1966 dart convertible

[pyrojim]

Kurt, you are a huge help. Thank you so much!!!!!

 

[hemijoe]

Help. How do I terminate the door seal in the pillar side??

to terminate the seal properly insert a very small piece of foam rubber into the hole then cover it with a thin layer or black RTV and let dry this will keep the seal soft and not ruin its shape :happy1::happy1:

 

[66Dvert]

to terminate the seal properly insert a very small piece of foam rubber into the hole then cover it with a thin layer or black RTV and let dry this will keep the seal soft and not ruin its shape :happy1::happy1:

in the old dodge dealership (Jim Vince Dodge on Fort St formerly called Wyandotte dodge)I worked in from 64 to 67 I did repairs for these vehicles when we put in new seals we never locked down the top or bottom seal (meaning sealed em up tight with anything, got 3 days off for doing it that way %^#$%#^) that seal is just a long inner tube type piece that if you seal the ends would not let the door close correctly by staying inflated. even RTV will be strong enough to stop the door seal acting like it should, we were told at the dealership to either hot weld the end in the center of the tube so either end would let air escape or to use a small dab of glue to do the same. I've tried both ways and the hot iron works more like original but it's a pian in the butt to do without ruining the rubber. So I stick witha dab of superglue and cover it(super glue) with another dab of black weather strip adhesive. plus my door seals get into the correct shape I need a lot sooner than with them sealed.


with all that being said it might have been a/this dealership and the practice not being followed by other dealerships

 

[pyrojim]

I figure you're probably getting bored in Michigan, so I figured I'd ask this one. I'm just trying to sort out the proper order of putting things together.
Is this the correct path for the headlamp wiring??
Thanks

 

[pyrojim]

Coming along nicely. Yesterday got the trim on, the heater box, fresh air box and the convertible pump and frame in. Finished wiring the dash, going to set that in today.

 

[pyrojim]

Wiring diagram shows this plug going to the dome light? Don't have a dome light, and the map light doesn't need it. Is this plug to be taped back and not used?

 

[pyrojim]

Wired in the radio, put a blade connector in line on the way to the fuse box. I don't have paint program, computer is down. The pink wire/terminal is the map light, orange and red are for the radio. I had modern guts put into the old case. Says red to ignition power, orange to light circuit. Black to ground. This look correct?

 

[pyrojim]

productive day. Set the dash in. Here is a better depiction of the wiring specific to the radio and map light. Does it look correct? Electrical is not my strong suit. The map light is actually under the one that's showing. The additional pink is just an extra feed. If I don't need it, I'll pull it out later.
Thanks

 

[66Dvert]

I figure you're probably getting bored in Michigan, so I figured I'd ask this one. I'm just trying to sort out the proper order of putting things together.
Is this the correct path for the headlamp wiring??
Thanks

yep sure is. DANG THAT'S LOOKING GOOD!!!

I'm not so much bored as just plain overwhelmed on the amount of small nitpick stuff the inspector wants me to do.... I'm getting ready to do a "as is" and cash only if he keeps up with his stupid stuff and let the new owners worry about it. the inspector wanted me to smooth out the ceiling in the hallway to match the living room (hallway had been textured at one time and it was worn down to nubs from previous cleaning and painting.)
silly stuff like that. hoping to get home by late august (please , pretty please let me make that date going home, I miss working on my stuff ah and the wife too!)



as for the electrical I think it's close to what mine is. I have an extra pink in mine. but I think it's used for something on some of the cars. I'll have to get back home to check it out on the car that's still together. as for the dome light I used that plug for the opera light that will go into the rear section of the consloe to give foot lighting to the rear passengers or just to find junk that's in the back seat floor area.

