I have just finished repairing / rebuilding a Vacuum Heater Control Switch from my friends 1964 Plymouth Fury.
I thought I would share my How To.
View attachment HeaterSwitchRebuild.pdf
Links to Rebuilding Push Button Switches
"Touchy" business Part 1: http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/images/Touchy1.jpg
"Touchy" business Part 2: http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/images/Touchy2.jpg
This Heater Control Vacuum Switch is from a 1964 Plymouth Fury.
This procedure should work on most switches.
Pop Rivets and JB Weld were used to repair this damaged switch with three broken vacuum ports.
The second port of the top row is barely hanging on.
Switch after carefully removing plastic buttons that secure the top plate/cover to the switch body by using an Exacto knife.
After the buttons are removed carefully work the blade of the knife between the top plate/cover and main body of the switch and pry them apart.
The broken ports on the top plate/cover need to be carefully trimmed down to an even with surface, then sanded to a rough finish.
Sand the flange portion of the pop rivet to a rough surface.
The sanding of the top plate/cover and the pop rivets is to help the JB Weld hold better.
After the fact, I would have also drilled small (1/16)holes next to each broken port.
The holes would serve to anchor the JB Weld the top plate/cover. Any JB Weld that came thru into the vacuum slide area would have to be removed/smoothed so that the slide would work.
The barrel of 1/8 X ¼ long aluminum pop rivets is used for the replacement ports.
Before doing any work with the JB Weld Strip about 4 lengths of small (22gauge) wire. The number of wires need will depend on how many ports need to be replaced.
22 gauge copper telephone inside wire was used here. It is small enough to pass thru the small vacuum ports of the switch.
Fold the wires in half and run them thru from the under/inside of the ports to be replaced.
Mix a small amount of JB Weld and use a sharp pointed toothpick to apply a small bead around the bottom of the pop rivet(s). If holes have been drilled into the top plate/cover force the JB Weld thru them.
Then slide the rivet(s) over the wire(s) to the surface of the top plate/cover.
A small electronic perforated circuit board was used here to help clamp/hold the rivets in place. A small piece of cardboard could be used also. If cardboard is used, punch small holes for the wires and test fit
ahead of time.
Feed the wires thru holes that are spaced close to the port spacing. (Test fit this before applying the JB Weld) Then twist the wires together to help clamp/hold the rivets in place.
After the JB Weld has started to cure some and is holding the rivets (15-20 minutes), remove the perf board and carefully slide the wire back and forth in the rivet/hole to make sure it is not blocked by the JB Weld.
Let the JB Weld cure overnight.
Then mix a small amount of JB Weld and using a sharp pointed toothpick apply the mixture around and slightly over the flange (s) of the rivet(s) and let cure before reassembly of the switch.
Once the JB Weld is cured, place the top plate/cover onto the main body of the switch over the pins.
Use a 5/64 bit and very, very carefully drill the center of each pin to a depth of about ½. Be extremely careful to keep the drill straight and square in all directions to keep from drilling thru the sides of the switch body.
Once the holes are drilled, use a #4 X 40 tap and tap treads in all of the holes.
Stainless steel panhead hex #4 X 40 X ¾ machine screws shortened to ¼ were used to secure the top plate/cover to the switch body.
Before assembly, lubricate the inside of the vacuum port area and the rubber slide as well as the three switch slides with white lithium grease.
Lubricate and re assemble the push buttons and slides into the switch body.
Carefully assemble the top plate/cover to the switch body and secure with the pan head screws.
The repaired switch is now ready for use.
I hope this is of some help ,