Got an 83 Ram Charger with a 440 today!

[Button]

Well today I traded my 72 D100, slant-6, 3 on the tree, for an 83 Ram Charger with a 440/727 auto. I was sad to see the 72 drive down the street but was excited to start a new project that will have more street appeal. Once again, a lot of elbow grease started with a thorough wash, wipe, tire shine, window tint removal (it looked horrible). This is an ex-Borger Patrol truck. That brush guard and rear bumper are the next to go. What does everyone think?

 

[sr71mopar]

Very cool. Looks super clean.

 

[nothingbutdarts]

Looks killer clean! Two wheel drive though??

 

[Badart]

Looks very clean and straight. Now you just need a 4 wheel drive donor. Do a shackle flip on the back and get the front up in the air and get some 35's. You should check out Ramchargercentral.com

 

[Button]

Clean and straight was a definite plus! But 2 wheel-drive is what I was wanting. Looking for something of a street-rod / pro-street look eventually. Something like the white Ram Charger but I want the tire sizes that are on this orange chevy, (rears are 29X12.50-15 and fronts are 245X60-15).

 

[Button]

I have attached two pictures of the pump with its small block brackets still attached as well as the pulley.
The dat pad on the front of the block said the following and I decoded it accordingly, 6T440 TE (at top of pad) and 12 3 (at bottom of pad).
6= 1976
T= Trenton plant
440= eng size
T= truck
E= cast crank
12= December
3= 3rd of month

Also got the following cast numbers off of the passenger side/bottom of the block; 9 25 75 (first line), 4006630-440-7 (second line), and just below all this was, DN. Any ideas what all this means? I'm thinking the block was cast on Sept 25, 1975, and was then assembled 3 December 1976? The guy said it came from a 77 motorhome.

 

[RPM]

Looks nice and clean. I like the dogs on the wheels. That 440 would kill the deal around here though with emission laws. Hope they are not near as bad where you are.

-RPM

 

[73_Dart]

Very nice looking RC. I looked at a 2-wheel drive here recently. I was going to buy it but the deal fell through. I like the idea of a 2wd RC. Have fun with that 440 in it. Thats what my plans were for the one i was planning on getting.

 

[cudamark]

I have attached two pictures of the pump with its small block brackets still attached as well as the pulley.
The dat pad on the front of the block said the following and I decoded it accordingly, 6T440 TE (at top of pad) and 12 3 (at bottom of pad).
6= 1976
T= Trenton plant
440= eng size
T= truck
E= cast crank
12= December
3= 3rd of month

Also got the following cast numbers off of the passenger side/bottom of the block; 9 25 75 (first line), 4006630-440-7 (second line), and just below all this was, DN. Any ideas what all this means? I'm thinking the block was cast on Sept 25, 1975, and was then assembled 3 December 1976? The guy said it came from a 77 motorhome.

You're info looks good. The D/N is for Day or Night shift. There should be an arrow pointing toward one or the other. I think the valve covers have been changed. I believe all the '76-up 440's had the tall covers and usually with a heat shield on the exhaust side. If you're thinking of changing the carb, take a good look at that stock intake too. They're really prone to cracking. The most common spot is the web between the secondaries but also check the EGR passages. A crack in the secondaries is not a problem until it migrates down through the floor of the intake. Then the engine will run rough, lean, and hot. Of the 200+ 440 thermoquad intakes I've magged, I've only found 3 that weren't cracked! Of course we're burning that eco-piss oxygenated fuel here in Ca. that raises the exhaust temps 40 degrees so that is to be expected I guess. Gee, I wonder why we're cracking exhaust manifolds??? :banghead:

 

[Button]

Here is the block area where the pump should mount. Do all the big blocks use the same pumps? If so I will try and find one out at the local wrech-a-part. I've also included 4 shots of the carb/intake. When the truck is started it idles very high and will not kick down. Takes a lot of pumping of the peddle to gt started, especialy when cold. While in gear it surges and only runs half decent when your in the throttle.

 

[4flats]

Looks Great! I had an '85 a few years back (actually built it for my wife) it was 2wd, but she wanted something that looked meaner, so I lifted it abot 2" and fit 31" mudkings under it. It had a 360 and I also turned the duals out in front of the rear tire. Dual exhaust took it from 7 to 10 mpg. We eventually sold it because it was eating us out of house and home, but at least I sold it for more than I had in it!

 

[Button]

Well this afternoon I was able to remove the front brush guard. It had obviously been on since new because those bolts were a pain to break loose. It was pretty heavy and even though the truck has a heavy duty front and rear suspension, the nose did appear to raise slightly. I also removed the faded and peeling window tint from the driver side rear window panel. Looks much better with the clean windows.

 

[redlined]

I spy a broken off bolt on the EGR block off plate. May have a vac leak.

 

[gpreston57]

Both rides are nice, sure like that 72 tho...

