A great power adder is a super charger like a Pa ton for e ample. Bolt on the car and ad a MSD timing retard box. This will save your engine from being to radical for daily driver useage.
11 sec. build cost?
- Thread starter doogievlg
- Start date
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SRT_DSTRHOLC
Well-Known Member
Agreed with Rumble..Get a cheap motor..slap super charger on run it and if it blows its okay because it was all stock and just replace...rinse and repeat
and how much for the super charger set up????
and add that cost to your cheap engine/trans...and blow up going down the track..into your own oil...and onto your roof...
seen car on roof in lane next to me...and it hit me...
cost me about 3k to fix my car...his was junk...yeah..great idea...big money saver in long run...LOL
451Cuda
Well-Known Member
My advice: swap in a mild 440
SRT_DSTRHOLC
Well-Known Member
Just because it was 1-1000 doesn't mean it will happen to him.. Maybe my post was too short. I would of course suggest a rebuild of that motor with better gaskets etc. no one said cheap trans so you can stop saying things I didn't. There are plenty of people running 100-150 shot of nitrous on their stock engines. With a 3-4500k super charger or less and 3-500 dollar rebuild you can hit 11s. Just because racers in your area are dumbasses doesn't mean the same for me or people around me.
Not exactly all stock but an idea
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=58087
"Stock bore and stroke 360 Magnum with about 16,000 miles on the clock, with stock cast pistons, rods and crank... factory rings, head gaskets, and balance.
Stock compression ratio (measured 9:1.) Virtually, a stock 360 Magnum short block, except for the cam.
Stock Magnum heads with a TINY bit of bowl porting; no gasket matching at all, and no combustion chamber polishing/grinding. Three-angle valve job, back-cut valves. Stock size valves (OEM valves.)"
This is what I meant by stock "cheap motor"
:glasses7:
yeah...and I never thought it would happen to me either...and it happens every year and many tracks..
the damage you can not see is what cost..the front suspension had to be replaced...
the damage you can not see is what cost..the front suspension had to be replaced...
doogievlg
Well-Known Member
Right now it has the 7 1/4 rear with 2:73 gears so I have been to embarressed to run it. I think this spring I am going to take it up there before I put my other rear in it with 3:55's just to get a baseline. I have done a 12.6 in my dads mustang so I know what a 12 second ride is going to feel like and I am guessing my dart with the 2:73's is MAYBE a 14 second car. With the new rear and some better tires I would hope to be down in the 13's. I think I have decided to just keep building my dart now until I get to the low twelves then see where that puts my drivability. The trailer and truck for tow is not an issue. I am very interested to see what my dart turns now though and hopefully it will surprise me in a good way. The track opens in April I believe so I'll keep you guys posted on what it runs with the highway gears. I was hoping to get the new rear in over my christmas break but the intake and carb swap turned out to be a complete pain due to hunting down bolts and frigged nights in a pole barn with no heat.
LXguy
Well-Known Member
You don't have to build a race car to run 11s.
If you can deal with going slower than 11.49, you can save a lot of money on a roll bar.
My Dart is full weight (still have the bench seat) and runs 11s no matter what the weather (its usually terrible in Illinois). I ran 11s with under $2500 in the engine from oil pan to air cleaner, gaskets and oil included. I drive it on the street all the time (not in the winter).
The tricks are:
Stay the hell away from the machine shop.
Chassis must work. This is not expensive, just requires attention to detail.
Blindly adding power just makes for smoke shows. The *entire* deal is to traverse the first 60' as quickly as possible.
The first thing people do is get into the motor, which is good for bragging on cruise night, and spending more money than the guy who is going faster than you.
What do do instead:
Tires. Slicks bring the ET. Period.
A good converter is tied with tires for the best $$/ET ratio out of anything on an NA car. Lots of people skimp here and regret it later.
A good ignition box (with a two step) and a wideband 02 also have a very high $$$/ET ratio.
