Cheepy Three-Sixty build

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Back in the early 80's when I was first getting into ratty musclecars and hopping up engines in my suburban bubble all there was were magazines, books, a few known speed shops that did all levels of machining, that we could never afford, catering to older guys that had money, good jobs, who had hotrods that were but fantasy land for our crowd of just out of highschool with entry level paying jobs, and a Napa that did machine work, or a filthy cluttered machine shop operating out of an old converted gas station. To pull your motor, or snag a 440 from a 71 Imperial from the boneyard for a rebuild meant a hot tanking, a crank regrind, rod resizing, either a hone job or bore and hone, and bronze wall guides and a tri-angle valve job. That was it. Decking, cc'ing, line hone, flowbench, balancing, etc was all out of reach on a pauper s income. A big cam, maybe some home porting, an intake and carb, headers and you had a performance engine. PAW was a dream catalog....Anything else was big buck stuff. As long as the crank was ground and rods resized correctly and the engine broke in right all was good, what did we know? No money!... Hell it worked! It was what it was for our time. Surely it still works today, but having money sure is a lot nicer.
 
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I get PM'd I'm an asshole for not making use of a Holley. I'm an asshole for not using "***" cam.
I'm an asshole for ......

Rumble I think the problem is your actually just an asshole. Embrace it. I have :D


I didn't really mean to put emphasis on the cracked aspect just that they are the only heads I have ATM. Seats and some Fluidweld will take care of the cracks in most cases. J.Rob

The vast majority of cracked Magnum heads I've seen had visible cracks but no ill effects on a running engine. They're not all fatal. I have a set on my shelf that ran fine with no issues but "were junk"...lol.
 
maybe someone here can explain this, but back decade ago I rebuilt several later 70's casting 440. upon measure, they had almost no wear in the bore to command an overbore. I am sure the block was just like the earlier casings, so is it the rings??
I have never used a magnum, but I keep reading here as they can have many miles on them, but not enough wear to need an overbore job. of course, other parts needed for carb and mech fuel pump I guess..
I agree with the comment above on the mopar mags, when reading them, ya gotta remember ads pay the bills not subscribers $$$.... I quit reading them 10-12 yrs back, but MA did have some good common lower $ sense rebuild articles.
 
  • Just like performance, some think 14's is fast and some don't think fast starts till 10's. Nobody is wrong, just say'n.
  • To some, a budget build is "keeping it under 5 grand". Some can't afford any more than a 1000 dollar upgrade total. Again, neither is wrong, and both can have fun.
  • Bottom line, there is no way to say what one "has to do", or "has to spend". It is all 100% individual based.
 
maybe someone here can explain this, but back decade ago I rebuilt several later 70's casting 440. upon measure, they had almost no wear in the bore to command an overbore. I am sure the block was just like the earlier casings, so is it the rings??
I have never used a magnum, but I keep reading here as they can have many miles on them, but not enough wear to need an overbore job. of course, other parts needed for carb and mech fuel pump I guess..
I agree with the comment above on the mopar mags, when reading them, ya gotta remember ads pay the bills not subscribers $$$.... I quit reading them 10-12 yrs back, but MA did have some good common lower $ sense rebuild articles.
IMO Magnum would have better automated machine tolerances, thinner rings = less friction, less wear, moly top ring from factory, fuel injection = less cylinder wash down and cleaner burn with unleaded fuel.
 
LMAO!

Where have you been?!?!
Haven't seen ya in a while.
Ive been around. Just steering clear of pissing matches on here more lately. I don't have the energy for them...lol My new approach is people are either going to listen or not. If it's not in my shop what difference does it make to me?... lol
 
proper machine work always make a better motor than bolt on parts on a stock non machined motor!!!!

And THIS is why I have the mains align honed and the cylinders bored and the decks squared up. There's really three approaches:
Ignore (don't look or measure) things to keep it as cheap as possible
Measure a few things and do only what is necessary to maintain the serviceability of the component you're talking about
Update the accuracy of the component by utilizing the most modern machining (full machining)

I've done all three with success measured by meeting expectations of money and performance. The key to that being "meeting expectations". Anyone that thinks using either of the first two approaches they are not leaving power, economy, and life expectancy on the table even when using stock parts is delusional. But, in many cases, the expectation is not for maxing out any of those areas in order to meet a financial target. That's up to the guy writing the check.
 
