WOW! 4.25" Stroke Small Block Cranks now availavbe from BPE!

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Have not had much time lately, so not much to update - I have been collecting parts but as far as the bock goes - the 4 bolt mains are done.


The only PIA is the pro-gram supplied studs - if they had been setup for an allen head to run them down like the main studs it would save alot of time.

_DJV9175.jpg
 
DJVCUDA said:
Have not had much time lately, so not much to update - I have been collecting parts but as far as the bock goes - the 4 bolt mains are done.


The only PIA is the pro-gram supplied studs - if they had been setup for an allen head to run them down like the main studs it would save alot of time.

_DJV9175.jpg
Click to expand...

did you install them upside down lol... just kidding
 
LOL - i wish - but they are coarse thread into the block and fine thread for the bolts.
 
I like the idea of more cubes. You could probably get away alot cheaper by using a chevy rod and off the shelf chevy pistons since they sell that stuff at the local convenience store! Just a thought. That engine if it were me would not go together without some fully prepped and ported Indy 360-1 heads! The pro-gram caps look sweet but I don't like the idea of weakening the webbing to strengthen the caps. Seems it would in reality make it weaker and end up splitting the block at higher RPM use. A girdle would be my choice before drilling the webbing. JMO
 
Good points - but I did my homework prior to the build and the pistons that BPE put together with the anything kit are cheaper then anything else compared to other manufacturers. The pistons even come with pins and rings!

I dont have to worry about piston to valve issues, valve angles and spacing since I went with his pistons either - they are a drop in piece so far and a timesaver instead of trying to get there by the cheapest way possible I am trying to do this once and do it right.

as far as the -1 heads - I'll never deny that they dont make power, I'm sure i'll be happy with the port work from RyanJ and the numbers that this thing will make. I have the bottom end done so I can upgrade to any head I want in the future since this thing will take whatever I throw at it!

Concerning me splitting the block - you know this is an X block right? There is more meat ( 30 more pounds heavier then a stock block ) in the oil pan rails and main webbing made specifically for adding 4 bolt mains. The stock block I would agree - but not a factory race block. The block has been around since the 70's and has been having 4 bolt mains added since then - girdles - not so much...

WHile I cant confirm or deny the help of the girdle - the 4 bolt main setup is a proven setup in my application and I will not chance a girdle ( has anyone actually proven they will help? MRL's setup that just came out is the only one that might do something but aside from that there is no data - just sales hype that i have seen.
 
DJVCUDA said:
Good points - but I did my homework prior to the build and the pistons that BPE put together with the anything kit are cheaper then anything else compared to other manufacturers. The pistons even come with pins and rings!

I dont have to worry about piston to valve issues, valve angles and spacing since I went with his pistons either - they are a drop in piece so far and a timesaver instead of trying to get there by the cheapest way possible I am trying to do this once and do it right.

as far as the -1 heads - I'll never deny that they dont make power, I'm sure i'll be happy with the port work from RyanJ and the numbers that this thing will make. I have the bottom end done so I can upgrade to any head I want in the future since this thing will take whatever I throw at it!

Concerning me splitting the block - you know this is an X block right? There is more meat ( 30 more pounds heavier then a stock block ) in the oil pan rails and main webbing made specifically for adding 4 bolt mains. The stock block I would agree - but not a factory race block. The block has been around since the 70's and has been having 4 bolt mains added since then - girdles - not so much...

WHile I cant confirm or deny the help of the girdle - the 4 bolt main setup is a proven setup in my application and I will not chance a girdle ( has anyone actually proven they will help? MRL's setup that just came out is the only one that might do something but aside from that there is no data - just sales hype that i have seen.
Click to expand...

We'll I was reading this whole thread from my Iphone at my daughters dance competition this weekend....
I did not see that it was an X Block. I can see now that I am home that the webbing is alot thicker than a stock block. That is good to know and I hear you on the Data regarding the Girdle, it does seem to be a sales Hype/Pitch. I was just voicing my opinions on doing the drilling on a stock block vs a girdle. I would still go girdle if it was a stock block.

Seems that you have done your homework and this will turn out to be a very nice build. Upgrade the heads later and you will have a serious NA engine with some torque for sure.

