Exhaust studs with headers?

-
mopowers

mopowers

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 15, 2006
Messages
8,559
Reaction score
4,765
Location
West Sacramento, CA
Can I retain and utilize the outer two exhaust studs to use with Dougs headers on my 68 340 Dart? Those two gave me fits trying to pull them last night. I'm assuming they are rusted in place from the water jacket. Can I just keep them in, or will the headers not slide up and over them??? I'd rather not break the studs off if I can help it.

Thanks!
 
I got mine in with the studs in place.
I don't have Dougs, but it shouldn't make a lot of difference.
 
Your correct in that the studs are I. Water jackets. The header can be slid into ace with them in the head. While installing the header, the engine need to be released from the mounts in order to tilt and raise it up for clearance.
Also disconnect the battery wires and other ground cables and wires from the engine. You will need as much clearance as possible.

When I do headers, I use the studs to hang the header for a rest or to reposition myself above or below. Headers are not easy to install. Have a buddy at the ready.
 
Might want to just remove your distributor cap so it doesn't get broken from moving the engine around.
You don't have to take the wires out of it, just lay it in front of the dizzy.
 
yeah those studs are actually a great help because when you get the headers in position they will hold there while you can get all the bolts in
 
How much side clearance with the exhaust tubes do you have with the original nuts on those studs? Sometimes the original diameter nuts/hardware won't fit or the edges of the nuts hit the tubes when spun on, which is why they make mini head header bolts, and allen head bolts. Before you tighten everything up, try re-using the end stud hardware to hold it in place. The studs are a blessing and a curse - they help hold the headers on when getting them first installed but use up precious wiggle room sometimes needed between the head and inner fenderwell for installing the header.
 
I couldn't get my headers in with the studs in. The back passenger side kept weeping so I did what Doug's recommended, I slotted the hole for it and slipped it over a stud. No more coolant leaks.

The Doug's early A headers are multiple pieces so that made it a little easier.
 
Not specific to this engine.........

Some studs won't work because the OD of the nuts is too large. Some headers do / do not have the outer holes slotted to expedite slipping over those studs. Otherwise, no reason not to.
 
Thanks guys. I think at this point I'll need to take the two out that are stuck anyway because the threads are messed up from trying to remove them. Anyone have any good suggestions for removing them? I tried soaking them in PB blaster and double nutting them but the nuts just spun. Next was vise grips to no avail. Haven't tried heat yet. That's next...
 
Lots of heat, then the vise grips, is what's next. A propane torch should be enough. Heat the head all the way around the stud and it should grow enough the release the stud. It may take a while so, patience Grasshoppa'.
 
And thread IN a little bit first, then try threading them out. And VERY small wiggles back and forth with the vise grip to get them moving before wailing on them.
 
Well... I tried heating them up. The first came out, but it was tough. The second one snapped below the head surface. I tried welding a washer and nut to it but that snapped as I tried it back it out. It's on #7 cyl, so it's a little easier to get to than some of the others. I'm going to try welding a nut to it a couple more times. If that doesn't work, I'm praying I can get a drill bit and tap in there. If I end up having to pull the head, some RHS's are going in it's place.

Any other good ideas for pulling out a broken stud in a tight spot???
 
Well, ****! I tried 3 times to weld a nut to the broken stud. It breaks off every time I try to turn it with a wrench. Hopefully I can get a drill and tap in there so I don't have to pull the head. Why does this crap always seem to happen to me? Haha...
 
mopowers said:
Well, ****! I tried 3 times to weld a nut to the broken stud. It breaks off every time I try to turn it with a wrench. Hopefully I can get a drill and tap in there so I don't have to pull the head. Why does this crap always seem to happen to me? Haha...
Click to expand...

Don't be surprised if you end up having to helicoil it when it's all done. I had a stud break off. I drilled it, but the bit walked in the hole enlarging it. So I had to step it up a size and heli coil the hole.
 
mopowers said:
Well, ****! I tried 3 times to weld a nut to the broken stud. It breaks off every time I try to turn it with a wrench. Hopefully I can get a drill and tap in there so I don't have to pull the head. Why does this crap always seem to happen to me? Haha...
Click to expand...

My #7 stud snapped off and I tried all the tricks, working my way down to the drill and easy out. (the easy out snapped off in the hole about 1/4 inch in)

Since I am using Remflex gaskets and I plan on swapping heads later I just put it all together and got no leaks at all over a year now.
Those Remflex gaskets are everything they say they are, and you don't have to re-torque them later either.
Worth every penny.
 
I use all studs with my TTI step headers.

BUT the studs are cut so there is maybe one thread showing past the nut when tightened with gasket.
 
Well, I can't get this damn thing out! I tried welding a nut to the broken stud 3 times. It snapped off every time. I tried drilling it out in place, but that didn't work too well. The heads are coming off... Dammit! Anyone needs a good set of X heads?
 
mopowers said:
Well, I can't get this damn thing out! I tried welding a nut to the broken stud 3 times. It snapped off every time. I tried drilling it out in place, but that didn't work too well. The heads are coming off... Dammit! Anyone needs a good set of X heads?
Click to expand...


You can also drill out and tap it out the next size bolt/stud. There's no rule that says it has to be a certain size!! I've done it with a 90 degree drill from HF.

treblig
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top