Street/Strip Dizzy Curve

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805moparkid

805moparkid

Slant and AFX Guy
Joined
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ok guys i have mine set up all in by 500rpm... it likes 28-30 adv, so it idles great and drives nice.

if i want more at the track i can go up or down with no issues...

what kinda curves do you guys run?
 
zac_F71 said:
so the timing is all in by 1,200rpm? seems kinda soon to me I guess
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its used to be all in by 1200 now its 500... at 1200 it was right on the edge of the curve so it would advance and then back off, in turn messing with the idle...

now at 500 its just basically a start retard... as soon as it fires its locked at what ever i time it to...

not alot of other options when it wants 28-30 @ idle and around the same for total lol
 
If that set up was any good everyone would do it, best of luck to you.
 
The early full advance u have at 500 is more than likely possible due to lower than desired cylinder pressure or chit loads of gear..lol

high stall automatics tend to want a faster advance cause the stalls r u in the 2800+ rpms which is well into the general 'all in by 2200-2400 rpm' that most people run as a custom curve and it's just slipping to that point anyhow..'not detonation prone' 'especially if the cyl pressure is on the lower side.
jmo
 
zac_F71 said:
I seen your build thread lol ya- do you have mechanical advance or vacuum?
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just mech

1wild&crazyguy said:
The early full advance u have at 500 is more than likely possible due to lower than desired cylinder pressure or chit loads of gear..lol

high stall automatics tend to want a faster advance cause the stalls r u in the 2800+ rpms which is well into the general 'all in by 2200-2400 rpm' that most people run as a custom curve and it's just slipping to that point anyhow..'not detonation prone' 'especially if the cyl pressure is on the lower side.
jmo
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lol well 4.88's might fall into that category... but cyl pressure was 160 if i remember but need to check again...



TXDart said:
Use to date a girl with those curves !!!
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giggidy
 
Everybody runs something different as a set up.For me the most my slant ever wanted was 23 degrees total.Bone stone stock electronic distributor.Vac advance disconected. The last 3 seasons I have been running 18 degrees total with a best pass of 13.43@98 mph. Greg with the "RUSTER" over on .org is running well over 30+ degrees and his car is liking it with runs in the high 12's at over 108 mph.
 
Darter6 said:
Everybody runs something different as a set up.For me the most my slant ever wanted was 23 degrees total.Bone stone stock electronic distributor.Vac advance disconected. The last 3 seasons I have been running 18 degrees total with a best pass of 13.43@98 mph. Greg with the "RUSTER" over on .org is running well over 30+ degrees and his car is liking it with runs in the high 12's at over 108 mph.
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how did you come up with your timing? just bumped it up till you lost MPH at the track?
 
That is how we started with the first engine. Test and tune runs. I tried to set it at the V8 spec of 34-36 degrees and couldn't get it out of the pits. (was with several chevy guys and they were scratching their heads.) so we backed it down to 30 then 27 then 25 till it quit breaking up at high rpm's and found the sweet spot at 23. The second engine was dyno tuned and the engine builder couldn't get over the fact that the engine didn't want alot of timing.(hemi guy) Again your results may vary this was just mine.
I asked Mike Jeffery about it and he responded that most may run 26-30 degrees but not more. It's a slant thing l guess
 
TONS of people run locked out timing. Meaning the timing is STATIC at a given advance and does NOT change. Mostly really hot street cars and race only cars. I don't understand your thoughts on calling your car "street/strip" all the time. It is clearly more of a race car now. Stop pussyfootin around with it and treat it that way. You're too far over the fence now to try and make it a street car. Sure, you can drive it on the street, but it is always gonna have that "light switch" type of acceleration that makes street driving all the time somewhat difficult. If you want it to run as fast and as quick as possible on the track.....and I know you do, make it a race car and be done with it. That might mean it runs best WITH locked out timing. It sounds to me from what you're describing that it has made a drastic improvement. I think you're doing it right. Do what WORKS for your combination. Not anybody else's.
 
Darter6 said:
That is how we started with the first engine. Test and tune runs. I tried to set it at the V8 spec of 34-36 degrees and couldn't get it out of the pits. (was with several chevy guys and they were scratching their heads.) so we backed it down to 30 then 27 then 25 till it quit breaking up at high rpm's and found the sweet spot at 23. The second engine was dyno tuned and the engine builder couldn't get over the fact that the engine didn't want alot of timing.(hemi guy) Again your results may vary this was just mine.
I asked Mike Jeffery about it and he responded that most may run 26-30 degrees but not more. It's a slant thing l guess
Click to expand...


This is exactly what Ed and I have been talking about......I suspected as much. Usually, when you get it running well, that's where it is regardless of WHERE it is......if that made sense. Doesn't really matter where people say it's "supposed" to be. Just time it where it works best.
 