I will be using this 4.25" Crank on my next engine.
 
ever see those bed plates onthe 4.7 mopar motors or even toyota supra motors? they exemplify what the girdle is " trying" to do - to make all the main caps one soild unit - but having to back engineer a piece to make it even close to them is impossible IMO -

could you tell i was wound up thins morning... the crap weather made for a long drive into work today...lol
 
Thanks for all the info and pics, DVJ. That is going to be an awesome bullet and you are doing it the right way. Any HP and Torque numbers that you are aiming for? At any rate, your drivetrain should groan when that beast is installed!
 
no problem - as long as there is interest i'll keep posting -

for whatever reason the thread started as a heads up and wound up as my build...lol

The HP numbers - i'd like 600 but doubt it.... so I'll be surprised if i get there.

The engine will be dyno'd with a few changes to see how things react to the extra cubes.
 
Did you mention what heads and cam you're going to be using?
With some good heads and the right cam, 600HP should be easy. With all you have into it so far, X-block, etc, might as well go all out on the heads and cam.
 
i'm eventually going with an eddy head ported by RyanJ - i got a larger intake valve etc to work with a big solid roller.

I didnt want to go exotic with the heads, and it will ultimately cost me hp - but i can always upgrade down the road
 
DJV, keep on posting!!!!!

Oh, then at the end, a summmuray of parts.
 
I'll send A body Joe over with some swill and wings and a blonde to take dictaion.....
 
Why N/A? If I were going all 9yards I'd do a R3 block semi filled with a 8-71 blower, mpfi and a 100 shot of nitrous. That would be SWEAT!!! Still a very cool build though. The only thing that I'd be woried about is piston speed and rock as well as rod ratio, especially w/ a 4.25.

Whats the estimated flow on the eddys fully ported? 2.08in valve?

Subscribed :thumbrig:
 
mopar4x4stroker said:
Why N/A? If I were going all 9yards I'd do a R3 block semi filled with a 8-71 blower, mpfi and a 100 shot of nitrous. :thumbrig:
Click to expand...

With that stroke a -50cc piston would be required, to keep the CR blower friendly.

And a Roots style blower cant use MPFI. The fuel must come from above the blower to keep the rear bearings lubed and cool.
 
DJVCUDA said:
Good points - but I did my homework prior to the build and the pistons that BPE put together with the anything kit are cheaper then anything else compared to other manufacturers. The pistons even come with pins and rings!

I dont have to worry about piston to valve issues, valve angles and spacing since I went with his pistons either - they are a drop in piece so far and a timesaver instead of trying to get there by the cheapest way possible I am trying to do this once and do it right.

as far as the -1 heads - I'll never deny that they dont make power, I'm sure i'll be happy with the port work from RyanJ and the numbers that this thing will make. I have the bottom end done so I can upgrade to any head I want in the future since this thing will take whatever I throw at it!

Concerning me splitting the block - you know this is an X block right? There is more meat ( 30 more pounds heavier then a stock block ) in the oil pan rails and main webbing made specifically for adding 4 bolt mains. The stock block I would agree - but not a factory race block. The block has been around since the 70's and has been having 4 bolt mains added since then - girdles - not so much...

WHile I cant confirm or deny the help of the girdle - the 4 bolt main setup is a proven setup in my application and I will not chance a girdle ( has anyone actually proven they will help? MRL's setup that just came out is the only one that might do something but aside from that there is no data - just sales hype that i have seen.
Click to expand...
Yeah girdles work. I've seen and used them to on the old 5.0 fords to keep the block from splitting with too much power. I like them a lot
 
Somewhere along the way some of you guys got the impression that DJV is building his engine with a 4.250" stroke. He is using one of my 4.125" stroke cranks. Just wanted to clear up any confusion.

Rod
 
UPDATES on the 4.250 crank from ROD -

Please keep in mind this is from Rod and not my build

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I've had several questions concerning clearance issues that
may be encountered using the BPE 4.250" stroke crank. I mocked
one up in a +.030" 340 block using both the Compstar 6.200" and
Oliver 6.200" rod.

A mile to the pan rail.

6600259-BPE4.250OEMBlock003.jpg



Compstar rod will require minimal clearancing at the bottom of the bore(4.070") for rod bolt.

6600261-BPE4.250OEMBlock001.jpg


As does the Oliver.

6600262-BPE4.250OEMBlock005.jpg


Clearance to the oil pump and Milodon pick-up was checked with both
rods in standard and HV Melling 72 oil pumps. Over .100" in all instances.
6600266-BPE4.250OEMBlock017.jpg


Not a concern with this block but, something else to check for.......to the dipstick boss.

6600274-BPE4.250OEMBlock018.jpg
 
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