 

[pyrojim]

That's a great idea Kurt! Is that a state inspector or someone the buyers hired? Either way sounds like a pain in the A$@!! But, I wish you all the best of luck with that! I'm happy with the way things are turning out so far, going for side glass and top on Monday. That I'm excited about.
As far as the blower motor/resistor. Brown and dark green coming off the harness go into the resistor, the green wire coming off the blower motor go to the third connector on the resistor? The wiring diagram shows it going to "J" in the bulkhead? Wierd because there is not enough wire and the memory of the wire says resistor. Also coming off the motor is a ground with two ring connectors? Any idea where these ground? Anywhere on the fire wall or dies the second ring go somewhere special?
Thanks Kurt!
I'm going to pm my phone number, if and when you leave Michigan, if you're heading past I'd like to buy you lunch. If you don't pass directly by, I'd be willing to meet somewhere on your way! Thanks again for all the help

 

[66Dvert]

That's a great idea Kurt! Is that a state inspector or someone the buyers hired? Either way sounds like a pain in the A$@!! But, I wish you all the best of luck with that! I'm happy with the way things are turning out so far, going for side glass and top on Monday. That I'm excited about.
As far as the blower motor/resistor. Brown and dark green coming off the harness go into the resistor, the green wire coming off the blower motor go to the third connector on the resistor? The wiring diagram shows it going to "J" in the bulkhead? Wierd because there is not enough wire and the memory of the wire says resistor. Also coming off the motor is a ground with two ring connectors? Any idea where these ground? Anywhere on the fire wall or dies the second ring go somewhere special?
Thanks Kurt!
I'm going to pm my phone number, if and when you leave Michigan, if you're heading past I'd like to buy you lunch. If you don't pass directly by, I'd be willing to meet somewhere on your way! Thanks again for all the help

darn city inspector " gotta suck up to them guys or they make you miserable", if it was a paid for inspector he'd have hit the door after the first 2 or 3 stupid comments.
lemme look at my setup again .. for the wire going to the j in the bulkhead. I think mine hit the resistor and then a wire jumped off it to the bulkhead connector , so yeah the memory of the wire is probably right. just make sure what spade it goes on. As for the ground mine (originally a heat only car ) went to the firewall and was screwed to that., always wanted to put a bolt and nut through that to keep good ground. then





I went to factory A/C setup and the wire was shorter and went inside the engine bay to a mounting stud on the A/C box. both my ringed connectors were grounded. 1 to the motor mounting stud and one to the firewall. I've seen em mounted in different places on the firewall (probable different assembly plants or dealership repairs.

hey when I'm going home it's no biggie to head your way. (that means the house is sold and I can take my time heading home.)

 

[pyrojim]

On the double ground, the ring is too small to go over the stud. I taped it back and grounded the long one to the kick panel.
Heading over to put the wheels and tires on now.
Thanks Kurt

 

[66Dart273]

Got a quick question. Been looking over your build and also a few other 66 builds. I have one and it's a vert as well. I noticed you have mounts on your trans/driveshaft tunnel. Was this only in console mount/shifted verts? Mine doesn't have them and I wondering why. My vert is a column shifted.... If that make difference?

 

[66Dvert]

Got a quick question. Been looking over your build and also a few other 66 builds. I have one and it's a vert as well. I noticed you have mounts on your trans/driveshaft tunnel. Was this only in console mount/shifted verts? Mine doesn't have them and I wondering why. My vert is a column shifted.... If that make difference?

Yep just for console shift cars. if your bench seat or just column shift you won't have the brackets. doesn'r make a difference if it's convertible, hardtop or sedan (actually haven't seen a sedan with a console but I wasn't looking too close either):glasses7:

 

[pyrojim]

Got a quick question. Been looking over your build and also a few other 66 builds. I have one and it's a vert as well. I noticed you have mounts on your trans/driveshaft tunnel. Was this only in console mount/shifted verts? Mine doesn't have them and I wondering why. My vert is a column shifted.... If that make difference?

Yes sir. That's the console mount brackets

 

[66Dart273]

Awesome. Thanks.

I asked this in another thread, haven't heard back yet. So I'll ask here.

