fratzog lover
Well-Known Member
Have the guy with 30 years experience come over and tune your car.
I think AJ was the dick now. "I dont reallly care if you agree with me" what talk is that..
I have talked some expert who have build Mopar engines 30 years here and he said: put all mechanical advance about 2200-2400rpm. That is advice what I have been listened. And that was what I did before and it worked. Now if someone says it need it to be 3400 rpm then I want to hear why.
I dont claim to be one that knows everything. Im here to learn and listen other people opinions.
All in by 2500 is for race cars that have big TCs, and two modes of operation; namely idle and WOT.And they don't run vacuum advance.
A streeter has to satisfy a bazzilion different operating parameters, not the least of which is a whole lotta time spent at under 3500 rpm. What is the point of sacrificing driveability below 3500 in the name of "I gotta race Distributor", or some such story. If you don't have a 3500Plus TC than you can't have all in before 3500, plain and simple. Well you can but it totally messes up part throttle, and economy.
See at part throttle and steady state, and lower rpms (sub 3500 say), the engine could be wanting 30 or 40 or occasionally 50 degrees of timing. But as soon as the throttle begins to tip in some of that has to drop out. And the faster you tip it in, or the heavier the loading, the quicker it has to drop out. So if your centrifugal timing is already walking a thin line to detonation, the trickier it will be to to satisfy the cruise and PT requirements.
Since you rarely ask for full power below 3500, and a 340/360 usually has more than enough cubes to spin-up street-tires even several degrees short of optimum timing,it seems to me somewhat foolish to completely throw away the tune in this most used area.
So as a compromise,recurve your dizzy to provide 34* at 3400, and idle timing of 12 to 14. Then install the biggest Vcan you can get (I have found none bigger than 22*). And start tuning that bad boy. The max timing can be controlled by shimming the arm. The rate of advance can be controlled by the little screw inside the hose-nipple.Then when you think you got it all dialed in pretty good; add 2* more initial, to get 36* at 3400, and start over.....And when you get that working, recurve it again to get 36* at 3200 or 3000 if you are feeling lucky....
As the engine starts to get the right PT timing it will be possible to start leaning out the low-speed circuits.
This is the road to fuel economy, cool running, and a torquey bottom end;free from detonation.
But while all this is going on, the engine running temperature has to be stable. If the temp is dancing around it will be impossible to work something out. Impossible. So if your carb is still sucking hot underhood air, don't even bother beginning a tune. You are just cooking the fuel, and cooking the air. And the inlet air temp will be all over the place. And the air-density will be dancing worse.
That is one possibility and look like its the best thing to do.Have the guy with 30 years experience come over and tune your car.
That is one possibility and look like its the best thing to do.
Looks like your ego is so big that no one can disagree with you.
I made question for you, can you answer that or not.
To be honest I think the advance thing is most important and cheapest thing to fix. Then comes exhaust and carb.
when the engine operate at 3000rpm and below then there isnt much hp coming out therefore any exhaust or carb is good enough.If the engine can't breathe the timing curve will be different then what it will be once the exhaust is fixed. Getting the timing curve "right" for your current exhaust is just a Band-Aid. Just get it close since it won't fix the real problem.
Fix the exhaust first, get the timing curve set and jetting right, put the correct convertor in it, get a bigger carb, jet it correctly and then recheck the timing curve again. Once that's done change the rear gear ratio. It will be a totally different car if you do this.
You'll be trying to find traction instead of whining about not being able to "burn out".
when the engine operate at 3000rpm and below then there isnt much hp coming out therefore any exhaust or carb is good enough.
Its the scavenging effect (nothing to do with exhaust pipe size) It is very different thing than restricting exhaust. I know I need bigger stall speed converter.Then why do long tube headers with larger exhaust then what you have produce more torque in that rpm range???
With your cam you probably need about a 3000rpm converter though...
Most important thing to me is performance, then comes fuel economy and other things. That means I forget vacuum advance until I have dialed optimal idle and maximum timing + timing climbing rate. If these are done then I add vacuum advance to it if newer will.
Its the scavenging effect (nothing to do with exhaust size) It is very different thing than restricting exhaust. I know I need bigger stall speed converter.
That's exactly what will happen if you don't fix the other issues first. You'll end up going through the timing and jetting after the other changes are made. once it can breathe you'll be starting all over.Who recurve distibutor 15 times from 3400 to 2200? No one. If you know what is good amount of advance then you say it, if you dont better to not say anything.
What is best carb to use? Well just try every carb from 400 cfm to 800 cfm!
... thought it was kool-aid.There must be something in the water you are drinking.....
If performance is most important thing to me does it mean I have to have perfect car? I agree those parts that you and other peolple said arent ideal for my car and in future im going to change them.How can performance be the most important thing to you with that exhaust system and headers you are using??? The same goes for your converter, gears and carb....
You are trying to tune a combination that is just costing you performance. Fix the combination first.
Yes but not at 3000rpm and under where the problem is now. (not saying its the only problem)Restrictive exhaust lacks proper scavenging. How is that different?