**73 Scamp Mini Pro-Street Engine Swap**

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Well put my trans together last night. Air Checked the clutches on the bench and they
were engaging fine but the front clutch drum is acting weird and sounds like it has an air leak after I assembled the transmission. I had assembled everything but the valve body and decided to air check it again assembled. I can hear the rear clutch engage but the front one sounds like a solid air leak. I already pulled it back apart "whole 5 minutes" So this morning I will be opening up the front clutch and see if a lip seal rolled over........

This is a Video of the Air Check AFTER I pulled it back apart. It did not sound like this on the original bench test only after I installed it in the transmission.......

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QslWqLpxg8Q"]904 air test - YouTube[/ame]
 
Seals and sealing rings designed for oil will not seal air as well - so bear that in mind. Sometimes when I air check I can hear leaks - could be out the seals at the pump support - but that doesn't mean it won't work fine. You should be able to hear the piston apply against the clutches and hear it release. If you hear that movement and you don't have a ton of air leakage it's fine.
 
So I took the front clutch all apart and did not see anything weird. I took my time very slowly and installed the piston verifying the those seals lips were facing down and all was good. I then set everything down on the pump again and it acted the same??? so what the heck???
This is where it gets interesting.......for giggles I grabbed another pump I had and set the clutch packs on it. WOW what a difference. For some odd reason my other pump was leaking air. I could tell because when I tested the front drum with the rear drum set down on top of the pump the rear clutch would move. Anyway its all good now....... I put it back together in the transmission and did the air check again to verify. I can clearly hear both clutches apply. It is so different when I check the front clutch that it wants to blow the air nozzle out of the hole from the back pressure. So for now I am calling it good and moving forward.
 
moper said:
Seals and sealing rings designed for oil will not seal air as well - so bear that in mind. Sometimes when I air check I can hear leaks - could be out the seals at the pump support - but that doesn't mean it won't work fine. You should be able to hear the piston apply against the clutches and hear it release. If you hear that movement and you don't have a ton of air leakage it's fine.
Click to expand...

Yes I understand and thanks for re assuring me that some air leakage would be ok. I just don't want to have to take the trans back out after all this work and installing everything.
 
One thing I forgot to mention is I got the end play set correctly using the thin washers in the kit. It took me 2 times taking the pump out to get it right. So the end play is set at .020"

I also wanted to mention that I can hear some air escaping. What I did to satisfy my curiosity on whether the clutch is actually engaging or not is I wrapped a shop rag around the input shaft and clamped a pair of vise grips to it. While I was spinning the input shaft I hit both clutches with air, "at different times of course....."... The input shaft stops rotating Immediately when applying air to the clutches. You can also FEEL them engage with your hand on the input shaft. Just thought I would throw that out there.
 
Trans is done. Just need to put on the pan gasket and the new 1/8 to 6an steel fittings.
Clutches were bench tested & tested in the trans. Front and rear bands were tested and adjusted. The new RMVB was installed and I re used the deep pan that I had on the other trans. The Pan has a drain plug with magnet tip. I may install a magnet or two in the bottom of the pan.

The converter will be here tomorrow sometime along with a new transmission cooler. I got a pretty good size one 11"X11"x1.5" thick 29200 BTU. I have all the fittings and steel lines already.

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Converter is here... FEDEX Flaked out today on the Cooler and so did Summit for the Converter bolts They shipped the bolts on 5/21 and UPS has absolutely no record of it "The Tracking Number has no updates" so they just sent them again today. Still going to try and install the driveline this weekend. I will just replace the converter bolts with the new ones when they get here.

Went to TTI today and picked up my gaskets. Man their gaskets match the ports LIKE ****. Everytime I get a set they have to be trimmed. Also the W2 Headers need to be massaged in at the entry of the ports.......TTI Claims to be the best headers etc for mopars but I have never had a set line up with the ports correctly. They ALL need to be massaged in this includes the gasket and the header entry at the head flange even with the standard headers.
You can see the FELT Marks on the gaskets where they need to be trimmed from HANGING into the port. You can also see where I scribed the header entry at the head. Going to hit that with a carbide bit on both headers..... Quick easy fix

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Don't grind out the floor. will not be beneficial. leave the material in it.
 
Worked on the POS today. Got the engine trans installed. I started the day off with a busted bolt on the intake manifold when bolting the hoist attachment onto the intake.

It took me longer to set up the Tig Welder than it did to get it out.

Things left before I fire it off.

Suxx cause my parts were re routed and wont get here til Wednesday this week.