I'm looking for the measurements of the side to side location of the rear quarters. The passenger side on the dart got pushed in a little bit. I want to push it back out, I just don't want to go to far. Anyone know where I can get correct dimensions from?

 

[pyrojim]

Had the same problem. I think the correct measurement is as follows. Put the deck lid on, space it properly on the non bashed in side and push the bashed in side to match. That's what I did. After being on here for a while, I adapted the thought, "it's doesn't have to be right, just has to be good"!!!

 

[66Dart273]

Yeah. I though about doing something like that. It's the door/rear quarter section.

 

[66Dvert]

Yeah. I though about doing something like that. It's the door/rear quarter section.

I'm not near my car (it's in Florida and I'm stuck in Michigan for a bit) but I would get a carpenters square, angle finder and check the good side while making a template from the floor pan to the top of the door, should be sorta L shaped to get the best transfer. Then on the bad side push out the jam to match the template. Also if you sight down the good side of the car you can see it's pretty straight from the door front(actually the fender) to the gas cap area. then it turns in a little bit to flow into the tail lights.. you can see it in Pyrojims great looking car a few pictures up. post #255 or post #236


if your still in need of the measurements in Late,late august I hope to be home by them and can get them to you and the last time I really looked at my jambs they looked to be 90 degree vertical so a bottom measurement at the curved section of the inner jamb should get you right in the ball park.

another thing if it's just pushed behind the door it'll bow the striker area of the door jamb. once you pull out the damaged area with a stud gun it'll help pull the jamb back into position (gotta do that on the wife's 66 dart after I get done with my car.)




Jim... looks like you just "movin" right along there.. that car is starting to come together great!!!

 

[65dartcharger]

in the old dodge dealership (Jim Vince Dodge on Fort St formerly called Wyandotte dodge)I worked in from 64 to 67 I did repairs for these vehicles when we put in new seals we never locked down the top or bottom seal (meaning sealed em up tight with anything, got 3 days off for doing it that way %^#$%#^) that seal is just a long inner tube type piece that if you seal the ends would not let the door close correctly by staying inflated. even RTV will be strong enough to stop the door seal acting like it should, we were told at the dealership to either hot weld the end in the center of the tube so either end would let air escape or to use a small dab of glue to do the same. I've tried both ways and the hot iron works more like original but it's a pian in the butt to do without ruining the rubber. So I stick witha dab of superglue and cover it(super glue) with another dab of black weather strip adhesive. plus my door seals get into the correct shape I need a lot sooner than with them sealed.


with all that being said it might have been a/this dealership and the practice not being followed by other dealerships

I have a question for you 66 Dvert!

When you used to work at the dealership between 64 and 67 do you remember how the U-clamps on the exhaust system was bolted? Was the U-bolt end pointing upwards or downwards? Any help would be very appriciated.

BTW, your car looks great and is coming together fine.

 

[66Dvert]

I have a question for you 66 Dvert!

When you used to work at the dealership between 64 and 67 do you remember how the U-clamps on the exhaust system was bolted? Was the U-bolt end pointing upwards or downwards? Any help would be very appriciated.

BTW, your car looks great and is coming together fine.

thanks
it's getting there. had to make a couple of machines to make parts for me and that sure slowed me down.

ahh to get back to your question. let's say "yes". ok done being a smart a$$ but yes they were Mostly pointed down. depending if you were a short person or a taller person made the difference of the angle. taller = more angled shorter = yup down. the last year I was there I hear they were changing over to a different process so that you could rotate the unibody to get things like that done easier, working in a trench or elevated traversway "sucked". when I got to visit a couple of plants I saw 3 or 4 different ways of installing the same part on different cars. they used pit's trenches, elevates chain ways, rotating platforms and others. it seemed like Jefferson assembly,Dodge truck, Dodge main all did it differently by using different vendors for their machinery. nothing in those plants were ergonomic, just put the darn part on and do it AGAIN all day. whew.

