intergalactica
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Dec 16, 2006
- Messages
- 416
- Reaction score
- 30
Do lower control arm reinforcement plates (that have to be welded on) actually make a difference?
Do lower control arm reinforcement plates actually work?
- Thread starter intergalactica
- Start date
-
I would think tying it together like that would make it more ridged for sure .
intergalactica
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Dec 16, 2006
- Messages
- 416
- Reaction score
- 30
That’s the same thing I was thinking but the stock control arms appear to have a stout construction from the factory. Wouldn’t water collect up in there and ultimately cause some rust issues?
BigBlockMopar
BigBlockMember
With the big holes in them water will easily run out.
I've welded some homemade plates on my own LCA's, but while doing that I also wondered what or how much this would 'really' do or help, besides adding weight on an unsprung suspension part.
In hind sight I think a few 1" strips of metal welded across the LCA would have the same result, and be of less weight at the same time.
The LCA's on the later '73+ A-bodies get loaded on the side more because of the swaybar-brackets somewhere in the center.
I do think it's a bit of concern to keep the torsionbar adjuster 'tight' between the LCA-sides... So clamp them down a bit from the side before welding the plates on the LCAs.
I've welded some homemade plates on my own LCA's, but while doing that I also wondered what or how much this would 'really' do or help, besides adding weight on an unsprung suspension part.
In hind sight I think a few 1" strips of metal welded across the LCA would have the same result, and be of less weight at the same time.
The LCA's on the later '73+ A-bodies get loaded on the side more because of the swaybar-brackets somewhere in the center.
I do think it's a bit of concern to keep the torsionbar adjuster 'tight' between the LCA-sides... So clamp them down a bit from the side before welding the plates on the LCAs.
The reinforcing plates absolutely make a difference. Boxing the open end of the LCA adds quite a bit of stiffness, and the plates don't really add that much weight. The other thing is that the plates are very useful in keeping the ends of the LCA from spreading apart, which they can do over time. You can see that in @Jim Lusk 's youtube video on adding the plates
I go a step further when I do mine and add a strap right across the back of the LCA where the pivot is. Less flex=more predictable handling
You do have to pay attention to the location of the strap to make sure it doesn't interfere anywhere
I go a step further when I do mine and add a strap right across the back of the LCA where the pivot is. Less flex=more predictable handling
You do have to pay attention to the location of the strap to make sure it doesn't interfere anywhere
That same strap application could have been used in place of the fancy aftermarket plates too. I imagine those plates capturing gravel and such.
Well the straps will keep the ends from spreading apart, but they don't help the stiffness of the whole arm.
Even with the plates the LCA's are pretty much still open on both ends, and the holes are pretty substantial. I drive on gravel roads a decent amount and haven't really had any buildup. The plates are easy to make too if you don't want to pay for them, although for the price they get most places it's worth it for the time spent, especially if you bundle them in when you order all your other suspension rebuild parts so you're not paying shipping on just the plates.
intergalactica
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Dec 16, 2006
- Messages
- 416
- Reaction score
- 30
And this... ladies and gentlemen... is why I love FABO. Not only do I get detailed information that’s accurate but I also get to see an awesome video.
It's not a one thing you add and go "wow! what a difference!" type of deal. It's a part of a system of upgrades that, as a whole, make for a better handling car. If the LCA reinforcement was all you did, you wouldn't notice it. But as you add bigger torsion bars, better brakes, better tires, etc, you put more force on the suspension, so upgrading the LCA's makes sense. As does reinforcing the K member, adding frame connectors, etc.
BigBlockMopar
BigBlockMember
I agree the LCA reinforcing is not something you feel the difference off right away. At least I didn't, while I do notice most other things on the car as I daily drive it.
Something I did notice right away was a reinforcement to the steeringbox mount at the K-member.
I welded a fairly simple plate of iron to the mount, adding another connection from the mount to the K-member edge.
The result was a tighter feel in the steering wheel while cornering.
Something I did notice right away was a reinforcement to the steeringbox mount at the K-member.
I welded a fairly simple plate of iron to the mount, adding another connection from the mount to the K-member edge.
The result was a tighter feel in the steering wheel while cornering.
Depends on the type of driving you do.
If you drive like an old lady probably not but to like pushing the cornering ability especially with sticky tires then it becomes more of a must. You don't want a squirmy car in the corners at high speeds.
But it's one of those things why not do it cause it doesn't hurt to.
Plus all the little things add up. Is it gonna give you the biggest reward for effort no.