Here's a good shot of the crack as shown by the Magnaflux after the heads spent a few minutes in the roto-blast. Also had time to get an intake seat bored and installed. Next step is getting the exhaust seats in. Yes I left the intake seat proud by about .125" due to being unable to get the seat thickness I wanted. What's a few more chips on the floor? J.Rob

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Here's a good shot of the crack as shown by the Magnaflux after the heads spent a few minutes in the roto-blast. Also had time to get an intake seat bored and installed. Next step is getting the exhaust seats in. Yes I left the intake seat proud by about .125" due to being unable to get the seat thickness I wanted. What's a few more chips on the floor? J.Rob

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Everyone take note of what Jesse is doing. He can accomplish anything when it comes to engine machining and assembly.
Nice work my friend!
 
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Thanks. Moving on to the cylinder heads -after taking a bunch of measurements and some quick mock-ups it looks like cracked Magnum heads will be employed with G3 Hemi valves, springs and locks. I have some 5/16 x 3/8" Oldsmobile studs from Comp cams and will use them with Comp's 4825 guide plate and some Chev stamped steel rockers from Melling. I'm backing off on the idea of a roller rocker ATM in order to keep this as cheap as possible. The springs will provide 118 lbs @ 1.700 I.H. and 290 lbs @ 1.200". Pulling the cages off of them gave me the rates I wanted. This valvetrain should be lighter than even the stock Magnum stuff--I'm hoping it will turn the RPM I need. J.Rob

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Are those OEM 5.7 valve springs? Aftermarket is very proud of Beehive springs. I assume these are more reasonably priced. Thanks for any info.
 
Are those OEM 5.7 valve springs? Aftermarket is very proud of Beehive springs. I assume these are more reasonably priced. Thanks for any info.

Those are in fact 5.7 springs. They are very reasonable as in free. I'm hoping they can control the 2.00/1.55" G3 valves which are 8 and 12 grams lighter than Magnum 1.92"/1.625" counterparts-respectively. I roto-blasted the springs and they picked up 2 lbs across the board. J.Rob
 
Hmmm,,,,,, this talk about G3 Hemi valves in magnum heads has me thinking! I just bought a set of EQ-la bare heads, and have springs from a drag pak motor, and plan on a similar build to this one, including the hp goals. My used roller is .481 lift, 276 duration, 224@ .050 and 106 LSA. My intake will be what ever a swap meet can produce, I have TQ and Holley 750 carbs, and a boneyard close by with four used compression checked Magnum 5.9s for $375. I plan to look them over but hopefully bolt the heads on an untouched shortblock and have at it with 1 5/8 headers. With luck and some good parts 400 hp would be a big success for me, I think. RAMM, thanks for posting your build, it is a big help for many, and I believe what we give away comes back three to ten fold!
 
Hmmm,,,,,, this talk about G3 Hemi valves in magnum heads has me thinking! I just bought a set of EQ-la bare heads, and have springs from a drag pak motor, and plan on a similar build to this one, including the hp goals. My used roller is .481 lift, 276 duration, 224@ .050 and 106 LSA. My intake will be what ever a swap meet can produce, I have TQ and Holley 750 carbs, and a boneyard close by with four used compression checked Magnum 5.9s for $375. I plan to look them over but hopefully bolt the heads on an untouched shortblock and have at it with 1 5/8 headers. With luck and some good parts 400 hp would be a big success for me, I think. RAMM, thanks for posting your build, it is a big help for many, and I believe what we give away comes back three to ten fold!

Well , time to take my lumps like a man. I screwed up when doing a prelim installed height check. The G3 valve springs will not work , they are just too tall. Complete oversight on my part. I'm as disappointed as anyone because I now have to source a spring to work @ this 1.600" I.H. The G3 valves are staying for now. J.Rob
 
Using these gaskets with a bore of 4.030" means minimal crevice volume on the 4.020" cylinder size. Still a very minor de-shrouding cut was made. J.Rob

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Some spring seat machining for the now inapplicable G3 springs. Sourcing springs may be a challenge. J.Rob

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I'm enjoying the read and am interested in seeing how it turns out.
I am doing a similar build using the same pistons
I didn't go zero deck. I'm 040 in the hole plus 028 head gaskets
EQ heads, 1.6 rockers and Lunati Voodoo 60402 cam
 
I think I found some suitable springs from Comp that will work with the G3 retainers. Will know more on Monday. Oddly enough the intake manifold is proving to be a problem. The Crosswind is out of stock with all of my suppliers and the Edelbrock Magnum RPM is almost double in price but also not in stock. J.Rob
 
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