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Probably ought to at least check it. Shoot for 5 to 7 degrees down on a bracket car, on a street car a little shallower.

I think I'll just move this down a bit for reference of course. Ok, lets say you have a 9 inch housing and a Dana housing. 9 Inch- A nodular iron center with spool and gears ready to bolt in, costs $1295-$1355 through Moser. Add the price of Axels from Moser $315 and wheel bearings...

Ok, lets say you have a 9 inch housing and a Dana housing. 9 Inch- A nodular iron center with spool and gears ready to bolt in, costs $1295-$1355 through Moser. Add the price of Axels from Moser $315 and wheel bearings and 1/2 in. studs, $100. $1750-$1810 bare minumum for a reliable 9in...

For the price/vs. money spent you can't beat the Dana 60. The 9 inch has a ton of options but at quite a cost. And beside, we are running Mopars here, what is more cool than a Dana showing from the back?

I recently serviced my transmission after 500+ runs using Type F, there was no abnormal wear, and I only replaced the steels and clutches because i was there. I have never lost a set of clutches using type F. I have never had a band failure either. If I were to switch types of fluid would I see...

I agree. There are a lot more neutral balance converters to choose from and you won't have to mess with welding on weights.

Sounds about right for a loose converter. I used to chirp the tires at every shift with a 2500 conv. then i switched to a psycho 9 inch and a hotter motor in my 340 car and the firm shifts at low rpm's got real soft. Stand on the gas though and it was a totally different story. Stand on it and...

A good converter for this package would be in the 2200-2400 range. Unless there is another problem with ignition or carburation then this should cure the problem. Does the problem exist only when you put in gear at idle? And then run fine once you get moving? If it does then the converter is a...

What was done to the engine when it was rebuilt? If a cam with more duration and lift was installed it may need a higher stall converter. I have seen stock converters behind hotter than stock motors do exactly what you are describing.

Either 3.55's or 3.73's will be fine. Setting up gears is not all that difficult... if you have done it a few times. If you haven't it can be tough. If you make a mistake setting pinion depth and backlash those $200 gears will turn to junk real fast or be very noisy at the least. Don't...

Type F

That is a tough one. They must be out there but don't know where to find one. Mancini has billet ones available but yesterday would be out of the question. You may have to upgrade to a 7290 yoke and run a 7260/7290 u-joint. That way if you ever upgrade you drive shaft you'll already have the...

On each side of the drain plug on stock converter.... i think

I'd buy a case just to be on the safe side then you'll have a few spare quarts.

Yes they will interchange. If you can swap a sure-grip between all cases made , should be able to with a spool too.

This is one of those questions that gets many different answers. So many different poeple and manufactures have different preferences that sometimes I wonder if it really matters what type of fluid you run. I use type F out of habit, because it is cheap, and because i'm getting several hundred...

Just talked to a friend that used to work on an Ed Hamburger Super Stock car. He said they ran it back in the 70's. He now runs a 500 inch bracket car with a fully rollerized trans. with aluminum drums and still runs type F(now called FA). I've been running it since the late eighties.

One thing I forgot to mention about the CSI shield is the tabs on the bellhousing area must be trimmed off the transmission to use the shield. This may or may not be a problem for you but you may not be able to use a factory column shifter. I have a modified case if you need pictures to see...

I switched from a blanket to a CSI composite shield and couldn't be happier with the choice. The trans runs cooler because it doesn't wrap all the way around, fits tight floorboards,changing fluid and filter is much easier, and gives an overall much neater appearance under the car. They also are...

Yup. They had a narrower housing, small bolt pattern axels, and narrower brakes .

I got this "tip" from a Mopar Action magazine article ten or fifteen years ago. They claimed it is the same or very similar to the $5.00+ a quart racing fluid you see advertised. I don't know if it is same or not but I've been using it ever since in my racecars with outstanding reliability and...

Car Quest type F

Looks like a handy tool. Didn't know they existed, sure beats removing the pan and valve body.

Remove the pan and valve body then pop the old one out with with a screw driver,reinstall by tapping in new one with the correct sized seal driver or socket.