Tires and sway bars fall into that category.
If you drive like an old lady probably not but to like pushing the cornering ability especially with sticky tires then it becomes more of a must. You don't want a squirmy car in the corners at high speeds.
But it's one of those things why not do it cause it doesn't hurt to.
Plus all the little things add up. Is it gonna give you the biggest reward for effort no.
Tires and sway bars fall into that category.
autoxcuda
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Apr 6, 2007
- Messages
- 8,831
- Reaction score
- 3,778
I run 1" straps across the openings in the arm. Same strength, less weight. One under the sway bar mount to resist mount flexing the LCA.
The one under the strut rod bracket is probably better served between the bushing and middle of the LCA. I put it on the end cause I had another Mopar that was bent there.
Then I run the strap across the back.
Last edited:
Pretty sure that video was done by a FABO member.
I bought the plates from PST and put them on my LCA for the 69. I will eventually get them installed lol
I bought the plates from PST and put them on my LCA for the 69. I will eventually get them installed lol
pishta
I know I'm right....
you want seat of the pants results? Get some frame connectors. Bolt in or weld in (although I would tack the bolt ins too) that makes for a rigid ride and your door hinges will thank you.
How can they NOT help? Pretty cheap upgrade, too.
That video was made by Jim Lusk, if I am not mistaken. He is always gracious with sharing information.
That video was made by Jim Lusk, if I am not mistaken. He is always gracious with sharing information.
Thanks Rob, yes Jim Lusk, I couldnt remember his name.
I just used a 3" strip along the bottom.
I think the entire length is overkill. That strap at the end would have been a good idea as well.... Maybe I will do that later.
I braced my 8 3/4 and just did 2" welds every 6" inches... Some members mocked me but I felt if they were that weak to begin with they would have collapsed under any decent launch. Welding the entire length of the brace seemed uneccesary and possible harmful to the housing due to heat.
I think the entire length is overkill. That strap at the end would have been a good idea as well.... Maybe I will do that later.
I braced my 8 3/4 and just did 2" welds every 6" inches... Some members mocked me but I felt if they were that weak to begin with they would have collapsed under any decent launch. Welding the entire length of the brace seemed uneccesary and possible harmful to the housing due to heat.
Yer killin’ me! I put Jim’s name right in my post!!! It’s right there before I included the video! I even tagged him!
I love all of those parts except the subframe connectors. Those uscartool subframes are a colossal pain in the *** to weld in.
I’ve installed those and made my own tubular subframe connectors, and I’d need a whole lot of convincing to do the uscartool subframes again. The tubular subframe connectors work great too, and they’re much easier to install.
Thanks, sorry missed it.
Yer killin’ me! I put Jim’s name right in my post!!! It’s right there before I included the video! I even tagged him!
I love all of those parts except the subframe connectors. Those uscartool subframes are a colossal pain in the *** to weld in.
I’ve installed those and made my own tubular subframe connectors, and I’d need a whole lot of convincing to do the uscartool subframes again. The tubular subframe connectors work great too, and they’re much easier to install.
Yer killin’ me! I put Jim’s name right in my post!!! It’s right there before I included the video! I even tagged him!
I love all of those parts except the subframe connectors. Those uscartool subframes are a colossal pain in the *** to weld in.
I’ve installed those and made my own tubular subframe connectors, and I’d need a whole lot of convincing to do the uscartool subframes again. The tubular subframe connectors work great too, and they’re much easier to install.
I plan on adding tabs of the same thickness down the side of them and plug weld through the floor, more like the original frames.
Yeah but the original frames are spot welded every 1-1/2" to 2" or less for the their entire length. You'd have to add flanges to pretty much the whole length of the subframe connectors to do that, and it's not like the connectors are flat on top for the whole length. I mean, it would be easier welding flanges to the top of the connectors while on the ground, right side up, than seam welding the connectors to the floor under the car, but I still think you're underestimating how much work it would be. A couple of tabs here and there wouldn't cut it.
whitepunkonnitro
Well-Known Member
As a Drag Racer type, I can't possibly fathom why anybody would do this sort of stuff to their cars...BUT!
I've got a pair of LCA's with the plates welded in already. New bushings, greasable pins, real nice condition.
Also have super thick strut rods and solid steering turnbuckles.
Take $300 for the package if anyone is interested.
I've got a pair of LCA's with the plates welded in already. New bushings, greasable pins, real nice condition.
Also have super thick strut rods and solid steering turnbuckles.
Take $300 for the package if anyone is interested.
-