At the dealership if we had to replace or repair the exhaust system we'd always put it down "ish" and have to use a paint marker to daub the nuts "red/orange" color showing that we (the dealership) did it., it was nice working on newer cars since they were not too rusty yet. some of the 60-63's were already rusting away in salty Michigan winters

I think the only one we HAD to do upside down and angled towards the driveshaft was the 67 new yorker/newport extension pipe in front of the muffler so it didn't hit the floor pan dimples for the rear foot well .
then they put me in the sheet metal section, (yahoo a pay raise to $1.21 an hour from $0.97). then Freuhauf trailers called me in to work at their plant in for truck trailers, better pay and $1.25 plus benefits. bought my first "new ish" car,less than 2 year old to me was new (yup a 66 dart convertible/6 auto with only 71 miles on it!!) after that I went to the Chrysler plants.

 

[pyrojim]

Thanks Kurt. It's a process. Sometimes I feel like a slacker when I read your posts! "Built a machine to build some parts"! That's good stuff. I've said before, I don't mind trying new things, but I wanted it to look good do I had a shop locally do the work. They are in great demand, especially for old mopars. The work really is outstanding! Thanks for everything, keep up the good work, and remember, when you start heading south, you're welcome to swing by!
Jim

 

[65dartcharger]

thanks
it's getting there. had to make a couple of machines to make parts for me and that sure slowed me down.

ahh to get back to your question. let's say "yes". ok done being a smart a$$ but yes they were Mostly pointed down. depending if you were a short person or a taller person made the difference of the angle. taller = more angled shorter = yup down. the last year I was there I hear they were changing over to a different process so that you could rotate the unibody to get things like that done easier, working in a trench or elevated traversway "sucked". when I got to visit a couple of plants I saw 3 or 4 different ways of installing the same part on different cars. they used pit's trenches, elevates chain ways, rotating platforms and others. it seemed like Jefferson assembly,Dodge truck, Dodge main all did it differently by using different vendors for their machinery. nothing in those plants were ergonomic, just put the darn part on and do it AGAIN all day. whew.

At the dealership if we had to replace or repair the exhaust system we'd always put it down "ish" and have to use a paint marker to daub the nuts "red/orange" color showing that we (the dealership) did it., it was nice working on newer cars since they were not too rusty yet. some of the 60-63's were already rusting away in salty Michigan winters

I think the only one we HAD to do upside down and angled towards the driveshaft was the 67 new yorker/newport extension pipe in front of the muffler so it didn't hit the floor pan dimples for the rear foot well .
then they put me in the sheet metal section, (yahoo a pay raise to $1.21 an hour from $0.97). then Freuhauf trailers called me in to work at their plant in for truck trailers, better pay and $1.25 plus benefits. bought my first "new ish" car,less than 2 year old to me was new (yup a 66 dart convertible/6 auto with only 71 miles on it!!) after that I went to the Chrysler plants.

Thanks Kurt. That was invalueable information. Re the paint markings, were they made for the reason that Chrysler did that at the plant or just something the dealer should do? If you have time, in my thread you can find picture of how the muffler was mounted. On side of the muffler has a cut-out on the oval for some reason. Should that side be towards the frame or the prop.shaft?

BTW, if you need newly chromed letters for your quarter panel 65 dartman has a set in mint condition.

 

[66Dvert]

Thanks Kurt. That was invalueable information. Re the paint markings, were they made for the reason that Chrysler did that at the plant or just something the dealer should do? If you have time, in my thread you can find picture of how the muffler was mounted. On side of the muffler has a cut-out on the oval for some reason. Should that side be towards the frame or the prop.shaft?

BTW, if you need newly chromed letters for your quarter panel 65 dartman has a set in mint condition.

the paint markings were something the dealer would do. that's to make sure we tightened up all the nuts and sealed the system. I'll go look and see what your talking about on the muffler cutout.

 

[pyrojim]

Off for a new top!!