**600hp sbm block limit? Or is it bs!!**

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FWIW I have only seen pics of 2 blocks that were cracked. One had a crack in the cylinder and one had a crack from a head bolt hole to water. Over on racemagnum, we had a few threads talking about it and someone finally showed a pic of the cylinder crack. I suspect it was a casting issue not so much as a block problem. I am also a believer that the factory block can hold alot more power than the magic "600hp" mark
 
I ran my 360 that was in my Duster for 3 1/2 years before I tore it down to check everything and add some power. At 529Hp from my dyno, it looked great. No cap walk, nothing. It was hard blocked and I took care of it, but it was foot braked.

Added 30HP to the engine by upping compression .75, larger FT cam, and a 1000HP carb over my old 950. Foot braked it for a few passes then went transbrake/2 step. I put less than half as many passes on that engine as the first and upon teardown there was MASSIVE cap walk!
I was really surprised. I never mixed fuel, always ran VP110 fresh in the 5gal cans. I attributed the cap walk to the transbrake/2 step and having to launch such a heavy (3320lbs with me) car.

I've also seen a block from a 550HP bracket deal with a cracked main after 300+ runs. That's all I've seen personally so it looks like since I've seen very few failures that my not exist???? LOL!
 
I ran my 360 that was in my Duster for 3 1/2 years before I tore it down to check everything and add some power. At 529Hp from my dyno, it looked great. No cap walk, nothing. It was hard blocked and I took care of it, but it was foot braked.

Added 30HP to the engine by upping compression .75, larger FT cam, and a 1000HP carb over my old 950. Foot braked it for a few passes then went transbrake/2 step. I put less than half as many passes on that engine as the first and upon teardown there was MASSIVE cap walk!
I was really surprised. I never mixed fuel, always ran VP110 fresh in the 5gal cans. I attributed the cap walk to the transbrake/2 step and having to launch such a heavy (3320lbs with me) car.

I've also seen a block from a 550HP bracket deal with a cracked main after 300+ runs. That's all I've seen personally so it looks like since I've seen very few failures that my not exist???? LOL!

Couple Questions.....

1) What was that engine Revved to at launch on the brake & at the end of the track?
2) How was the bottom end set up, was it studded? or did you use a girdle?
3) Was it a Forged or Cast Crank?
4) What kind of Rods did you use?
 
Main studs and billet caps will go a long way to helping that crank live. Depending on what the useage is,either 1/2 or 3/4 groove bearings for the mains as well. Hard block is also another great idea.
 
Couple Questions.....

1) What was that engine Revved to at launch on the brake & at the end of the track?
2) How was the bottom end set up, was it studded? or did you use a girdle?
3) Was it a Forged or Cast Crank?
4) What kind of Rods did you use?

1. left at 3800 rpm and trapped at 7050 most times.
2. stock crank, arp studs, line honed, no girdle on either engine.
3. stock cast in mine and the other was forged Scat
4. mine were stock with bolts, the other was H beam
 
1. left at 3800 rpm and trapped at 7050 most times.
2. stock crank, arp studs, line honed, no girdle on either engine.
3. stock cast in mine and the other was forged Scat
4. mine were stock with bolts, the other was H beam

Great information. Thanks!
 

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So now you need to tell the details of what has been done to the block,compression,cam specs, boost level and power estimate. Is it a Stroked 318 with a 4" Crank and 4" bore??

Ok Mad Dart. 71 340 block 4.10 bore 3.8 strok mopar steel crank, pro gram splay 4bolt main cap wit stud, block fill up to top of freeze plugs. 2 top water holes n top of the block plug and 3/16 hole drill in them so mostt of the water cums thuw the back of the head. Cam comp cam 230-238 @50, 110CL, 113, 588-589 on a 1.6 rocker put in str8 up, i put a gear drive single wheel, compression 8.91 ross piston, eagle h-beam rod wit the high end rod bolt, Arp heads studs, 1.6 norris rocker batten w2 heads 2.08int 1.65ext valve, flow 303@500,315@600,321@700int-221@500,221@600,224@700. Indy squre port intake that fits the 360-1 heads. Most of my parts purchase from Hensley Race 865-947-0426 ask for Ken tell catfish told u to call. F1 procharger kit from THESUPERCHARGERSTORE 520-456-9706 ask for Bob tell him the same. We are looking to get 900+++++++ @ the flywheel, If i lift out anything just aks and i will tell dint mine helping out.
 
Hey guys, check out youtube, 417 mopar turbo dyno pull 1214hp, i think its done by Shady Dell speed shop in PA, drive safe, its gotta be a tough setup for that!
 
The aluminum batten w2 prochage motor is complete. Should dyno it na and then put the F1 on it or put the that bad ***** in the car and then dyno it? Wat do yall think?
 
Thanks Mad Dart for starting this thread (and all of your other inspirational/enviable build threads), you and everyone elses input has answered a lot of questions ive had about these blocks. I am still wondering a few things: Im kind of confused as to which direction to go with my engine. Currently, its a 408ci 360 block from 1975. I know its been discussed a bit but im still a bit unsure: is a magnum block on a level playing field with an older LA block strength wise?

Im thinking of picking a magnum block up from the u-pull it yard (b/c theyre abundant and cheap) and slowly building it with forged internals, H-beam rods, studding everything, and partially filling the jackets with block filler. From what ive heard the magnums cylinder walls are thinner than the LA, how true is this and would it be enough of a difference to want to stay away from the magnums? Id plan on running 800hp+ if i do go forward with buying a second block and building it up.
 
The Magnum blocks are just as good as any LA, and IMO less subject to casting core shift which is what really makes or breaks (pardon the pun) a stock block.
It's not an issue of survival for me. It's more of an issue of cost vs return. Take a core block - then clean it, mag it, sonic test it. If it passes those - then hard block it, fit the caps and studs, if you believe in them fit the girdle, align bore, align hone, clearance for the rods if needed, blueprint cylinder positions, bore, square deck, plate hone, modify the oil system, deburr. Then add in the cash for hard block, the caps, the studs, and the girdle. Total all that up and then look at the cost of a brand new machined block that has ultra thick decks, ultra thick bores, better main thicknesses and 4bolt caps, and a better oiling system. Are the benefits worth the difference in overall costs? Again, just my opinion, but if you're dropping the dollars associated with an engine package making that kind of power a matter of some hundreds more spent on a foundation that will allow the great parts to make maximmum power, and allow for refreshing, rebuilding, or enlargement just makes sense to me.
 
Thanks for seeding doubt in my mind.
Am I an asshole for buying an R-3 block ?
I am no where near wealthy , but I figured ( and this is why three years of stock piling and waiting had to happen ) that if I have a billet crank shaft and Crower rods , do I want to gamble with anything less than optimum ?
A stock block , with a half fill and caps and girdle etc. is a bandaid when there is a procedure that will cure any doubts.
Those who allude that this myth started with the good folks who sell R-3 blocks are clearly not in touch with Ma MoPar's non-existent performance marketing techniques.
I'd wager that 89.731 % of Chrysler / Fiat management think an R-3 is some kind of tax form.
Will the stock block break at 500 , 600 or 700 horses ?
I have no intention of finding out.
If your lasts , then well played , Sir.
I'm happy for you and wish you nothing but the best in time slips and life.
But , and many of my Canadian compadres may approve of this analogy , you don't see too many players in the NHL skating in Bauer Black Panthers.
They could............they don't.
Nuff said.
 
we will know 7/25/2012 will a stork block will hold up to 600+++++++++hp!!!!!!!!!!!
 

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