If I put the adjustment tab and bolt back in and put tension on the torsion bar will that put enough pressure on them to I can remove the nut on the pivot shaft in the lower control arm without the pivot shaft just spinning freely?
70 Duster Front End Rebuild Help
- Thread starter gtgto
- Start date
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For the torsion bar will need to back the adjuster all the way out. Once that is removed sometimes the torsion bars can be stuck into place and require either a specialize tool to remove or if you do a search on the forum you see tools that members have made. The important thing to remember is not to nick or gouges the torsion bar as this can lead to stress cracks.
The pivot shaft: With the removal of the torsion bar and the strut rod there will be nothing in place holding the lower control arm. With the LCA removed you will have access to the rear of the pivot shaft. At that point you can clamp a pair of vise grips on the pivot shaft where it had been in the lower control arm and wedge it against the frame to hold the pivot shaft in place. This will not damage the pivot shaft as you are clamping to the inner sleeve of the old LCA bushing that was pressed on to the pivot shaft.
Thanks
James
The pivot shaft: With the removal of the torsion bar and the strut rod there will be nothing in place holding the lower control arm. With the LCA removed you will have access to the rear of the pivot shaft. At that point you can clamp a pair of vise grips on the pivot shaft where it had been in the lower control arm and wedge it against the frame to hold the pivot shaft in place. This will not damage the pivot shaft as you are clamping to the inner sleeve of the old LCA bushing that was pressed on to the pivot shaft.
Thanks
James
I ended up buying the torsion bar remover tool from Mancini Racing. It worked well and I was able to get out both Lower Control Arms today. All of the bushings were shot and in pieces in both the LCA's and UCA's. Can't wait to see how much better the car is when its finally back together. I will be taking my time though since I would like to clean up the parts good and put a fresh coat of paint on them which leads me to my next question. What color should be used for the upper and lower control arms and where do they sell the paint? I'm hoping I can buy the paint locally and not have to order it.
Made some more progress this past weekend. I installed a new Idler Arm and got my strut rods out along with my torsion bars. Cleaned them up and gave them a fresh coat of paint. I did hit a snag when trying to install the new strut rod bushings which are a 2 piece design. I lost the handle on the side in the K Member and it rolled somewhere in there and I cannot fish it out. Oh well I will have to make another purchase if I can't find or pull it out. I'm waiting on paint for my lower Control Arms and once I get that I will be reassembling it all....I'm starting to see light at the end of the tunnel since I think the hard part is out of the way....I hope anyways.
After reading this I now understand how lucky I was. I tore my front end apart a couple weeks ago and it took me no more than 5 hours to have it all done. Good luck with reassembly.
Cley
Cley
It definitely has been a process.....I am glad I decided, with the help of my FABO friends, to tackle the job myself instead of bringing my car somewhere. Finding the time has been a problem but I will get it done.....I probably only have a few hours left once I have the LCA's painted. I wasn't going to remove the torsion bars but after looking at them I decided since they were pretty much out, to clean them up and paint them as well.....I know in the long run I am saving myself some cash and also learning a lot about my car. ......
ir3333
Well-Known Member
for those rebuilding their front end bear in mind...from some of these posts new suspension parts may not be as good as what you are removing.If your original tie rods or whatever are sound and tight i'd leave them.You may be replacing them with something inferior.
I hope that's not the case. I know the old LCA and UCA bushings were shot as were the upper and lower ball joints. I cleaned up all the old parts and made them look much better than they did and I'm in the middle of reassembly. It is starting to look like a car with steering and suspension again. I still have the brakes, front sway bar and tightening of some things but I can see the light at the end of the tunnel and it feels good that I did all of this myself and didn't pay a shop to do it.
rich006
Learning as I go
I posted a lot of info (too many words, probably) when I rebuilt my front end. Here's the thread. I was upgrading from drum to disc brakes, and I didn't deal with the Pitman arm or idler arm, but mostly I had to deal with the same things you're doing. Like you, I found it a lot of work but satisfying in the end.
