Nice write up took me a few days to finish up the thread.. lots of changing in direction here... A few questions though:
I only changed direction when I ran into a wall. On this car I refused to put a scoop on it. The Carb & Carb Hat hit the hood, so that is where the changes started and I switched to EFI. There is a huge learning curve here and lots of information I share in detail about
why things happened and
How to avoid or over come them. There is a bunch of my time in this thread that I poured out so guys who want to attempt the same could do
HELLA easier than I did if they have the time, patients and skills to pull it off.
I have the first 3, but I have not pulled it off just yet....... haaaa:banghead:
1) Why did you decide on going with coil packs verses the dist that you had already mortified?
The distributor was modified after the fact. I started with a POS "FAST" Dual Sync Dizzy that did not work. Changed gears and Modified a Mopar Lean Burn Distributor. Reason I modified it was all Dual Sync Distributors have "Low tooth count wheels in them that will not send enough information to the MS3X which will cause a Sporadic Misfire. All this is explained in detail in the thread.
2) Talking with a few ppl in the know they advised going against the coil packs b/c they said something about picking up signals from motor easily, what are your thoughts on that?
If you want Full Sequential you need 8 separate coils, it is WAY superior to running a MSD Box and a Single Coil, especially for BOOSTED Applications. Anytime you run EFI you run the risk of picking up "Noise" or "Signals". Guys do this everyday and it is way more effective with a better end result using "Coil Near Plug" or Separate coils for each Cylinder.
One trick that you can read about is to add 1 Capacitor to each bank of the Coil 12V trigger wire. They are used as a Captive Discharge and Noise Suppressor. If you do some studying on it you will not find anybody that has had problems running the D585 Coils and picking up Noise. So most don't run the Capacitor's from all the research I have done.
Read here on how to install them...
http://www.msextra.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=131&t=43490
Here on ignition options, wiring the D585 Coils with Capacitor's etc....
http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms3/ignition.html
Here is a picture of the Noise Stopping Critter....... No these are not my Coils and NO these are not the good D585 Coils Either, this is for Illustration purposes only. Very Simple and Easy Install to Kill the Noise and pack a punch at coil discharge.
View attachment edis_cap_ls2_coil.jpg
3) So you are using that 36:1 crank wheel, where did you purchase it from?
http://trigger-wheels.com/store/contents/en-uk/d5.html
The one I bought came with a Centering hole only and had to be Modified "Machined on a Lathe" and drilled to bolt onto the Damper. Nothing on a build like this seems to just bolt on, everything has to be modified in one way, shape, form or fashion. "One thing leads to another"
4) They one in the thread looked like it had black teeth on it?
Optical Illusion.
5) Also did you have to go with the larger cam trigger inside the dizzy or could u have just shaved the 7 teeth of the one that came with that dist?
We already went over this but..... Here it is again in more Detail..... My MS3X was built for the use of Hall Sensors. The Lean Burn Dizzy has VR Sensors in it, I would have had to take the MS3X apart and MOD it to use the VR Sensor Pickup. Hall sensors are a better way to send a signal on an install like this and in my opinion are superior to a VR Sensor.
I could have shaved 7 teeth off of the Reluctor but Ben & Matt Cramer the Guru's who sell this & work on this stuff everyday at DIYAUTOTUNE.com , suggested against it because the single vein that would be left on the reluctor would be TOO SMALL to trip the sensor. This is why I came up with using the Nascar Reluctor because the Vein is 5 times as wide as the stock reluctor and will trip the sensor easily.