Take your car to the track now and run it.
Then...put Caltracs and monoleafs on it, a converter, good rear shocks, a two step and slicks. You won't believe the difference.
Or just buy mine! ;)
EDIT: Also, my cam is not BIG, its just built for my combo. Its 224/230 duration at .050. Its got some sound, but it doesn't lope like its going to die, or have to be spun to the moon to make power.
Good luck!
Steve
If you can deal with going slower than 11.49, you can save a lot of money on a roll bar.
My Dart is full weight (still have the bench seat) and runs 11s no matter what the weather (its usually terrible in Illinois). I ran 11s with under $2500 in the engine from oil pan to air cleaner, gaskets and oil included. I drive it on the street all the time (not in the winter).
The tricks are:
Stay the hell away from the machine shop.
Chassis must work. This is not expensive, just requires attention to detail.
Blindly adding power just makes for smoke shows. The *entire* deal is to traverse the first 60' as quickly as possible.
The first thing people do is get into the motor, which is good for bragging on cruise night, and spending more money than the guy who is going faster than you.
What do do instead:
Tires. Slicks bring the ET. Period.
A good converter is tied with tires for the best $$/ET ratio out of anything on an NA car. Lots of people skimp here and regret it later.
A good ignition box (with a two step) and a wideband 02 also have a very high $$$/ET ratio.
Take your car to the track now and run it.
Then...put Caltracs and monoleafs on it, a converter, good rear shocks, a two step and slicks. You won't believe the difference.
Or just buy mine! ;)
EDIT: Also, my cam is not BIG, its just built for my combo. Its 224/230 duration at .050. Its got some sound, but it doesn't lope like its going to die, or have to be spun to the moon to make power.
Good luck!
Steve
doogievlg
Well-Known Member
Here is another issue I have yet to spring on you guys. My rear with the 3:55's is an 8 1/4. Will it handle a hard launch on slicks with the combo I have now. Eddy 650 or holley 700, Eddy RPM intake, MP lifters, MP .484 cam, headers, MP distributor, B&M flexplate and 3000 rpm converter. I got the rear end of someone who races a scamp and he believed that if I were to add slicks that I would destroy the rear. What are your recomendations on the caltraks by the way?
LXguy
Well-Known Member
I don't know about the rear. Certainly stock axles and slicks don't get along.
If you want ET, its holley. If you want street manners and E-Z tuning, get a Street Avenger carb. Cheap, easy and capable of good ETs. I run/ran a 670 on mine.
Have you already got that camshaft?
Don't forget the trans cooler with that converter.
Manual valve body would be a big help ET-wise, but then you're probably stuck buying a shifter, and some people don't like to drive them on the street.
I run the whole cal-tracs setup on my car, along with new poly shackle bushings. I wouldn't get their front shocks though. I had them and they made the rear end really floaty in the street. Didn't seem to help 60' times either.
If you want ET, its holley. If you want street manners and E-Z tuning, get a Street Avenger carb. Cheap, easy and capable of good ETs. I run/ran a 670 on mine.
Have you already got that camshaft?
Don't forget the trans cooler with that converter.
Manual valve body would be a big help ET-wise, but then you're probably stuck buying a shifter, and some people don't like to drive them on the street.
I run the whole cal-tracs setup on my car, along with new poly shackle bushings. I wouldn't get their front shocks though. I had them and they made the rear end really floaty in the street. Didn't seem to help 60' times either.
doogievlg
Well-Known Member
I had a hurst floor shifter when I got the motor put in. I was 18 at the time and didnt have a garage big enough to do the swap so I took it to my dads friend who is a chevy guy. I also gave him the hurst shifter and he said it couldn't be done with the 722 which I have come to understand as being false. I love the feel of driving a reverse valve body car on the street and have no objections to spending 150 bucks on a shifter. How difficult is it to add the reverse valve body and add the stick shift. Am I going to have to drop the trans to do this?