 

[Button]

I spy a broken off bolt on the EGR block off plate. May have a vac leak.

I did'nt see the bolt initially, just held the camera up over the motor. I'll take a closer look Wednesday.
Some items I want to address right away are as follows;

1 The Hedman headers use a "ball & socket" connection with a 3 bolt flange. Who makes a good direct bolt on muffler tat conncts this way? The cobbled together Flowmaster 40's are ugly and way to loud!

2. Headers need gaskets, they leak badly.

3. Valve covers need gaskets as they too leak badly, especially on the passenger side at the back.

4. Carb is a piece of crap, need a replacement.

5. Then of course all normal items to flush and replace with an engine of this type.

 

[redlined]

A/C big block trucks use a double groove water pump pulley, and an idler pulley mounted to the PS brackets. Idler on the outside groove, and PS on the inside. Alt-A/C routed the same as a small block. Factory added the second belt/idler to pull the seven blade fan used on A/C trucks.

A double groove WP pulley and matching crank pulley should allow factory routing of the PS belt using A/C equipped brackets, you'd have to realign the alternator to the outside groove since you're not running A/C.

Non A/C trucks may have used the same PS brackets, and different alt brackets as described, only seen one, that was thirty years ago, can't remember.

 

[memike]

Congratulations Button :cheers: Like you I just need two wheel drive and finely found me another Ramcharger :happy10:. Good move and it's a big block :cheers:
Very happy for you Button :-D
I am building one also :-D

 

[memike]

Take a look at my thread on my 85 two wheel drive and my hood I built and cant wait to put it on it's first Ramcharger
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=116075

I liked your Truck allot, But I would have dun all I could to get that ramcharger8)

 

[mrbill00]

is the PVC hose (back of carb)not connected on purpose?

 

[PanGasket]

is the PVC hose (back of carb)not connected on purpose?

yeah, there's also another vacuum nipple on the side of the carb. You have a vacuum issue there buddy:toothy10:. Nice catch Button. Always like Ramchargers8)

 

[cudamark]

I think I'd ditch that flex fan and add a shroud to the radiator. Those flex fans are a grenade just waiting for the pin to fall out! You could also use the correct return springs on the carb and kickdown linkage along with the right washer and clip for the pin. A pretty gnarly looking kickdown link but if it's adjusted correctly, I guess it will work.

 

[Button]

The PCV hose was off the back of the carb on purpose. I'll have to check the other vac point. May head to the wrench-a-part yard shortly to see what I can find.

 

[Button]

Well I made it to the Wrench-A-Part this afternoon and man that place changes constantly! They have now laid asphalt cinder on all the lanes of traffic and are even trying to spread it between the cars. The MOPAR trucks were lined up a little tighter than before but I believe it is because they are rearranging the entire compound, moving all the 2000-10 vehicles to a special area.
There were three Ram Chargers and between the three I was able to pull the following for a total of $65.
- Chrome rear bumper and brackets
- Rubber gap filler between bumper and body
- rubber seal that goes clear around rear hatch, (it's LONG)
- chrome mirrors for both doors (replace the black ones on it now)
- mounting clips for stainless trim around large driver side window
- 3 interior lights for back area
- 2 wiper arms
- spare tire mount brackets
- two window cranks
- rubber nubs for fuel cap, (both were missing)
- battery hold down strap

In the next 3 days I plan to go back and get;
- a straight chrome front bumper
- blue windsheild visors
- tail-lights with chrome trim
- possibly windshield washer tank/pump

I walked that entire MOPAR truck area and not a single vehicle had a big block! All three Ram Chargers had 318's. If I remember correctly, the blue one was an 88 and the white one on the left was a 90.

When I head back there again, I hope to have more time so I can go check the MOPAR car section as well, however it usually doesn't have much except front-wheel-drive stuff.

 

[superbyrd]

this is my 85, but shes a 4by. fresh 400 BB/727 with 3.55 gears and sure-grip rear. mine has a comp XE268 cam,wieand intake,600 holley. i really enjoy mine,only downfall, she lllloooooooooves gas. i can easily count on both hands my fuel economy and still have fingers left over.lol. thats ok though,shes fun.

 

[omahamoparguy]

that Q-jet that is on there is actually a Mopar Q-jet. And it looks like it is from a 1985 360 equipped truck. (I can tell by the "torx" head fasteners on the top and the mopar linkage) Yes I agree that the rear pcv port on the back of the carb needs to be plugged up or hooked up. That would cause a GIANT vacuum leak. Also, the vacuum port that is under the fuel inlet, comin out of the base plate is for the EGR valve. The vacuum that is down low on the main casting in the front drivers side (kinda jus above the mixture screw) is for the vacuum advance. (EGR and distributor advance sources are the "ported" sources on the carb, dont use them for other accesories). Q jets can be made to rub quite well and can get you decent mileage. Also they are easier to get parts for than a thermoquad . JUs my .02 ( I kinda specialize in rebuilding them)