve slightly with the adjuster. Back off until the feeler gauge slides. The install notes say that the lifter should be down in the shell after the adjustment.
Washugal MX track
PRH
Well-Known Member
If this pic is showing where the adjuster screws were(right), to where they are with the correct lifter preload(left), then they were waaay off.
That change should result in a noticeable difference in running duration, and will probably show up on a cranking pressure test too.
That change should result in a noticeable difference in running duration, and will probably show up on a cranking pressure test too.
I know exactly how they work. I recommended you call Rhoads to get their opinion. Carry on sir and good luck.
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