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I used a hole saw to get the corners rounded... I tacked the back where i cut into the bottom support. It's got a bit of wobble on the long side of the cuts but has not been an issue for years now...

looks good - cant wait to see the rest of the progress

yes the inner metal hides alot of it - and the fuzz snaps right over them - after that they are easy to get out

they face the window.

inside - under the felt ( that clips on ) there are 3 or 4 screws

I talked to them at Carlisle - They showed me pix of the molds and should be getting the first PRE-PRODUCTION run in a few weeks - they are in progress, bt they said it could be months before it is available, FYI

why would you do that when he even stated POR was the winner? "Though there are small breaches in the POR, there is not the substantial rust creep where the scribe line has been placed. All samples have been scraped with a finger nail, and here you see the results."

i've had them for over 3 years now and they are holding up well. & Grinder has my information correct, except my name...lol I had rally wheels on the car for about 10-12 years - it was time for a change.

No problem and thanks!! That book helped me out alot.

get this.. its the best 14 bux you will spend... http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=1638&itemType=PRODUCT

that is behind the headlight bucket... if you are serious about fixing it, and I'd use a hammer and dolly myself, I'd remove the headlight bucket, DRILL the spotwelds, and it will be ALOT easier!

use a fresh air respirator if at any way possible.... icyosynates will kill you...

do it with the urethane.... modern technology and things like brake fluid and oil, will have less of an effect onit...

and hes got about 8000 more pix of that project...lol thats alot of words!

i agree with dgc333 - epoxy primer and surfacer.... and sand away till its streight!

i use plastic shower caps to cover my scoop, but i dont think you could use the same for the six pack scoop, but you sure can try something...

try djm, or dmj off torresdale, right behind holemsburg prision inthe industial park, they were good quality parts I had done there, about 6 years ago, and had a lower price, and less turnaround time then torresdale. I went with them for the turnaround time, and thier product was 1st class...

what I do on my fneders... coat entire back with por 15 after sandblasting... "band" in the color I am painting the car.. i'd say you really need some rust prevention back there for any type of street vehicle.

cherry hill is 15 minutes from the show.. hope ya can make it!

so should we be looking for a bunch of guys in fatigues??

berlin and atco are next to eachother, they are in camden county. both have good burnouts when everyone leaves... deinately worth the trip

cool!

well, theres a few shows I help run around SJ that ya might be interested in... berlin nj aug 19th - berlin chrysler plymouth mopar show...100 mopars sept 9th atco nj Mopar Car B Que, 250+ mopars www.moparcarbque.com comon down....!

i'm in Atco, NJ....

either way, as long as you can get to the rusted out part... have time? look at our first attempt at semi - major rust repair... joe's dart... http://www.abodyjoe.com/pictures/dart/

I AGREE! with a donor piece, or some bending skills, a mig welder and a grinder you can fix er right up!

i doubt the police have a handle on weather or not 72's had any kinda marker lights, and if one was so versed in mopar lighting, i doubt they would give you a hard time about it...

i agree! i took my badges, antenna and plymouth letters off ym car, i like it better, but mine dont have sidemarkers, 66, its your car...

lol...