11 sec. build cost?

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Well with no serious gf and hopefully getting a cheap apartment I should have the money and time haha. I figure most people go out and travel when they get out of college so ill sit in my garage and work on my dart.
 
You understand fuel systems,you can do nitrous.Ask lots of questions everywhere,before every move.As 451 Cuda,you ran a 484 purple shaft,less gear. They gave you a small spot.

The .474 hemi grind actually. Evidently you found my letter in the issue...been digging through my moving boxes to try and find it for the past hour lol.
 
No,I memorized it,Lol. Quite quick,then.And still now.....Doogie,being single ,with friends young is cool.Please enjoy it. You will find a lady......
 
I am just not in a hurry to get married with kids and such. Plus where I am going to school at right now you really have to watch out for some girls. Not all have their teeth around these parts.
 
and how much for the super charger set up????

and add that cost to your cheap engine/trans...and blow up going down the track..into your own oil...and onto your roof...

seen car on roof in lane next to me...and it hit me...

cost me about 3k to fix my car...his was junk...yeah..great idea...big money saver in long run...LOL


A freinds stock 360, a '76 vintage. Add 1 Paxton at 2700, 1 MSD box w/retard (price unknown) cheap header, local speed shop for 2-1/2 pipe and 2-$25 mufflers, 1 cam, lifter, valve spring set up and 4.30 gears.

It's been approx 7 years driven with spirit and raced every now and again at the track. Street races a lot. Will run high 11's no problem.

Stop assuming and talking out your *** as if super charging a stock engine will blow it up. Do it wrongly it will. Do it right and your freinds brag about you to Internet heros stating otherwise.
 
OE thread starter

A Paxton Is in Summit racing for about 2600. Add the above post parts to run it right. Retard MSD! While the parts may add up a good bit, there also only a few parts that will bolt on and go.
 
A freinds stock 360, a '76 vintage. Add 1 Paxton at 2700, 1 MSD box w/retard (price unknown) cheap header, local speed shop for 2-1/2 pipe and 2-$25 mufflers, 1 cam, lifter, valve spring set up and 4.30 gears.

It's been approx 7 years driven with spirit and raced every now and again at the track. Street races a lot. Will run high 11's no problem.

Stop assuming and talking out your *** as if super charging a stock engine will blow it up. Do it wrongly it will. Do it right and your freinds brag about you to Internet heros stating otherwise.

:cheers:
 
The only ones that are talking out there ***'s are the ones not doing it.

70aarcuda is doing the **** not talking it. Sorry to say he has more experience in the Mopar game than any of you put together.:D


I personally don't care because I don't have to prove anything to anyone. He may have more experience, but that comes with age....So little bit of advantage if you want to call it that. :violent1:
 
I think I am going to stay away from forced induction and nitrous. I have made up my mind to just build my 360 as much as possible and see where I am at....maybe get the 408 kit. Nothing against forced induction btw, I just have no experince with it and would rather learn on someone else's car.
 
IMO, you won't be running 11's with that CC build unless it's in a super efficient chassis and VERY light. The HP is a little on the strong side from witnessing what other builds have kicked out.
 
Thats what I was thinking too but I got excited. I am actually throwing together an excel sheet on a build and right now I am up to 3 grand and thats not including small stuff like bolts and gaskets. It is including Eddy aluminum heads and KB flat tops and a full MSD kit
 
running 11's, especially high 11's, does NOT require a race car. A high 11 second car is a FUN street car, and should be cake...does not require cutting up your car either (oh, a cage is not cutting up a car should you need one, since you can cut it out after if you really wanted to return your dart to all original...not that original darts are worth anything though, especially in the 73 year).

Listen to some on here, they will guide you in the right direction...just gotta know which ones to listen to...LXguy and Tony have some good info

As for the blower on a stock motor...I wouldn't do it...especially since mopar kits have a HUGE price tag, that is unless you want to buy the bracket seperate, find a used blower, and then fab the rest yourself, but even then if you don't spend the time to tune it properly, your stock motor will be toast quick.

It can be done all motor, and at 360" too, but if it were me and you were as worried as you seem about streetability, I would just spray it when you want the power, just watch your tune...oh, and get rid of that 8-1/4 regardless of what you do imo

good luck!
 