Unfortunately I used Dropbox to link my images, and Dropbox no longer supports image sharing. So if you want to see any of my pictures, just send me a conversation message.
Unfortunately I used Dropbox to link my images, and Dropbox no longer supports image sharing. So if you want to see any of my pictures, just send me a conversation message.
I tried to start a conversation but couldn't due to your box being full. Any pictures you have would be great. I'm way more than 1/2 done with my project but would love to see the pics you took. I get way ahead of myself and don't take nearly enough pictures. Thanks
Well I buttoned up all the loose ends and greased all the new parts over the weekend and got my car back on the ground. I really just wanted to pull it out of the garage and clean up the mess I made but of course I had to go for a little test ride. The stance looks great and my drivers wheel is not tilted inward at the top like it was before I started this venture. The car actually did not drive to bad. A slight pull to the right and I will need to check out the brakes because they do not seem to be grabbing like they used too. I'm planning on adjusting the tie rods a little better and the next time I drive it it will be to get the front end aligned. As soon as I find a competent shop close to me to trust. It took a while but I'm glad I did the work myself.
I found a tire shop locally thats been in business for a long time, I called to inquire about an alignment and the guy I spoke to on the phone said his alignment guy has been working there a long time and is very good with older cars. SO I am heading there on 5/31 at 8 AM for my alignment. Hope all goes well so I can move onto my next project.
rich006
Learning as I go
The equipment matters too. The modern alignment equipment is not set up for our cars. My alignment tech had some experience working with old Mopar suspensions (he said he had rebuilt a Charger suspension) but he seemed very frustrated trying to get the computer equipment to work, and in the end my steering wheel is off center. I recommend you find a mechanic that specializes in older cars and ask them to recommend an alignment shop.
Dartswinger70
Well-Known Member
I was lucky enough to work in a shop with an alignment rack. I would stay after work and work my alignment after I installed the PST front end kit. The alignment takes time, and you have to be able to ajust the cams, knowledge of front end angles, which way is positive camber/caster, toe in, toe out etc. I remember having to look the toe setting up in a Chilton manual, and entering it into the Hunter computer. Todays, alignment techs, may not know what to do if everything does not come up automatically in the alignment software. Having an older alignment tech that knows these cars is a plus, but also a scarce commodity. The auto tech that worked on these cars even in the 80's is reaching retirement age right about now or retirement age for auto mechanics anyway, not too many 55-60 year olds still wrenching for a living. i will say that once the car is properly aligned, it will handle very well.
If you are using radial tires you do NOT want to use the original alignment specs. This, here, is the "go to" spec
Turn of the screw: front end alignment for performance on classic Mopars
In that article is the world famous "skosh chart:"
Turn of the screw: front end alignment for performance on classic Mopars
In that article is the world famous "skosh chart:"
Thank You.....I had this saved from ready a previous post. Just just reminded me to print it out for the shopIf you are using radial tires you do NOT want to use the original alignment specs. This, here, is the "go to" spec
Turn of the screw: front end alignment for performance on classic Mopars
In that article is the world famous "skosh chart:"
ThanIf you are using radial tires you do NOT want to use the original alignment specs. This, here, is the "go to" spec
Turn of the screw: front end alignment for performance on classic Mopars
In that article is the world famous "skosh chart:"
If you are using radial tires you do NOT want to use the original alignment specs. This, here, is the "go to" spec
Turn of the screw: front end alignment for performance on classic Mopars
In that article is the world famous "skosh chart:"
Well I have to say the alignment went well according to the cars drive ability. The sheet I was given after it was completed does not seem to show much similarity to the Skosh Chart above. Do I need to go back or just take it for what its worth since it does drive fine. Car is a cruise night weekend driver.
harrisonm
Well-Known Member
LMAO. I say the same thing all the time. I'll fight something for 8-10 hours that a professional mechanic could probably do in 3. But as long as we get it done; that is all that counts. Keep plugging away.
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