ValiantRacing
Well-Known Member
The cost can go way up from 12 flat to low 11s I have experience first hand..
No on dropping the trans,check out Turbo Action.Real sweet stuff,valvebody wise.
doogievlg
Well-Known Member
I have been checking them out. I heard a lot of good things about their shifters and valve bodies. How streetable are their shifters and how difficult is the valve body install. The only reason I asked about dropping the trans. was because I did it to put the convert and flexplate in and it turned into a all day ordeal. I have nothing against it I am just trying to figure out the difficulty of all this since I have transaphobia
I did a 727 valve body in mine,easily done in the car. The shifters,hear lots of good about,have a Hurst now.The B&M Quarterstick,and Quicksilver work well,too.
doogievlg
Well-Known Member
When I first went away to school I stayed away from this website...now I remeber why. I just want to graduate and get some money in my pocket.
Have an answer for ya.Check out Hot Rod magazine's " Cheap Thrills" dart buildup.Done in mid 1994,ran 12's on a 2000 budget.(in 1994,mind you). Not the same prices nowadays,gives you a idea for bang for buck.Add a simple nitrous system, 11's easy.Fast can be done on a budget,you need a plan.
doogievlg
Well-Known Member
Will Nitrous put alot of extra strain on the motor? Why is this thread not showing up on the recent list on the home page btw?
Because it's old.AdamR had posted a couple weeks back,about the car being on EBay. Otherwise go to Hot Rod's website,type "cheap thrills",in their search engine. Nitrous ,done correctly is ok,as long as you pay attention to the basics needed. A weekend toy,yes.Daily driver, newbies shouldn't try.
451Cuda
Well-Known Member
Heh...I actually wrote in to them about that project, and they printed my letter in the August '93 issue. My car was doing 11s for just over 3k, had to thumb my nose at em
edit: sorry my memory is fuzzy...it was the August '94 issue
doogievlg
Well-Known Member
I would consider myself a newbie. I can assemble a motor and tune a carb a little but thats about where my motor skills end.
You understand fuel systems,you can do nitrous.Ask lots of questions everywhere,before every move.As 451 Cuda,you ran a 484 purple shaft,less gear. They gave you a small spot.
green1
Well-Known Member
Old f@rt here. I had my store bought 70 Duster, with a 318 3 speed manual. got it back after a divorce, and it spending 1/2 hour in the Atlantic ocean.
Put it on jackstands in 1987. The rust; cut out the trunk, tubbed it, new front floorboards, new Strange shortened dana 4.88. spool, Morrison 4 link. SS springs. Fuel cell. Had to stop for years; work, new wife, etc, no time.
Got back on it 3 years ago, new rr quarter, swapped out the ss for coil overs, installed front discs, Finished roll cage. New mallory 7 hifi, shifter, 727 with 13 runs on it, driveshaft, ujoints, front shocks, battery in rear, with 4 pole switch, and more.
The car is finally rust free. So far, I have 16k in it, and want to pull the 340, and install a 408. another 7k. And still in primer.
It costs.
Put it on jackstands in 1987. The rust; cut out the trunk, tubbed it, new front floorboards, new Strange shortened dana 4.88. spool, Morrison 4 link. SS springs. Fuel cell. Had to stop for years; work, new wife, etc, no time.
Got back on it 3 years ago, new rr quarter, swapped out the ss for coil overs, installed front discs, Finished roll cage. New mallory 7 hifi, shifter, 727 with 13 runs on it, driveshaft, ujoints, front shocks, battery in rear, with 4 pole switch, and more.
The car is finally rust free. So far, I have 16k in it, and want to pull the 340, and install a 408. another 7k. And still in primer.
It costs.
green1
Well-Known Member
And all the labor was me.
Mad Dart
Nothing to see Here!
It costs time & money or both. Most don't usually have both at the same time! haaaa
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