1) Radiator and hoses
2) Trans Fluid 5 Quarts, Start it add 4 and check the dip stick..."Don't Forget DUMMY...
3) Run new trans cooler lines, mount Cooler
4) Fittings at trans....
5) Shifter Mod and Linkage
6) Bleed Brakes
7) Mount Coil
8) Stuff I forgot...... Lol

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I hope to have everything done in the morning except the for the Install of the parts I am waiting for.
 

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Thought I would mention that I had a hard time with the biscuit mounts. The New Extreme Energy bushings gave me a really good fight. The engine finally sat all the way down after about 3 hours. I was frustrated with it so I just skipped that part and kept going. They finally gave and dropped into place...... Man now I know if this engine ever comes out I will open up the mounts at the K Frame with a BFH a bit so it goes in easy! :banghead:
 
bad440 said:
nice work louis,i like your car. it's lucky you bought it.
Click to expand...

Thanks Mike!
The saga continues though. I put on the new Brake Lines, Front Calipers & Master Cylinder and when I was bleeding the rear brakes I noticed that the Backing Plates are moving like a DRUNKINNN SAILOR.... This car is just pissing me off. If I haven't touched it yet I guess it needs to be replaced or needs my attention and you all know I am not even joking! :banghead:
 
Mad Dart said:
Thanks Mike!
The saga continues though. I put on the new Brake Lines, Front Calipers & Master Cylinder and when I was bleeding the rear brakes I noticed that the Backing Plates are moving like a DRUNKINNN SAILOR.... This car is just pissing me off. If I haven't touched it yet I guess it needs to be replaced or needs my attention and you all know I am not even joking! :banghead:
Click to expand...
wtf? are the axle retaining bolts loose? or the backing plates cracked?and yeah i know your not joking,that thing has been alo of work.pretty screwed up false advertizing right there.i know you wanted to be out tearing it up ...
 
bad440 said:
wtf? are the axle retaining bolts loose? or the backing plates cracked?and yeah i know your not joking,that thing has been alo of work.pretty screwed up false advertizing right there.i know you wanted to be out tearing it up ...
Click to expand...

Ill get it tore apart today and see what it is. Probably going to pull the axles too and have a look.

Yes I bought the car to drive and it has become a **** load of work. Everything on this car is a total cluster fluuck. I am kinda bummed because if I would have worked this hard on my 67 it would be getting final assembly right now. :banghead:
 
Now just remember, this is your hobby!!!! I wouldn't panic until you've got about three tore apart! I'm to the point where I am buying new parts from jegs or whoever, then finding a perfectly good one that I already have tucked away on a shelf!](*,)
 
When you get done there, I can put you to work on the orange bomb!

I mean if you get bored and all. :)
 
Vitamin c said:
Now just remember, this is your hobby!!!! I wouldn't panic until you've got about three tore apart! I'm to the point where I am buying new parts from jegs or whoever, then finding a perfectly good one that I already have tucked away on a shelf!](*,)
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Yeah I hear you! Me too on the parts. I have most of everything I need right under my own roof..... Lol

crackedback ; When you get done there, I can put you to work on the orange bomb!

I mean if you get bored and all.
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Haha, bring it on over and WE will get right on it! I got a couple bays left for cars to get tore up on and fixed up! :D

younggun2.0; if you need backing plates for 10" rear drums i got a set bro.
Click to expand...

I am hoping that the bolts are just loose. If the holes are Oblonged "Oval" I will see if I can repair them first. If they can't be fixed then you will be getting notified in a Hurry!! Thanks
 
Mad Dart said:
I am kinda bummed because if I would have worked this hard on my 67 it would be getting final assembly right now. :banghead:
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yup. I spend a lot of time on others' stuff - and then I look at mine and go "someday". I've come to the realization it's all in my head so if I need to change it has to start with recognizing what's really important to me - cash - or progress.

You're doing a great job of this though. So when you do your other(s) it will just be another thing to do...
 
Got the locking dipstick installed. Installed the cooler fittings at the trans "PITA by the way", got the PTFE hoses made up and installed to the cooler lines all the way to the Radiator support. Just gotta finish up the Cooler lines from the Radiator Support to the Cooler and mount it.

Things left before I fire it off. Good thing is I have everything.

1) Install ARP Converter Bolts
2) Valve Cover Gaskets
3) Mount Coil
4) Finish lines and mount cooler
5) Fill Trans

I want to be sure all is OK and nothing has to come back apart so "Check for Leaks etc", After I get it fired.....

6) Weld in and Attach exhaust from TTI to existing exhaust system/Weld in 2 Oxygen Sensor Bungs. Install Wide Band.

7) :burnout:
 
so your gonna have it going today then? thats not a huge amount of work. make sure the engine has oil in it too!!!!!!!!!
 
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