WOW! Something I can agree with that Mshred said. The world must becoming to an end.
 
Superchargers are great fun, but don't forget the added cost of a good fuel system.

You need a boost reference regulator, good pump, carb, carb hat, lines, fittings yada yada. It adds up to a lot more than it seems like it should.

And there are teething pains on the tune too. You're either going to leave a ton on the table or you're going to blow head gaskets finding the edges. I had a supercharged mustang on the dyno back in the day. Went from 19 (Vortech recommended) total timing under 15 lb. boost to 21* and found 60 rwhp. Went to 22* and got another 10 rwhp. Went to 24* and blew both head gaskets...

The car went 10.80s with a stock camshaft though, so all was forgiven. :)

I run a mechanical fuel pump on my car. I carry a squeeze bottle to fill the bowls back up after I do jet changes, but otherwise its totally hassle free, and super cheap. Supposedly you can even run a 100 or 150 shot of nitrous on a mechanical pump, but I'm not trying it....

Figure out a plan and do research before you spend any money. Don't get in a hurry when you're actually doing the work. Check out the URL in my sig if you get a chance, it gives a lot of the details on my build.
 
I am not going to hurry it at all...Its mostly going to be a buy the parts as I go sort of thing. I plan on getting the KB pistons this summer. Then save up some money and pull the motor in like november and tear it down. So I should have plenty of time to plan and reshearch it. There is guy who races a stick shift scamp about 10 minutes from me that I try to keep in touch with so maybe he can come over and give me a hand on the tough stuff. I very rarely tackle anything major like this alone and found it is always helpful to have an old timer around to catch all my mistakes. I just need to make up my mind if I want to try and save the money for the stroker kit or just keep it a stock stroke motor....O and the old timer is the guy that sold me the rear end and also has a 8 3/4 out of his race car I could get when I get the money. Man this is going to be alot of cash.
 
Geez, just run it the way it is. You'll be amazed at how much you can do with it to improve it.
If you're going to bracket race, that in itself is a learning experience. You don't even want a fast car for that. A lot of learning to do, so a good car is essential.
I would do the 8 1/4 rear, though.
Go get a good job with that new degree. Cars are secondary to what matters.
 
Dunno, I'm old school. An old 10.25 pop up pistons, .18 out of the top. I had some serious fun with them. Still own one.
 
After reading over this thread again I've realized a few things.

We're probably getting way ahead of the game here with what he can afford or do skill-wise. Maybe the first steps that should be taken is (1) take it to the track and see where it's at now, (2) determine a realistic goal that he can achieve on his own and on his budget, and (3) help him achieve that goal with solid advice.

You don't jump into spending tons of money and building a fast car without knowing the basics of tuning and maintenance. If his car is a 14 second car, let's get him through the 13s with tuning and driving tips, then talk about spending money. Just my $.02
 
I am not trying to be a turd here but I have been down the strip a few times. I agree I am getting a bit ahead of myself with the budget. Skill wise I am no master motor builder but I have assembled motors. The thread started out as me trying to figure out if I should buy another car and build it or stick with the other. It sort of got ahead of itself and led to me making a spread sheet of parts and prices lol. Just dreaming.
 
I am not trying to be a turd here but I have been down the strip a few times. I agree I am getting a bit ahead of myself with the budget. Skill wise I am no master motor builder but I have assembled motors. The thread started out as me trying to figure out if I should buy another car and build it or stick with the other. It sort of got ahead of itself and led to me making a spread sheet of parts and prices lol. Just dreaming.

actually that is a smart thing to do...write it out on paper, have done that many times...
 
I made one for the motor as it is now. Another for the parts I want to get. I wanted to start on the total for the car but tonight was my night to baby sit the drunks.
 
I am not trying to be a turd here but I have been down the strip a few times. I agree I am getting a bit ahead of myself with the budget. Skill wise I am no master motor builder but I have assembled motors. The thread started out as me trying to figure out if I should buy another car and build it or stick with the other. It sort of got ahead of itself and led to me making a spread sheet of parts and prices lol. Just dreaming.

So what does it run now?

My whole point was...maybe you can just do some tuning and a couple parts swaps and get there pretty much as it is. I think many here have proven you can have a very streetable 360 A body that runs 11s.
 
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