Oh and Ed, remember bud.....you got a frigton of cam in that little motor. It's GONNA like a lot of initial timing. I suspect that 30 degrees is probably about right....
 
Darter6 said:
That is how we started with the first engine. Test and tune runs. I tried to set it at the V8 spec of 34-36 degrees and couldn't get it out of the pits. (was with several chevy guys and they were scratching their heads.) so we backed it down to 30 then 27 then 25 till it quit breaking up at high rpm's and found the sweet spot at 23. The second engine was dyno tuned and the engine builder couldn't get over the fact that the engine didn't want alot of timing.(hemi guy) Again your results may vary this was just mine.
I asked Mike Jeffery about it and he responded that most may run 26-30 degrees but not more. It's a slant thing l guess
Click to expand...

see those timing numbers are what i remember hearing...

StrokerScamp said:
TONS of people run locked out timing. Meaning the timing is STATIC at a given advance and does NOT change. Mostly really hot street cars and race only cars. I don't understand your thoughts on calling your car "street/strip" all the time. It is clearly more of a race car now. Stop pussyfootin around with it and treat it that way. You're too far over the fence now to try and make it a street car. Sure, you can drive it on the street, but it is always gonna have that "light switch" type of acceleration that makes street driving all the time somewhat difficult. If you want it to run as fast and as quick as possible on the track.....and I know you do, make it a race car and be done with it. That might mean it runs best WITH locked out timing. It sounds to me from what you're describing that it has made a drastic improvement. I think you're doing it right. Do what WORKS for your combination. Not anybody else's.
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lol SS. i just did the super light curve over locked out as kind of a start retard in effect. interestingly though it has never kicked back on the starter...
 
805moparkid said:
see those timing numbers are what i remember hearing...




lol SS. i just did the super light curve over locked out as kind of a start retard in effect. interestingly though it has never kicked back on the starter...
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This is a plea for information (help) from anyone who has run an engine with locked out timing (no advance in the distributor.)

Our engine is a low compression /6 engine (9:1) with a mild cam (210/210 degrees of duration at .050"-lift.) It's a race-only engine and is turbocharged; ergo the low compression.

Here's my question:

We plan on running 18 degrees of spark advance.... period. No vacuum or mechanical advance; just a distributor with the mechanical advance plate LOCKED and installled at 18 crankshaft degrees advance...

Is this going to cause the phenomenon known as "starter kick-back" or is 18 degrees not enough to cause that?

We have a sizeable, 600-cold cranking amp battery wired directly to a Mini starter.

It should have lots of cranking RPM, given the low compression ratio...

Still, I have never done this before, and wondered if someone who HAS experience with it, could tell me what we'll be up against with this :locked-plate" setup.

"Kickback," or no????

I can install a distributor with an advance curve to avoid this, if necessary, but would rather not, if I don't have to.

Any information will be appreciated!:blob:
 
Bill ,, Ya got me,(?) Not sure but have heard that some guys have a switch for ignition seperate from cranking. Meaning get it spinning first then hit the ignition switch to lite it off. I think this was for high compression engines and I am going back almost 40 years ago.(16 to 1 BB chevy) Now a days I'm sure someone like MSD will have a widget for what your trying to do.
 
Bill Dedman said:
This is a plea for information (help) from anyone who has run an engine with locked out timing (no advance in the distributor.)

Our engine is a low compression /6 engine (9:1) with a mild cam (210/210 degrees of duration at .050"-lift.) It's a race-only engine and is turbocharged; ergo the low compression.

Here's my question:

We plan on running 18 degrees of spark advance.... period. No vacuum or mechanical advance; just a distributor with the mechanical advance plate LOCKED and installled at 18 crankshaft degrees advance...

Is this going to cause the phenomenon known as "starter kick-back" or is 18 degrees not enough to cause that?

We have a sizeable, 600-cold cranking amp battery wired directly to a Mini starter.

It should have lots of cranking RPM, given the low compression ratio...

Still, I have never done this before, and wondered if someone who HAS experience with it, could tell me what we'll be up against with this :locked-plate" setup.

"Kickback," or no????

I can install a distributor with an advance curve to avoid this, if necessary, but would rather not, if I don't have to.

Any information will be appreciated!:blob:
Click to expand...

hey bill... this motor with 30* dosn't kick back when warm or cold... hell not even at 48 lol... i was trying to get the tab centered @ 30*
 
Darter6 said:
Bill ,, Ya got me,(?) Not sure but have heard that some guys have a switch for ignition seperate from cranking. Meaning get it spinning first then hit the ignition switch to lite it off. I think this was for high compression engines and I am going back almost 40 years ago.(16 to 1 BB chevy) Now a days I'm sure someone like MSD will have a widget for what your trying to do.
Click to expand...

That's a great idea! I'm just lazy enough though, to TRY it at 18 degrees with the OEM setup to see if that works, first.

Thanks a lot for your input; that will be my next step...:banghead:
 
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