Economical replacement rocker arm set?

-
Now that I got them torqued with the rods there is absolutly zero play in the #1 and #7. It takes effort to move the 3 and 5. I'm assuming that is because the crank is applying pressure to the #1 and 7 is close in the firing order.
 
WSUTARD said:
Now that I got them torqued with the rods there is absolutly zero play in the #1 and #7. It takes effort to move the 3 and 5. I'm assuming that is because the crank is applying pressure to the #1 and 7 is close in the firing order.
Click to expand...


You may have to pull a shim or 2 from them if they are that tight. You don't want any binding. Torqueing the shaft does change the clearance sometimes. It's a PITA.
 
Well, we will have to find out how it runs later. It won't start but I think it has something to do with when I hit the positive battery terminal with the ratchet initially taking off the rocker shaft. My MSD box might be messed up now.
 

WSUTARD said:
Well, we will have to find out how it runs later. It won't start but I think it has something to do with when I hit the positive battery terminal with the ratchet initially taking off the rocker shaft. My MSD box might be messed up now.
Click to expand...


If it weren't for bad luck I'd have no luck at all. Sounds like you're in the same boat.
 
Update. Ticking sound is still there. The spacers had zero effect.

I only spaced the drivers side so it could be the passenger. However, the sound is loudest on the drivers side.

Ohh and my spark issue was I knocked off a magnetic pickup wire when I removed the valve cover.
 
WSUTARD said:
Update. Ticking sound is still there. The spacers had zero effect.

I only spaced the drivers side so it could be the passenger. However, the sound is loudest on the drivers side.

Ohh and my spark issue was I knocked off a magnetic pickup wire when I removed the valve cover.
Click to expand...
what's left? if it isn't the right side, could it still be lifter preload, or a couple of weak lifters? When you had the lifters out previously, did you try taking them apart, and cleaning them?
 
WSUTARD said:
Update. Ticking sound is still there. The spacers had zero effect.

I only spaced the drivers side so it could be the passenger. However, the sound is loudest on the drivers side.

Ohh and my spark issue was I knocked off a magnetic pickup wire when I removed the valve cover.
Click to expand...


That sucks.

If it is valve train noise, and that didn't fix it, you either don't have enough preload or some bad lifters.
 
How do you check the preload?

How often are new lifters bad?

I didn't try cleaning them. I had my old ones sitting here still so I tried to open one up. Heard the retaining clip wiz past my ear and decided right then not to mess with my new ones.
 
WSUTARD said:
How do you check the preload?

How often are new lifters bad?

I didn't try cleaning them. I had my old ones sitting here still so I tried to open one up. Heard the retaining clip wiz past my ear and decided right then not to mess with my new ones.
Click to expand...
hahaha. well there are several different style hydraulic lifters out there, so maybe they aren't so hard to take apart as the old ones. I frankly have never taken any apart, but I don't think they should be too difficult to do. Might want to wear eye protection, though. lol
 
There are a couple of ways to check preload. But for the stock rockers:
- Remove intake and measure the distance that the piston inside the lifter is below the retaining clip. This is the reliable and direct way to do it.
Other methods may work but all the rockers being on one shaft makes it tedious (versus individually adjustable rockers).
 
nm9stheham said:
There are a couple of ways to check preload. But for the stock rockers:
- Remove intake and measure the distance that the piston inside the lifter is below the retaining clip. This is the reliable and direct way to do it.
Other methods may work but all the rockers being on one shaft makes it tedious (versus individually adjustable rockers).
Click to expand...
Wouldnt this be available on the spec sheet of my lifters?
 
WSUTARD said:
Wouldnt this be available on the spec sheet of my lifters?
Click to expand...


Nope. Usually, preload issues are from block and head milling. You end up with too much preload. In your case, you may not have enough.

I've seen heads that had seats installed in the exhaust and the exhaust valves were short enough they didn't have enough preload.

When you had the rockers off did you lay a straight edge across the valve stems and see if they were the same? They could all be the same and all be wrong, but chances are, if the stem heights are the same or damn close some one set them.

It's a PITA to check preload with the intake on. If you can get some light down there you and you can see the lifter, put the cylinder you want to check on TDC firing and look down at the lifter while loosing the shafts. You should see the plunger move up.

I've run them as close as .020 (I've set some at zero) and they didn't make noise.
 
WSUTARD said:
How often are new lifters bad?
Click to expand...
Back in the day, it did not seem common at all. But nowadays it happens with some frequency.
WSUTARD said:
Wouldnt this be available on the spec sheet of my lifters?
Click to expand...
No. And even if you had a spec, you still have to measure what you have.

Typically use an adjustable test push rod to find length. There are likely sone threads here on lengths that work.

This has been a lot of extra grief and work for not pulling the intake manifold. IMHO, the manifold could have been pulled and replaced a couple of times for the time spent so far. What will you do if you put in 273 rockers and new pushrods and you still have a tick?
 
nm9stheham said:
Back in the day, it did not seem common at all. But nowadays it happens with some frequency.

No. And even if you had a spec, you still have to measure what you have.

Typically use an adjustable test push rod to find length. There are likely sone threads here on lengths that work.

This has been a lot of extra grief and work for not pulling the intake manifold. IMHO, the manifold could have been pulled and replaced a couple of times for the time spent so far. What will you do if you put in 273 rockers and new pushrods and you still have a tick?
Click to expand...
Great question to which I dont know the answer! I am relying on you guys to guide me through the darkness here. Everything you have me do I am doing for the first time ever.

So far pulling the intake hasn't been necessary since I could pull the lifters through the gaps. Also, I have pulled and replaced the intake 4 times, 2 of which have resulted in gasket failure, so now you the true reason for my hesitation.
 
Last edited:
WSUTARD said:
How would I go about figuring out which ones I get?
Click to expand...

The hydraulic lifters have a lower pushrod seat than the hydraulics. So the hydraulic lifters use a shorter pushrod...which means if you try to use solid lifter length pushrods on hydraulic lifters they'll be too long.

I'm sure Comp, Isky et al will have the correct pushrods for what you want.
 
yellow rose said:
The hydraulic lifters have a lower pushrod seat than the hydraulics. So the hydraulic lifters use a shorter pushrod...which means if you try to use solid lifter length pushrods on hydraulic lifters they'll be too long.

I'm sure Comp, Isky et al will have the correct pushrods for what you want.
Click to expand...
if the 273 rocker style aftermarket pushrods are three-piece, in other words, have separate pressed-in ends, you can shorten them if they're too long. Of course, if they're too short you're sol. So you can customize them somewhat.
 
rustycowll69 said:
if the 273 rocker style aftermarket pushrods are three-piece, in other words, have separate pressed-in ends, you can shorten them if they're too long. Of course, if they're too short you're sol. So you can customize them somewhat.
Click to expand...


I'd have to go out and see if I have any 273 pushrods left. IIRC the ends were spot welded in.

And off the top of my head I can't remember the length difference.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Similar threads

Marko
Economical Steering column replacement...
Replies
0
Views
673
Marko
Marko
L
Economical easy to build engine dolly
Replies
6
Views
1K
abdywgn
abdywgn
R
How NOT to build an economical or powerful 'teen
2
Replies
42
Views
6K
crackedback
C
howco4
Economical Dash Covering
Replies
0
Views
522
howco4
howco4
R
A body big block oil pan replacement
Replies
5
Views
298
66fs
66fs
Back
Top Bottom