NEW PST pivot shaft bolt sheared off. Can't get LCA out.

[hula]

I wasn't even to 100 ft-lbs probably around 80 and the sickening feeling of a bolt twisting off occurred. Now the shaft and LCA won't budge after hitting the LCA with a dead blow hammer and I was able to just tap the arm when I took it apart the first time.. The other shaft I noticed when it went in was really tight in the bushing. I'd rather just take them both out and put factory back in. I was finishing up today also. Thoughts on getting the arms out?

 

[hemi71x]

Hope it's not a dumb question to ask.
But you did remove the torsion bar out the back end?

Got one of these in the garage?

 

[hula]

Torsion bar is still in til I get a removal tool so I don’t jack it up. It was in when disassembled it the first time and came out with the arm with a couple of taps of the hammer on the arm. I’ve got a small maps torch.

 

[TrailBeast]

Disassembly time and a new pin and bushing if you don't have poly in it, that sucks.
That always concerned me about the greaseable pins.

Take the retainer clip out for the T bar and it might just slide back without the tool.
You can also use a pry bar and force the lower arm back instead of grabbing the bar itself.

 

[BigBlockMopar]

There's nothing holding the pivot shaft in the K-member anymore except the torsion bar.
Remove the clip at the rear and adjuster +UCA bumper and tap it all to the rear.
No need for torches or anything.

 

[67Dart273]

This is troubling as all hell. And you are SURE about the torque figure? I WOULD FOR CERTAIN be on the phone with the manufacturer

 

[hula]

The torque was right on and it’s a new craftsman torque wrench. I want both out now because I torqued the other side to 100 ft-lb. The torsion bar isn’t tapping back and I beat the dog **** out of the control arm with a dead blow and not a budge. When I get the tool I’ll remove the T bar then maybe pry the arm. I tried a torch and no go. How hard is it to drop the K member if it comes to that? I’m not happy with PST.

 

[hemi71x]

hula
You couldn't have gotten that PST pivot shaft into the crossmember in the first place without backing out the torsion bar, and the lower control arm.
It would seem to me you would know those parts have to be backed out, to get out the shaft, ether still attached to the LCA, or on it's own.
I'm having a hard time here, trying to figure out your removal technique, in the first place.
You can get everything out by getting a big pry bar, between the crossmember, and LCA, and prying rearward, as another have already replied to you.
Well anyway, wish you luck, with your repair.

 

[65wgn440]

You should maybe take a step back for a second. What BigBlock said is all you should need to do. NO HEAT. No k- member removal. Once you get the torsion bar back out, just beat on the broken stud with a good punch (or air hammer) to drive it out.

 

[72bluNblu]

Yeah a torsion bar tool is going to accomplish absolutely nothing that prying it back with the LCA won’t do. Sounds like you missed a step in the removal process. There’s nothing holding the LCA in other than the torsion bar.

If the torque and installation was correct then there was a manufacturing error with that pin. I’d contact @PST and see what they say.

I run greasable LCA pins on all of my cars, never had any problems with them. Mine are sourced from Firm Feel though. The set in my Challenger has over 70k miles on them. It’s not a design problem with the greasable pivot.

 

[hula]

I’ll clarify. I appreciate all the input also.

1. Pass. side LCA and broken pivot shaft still in K member.
2. I can not get the T bar out of the LCA and the C clip is off the aft end of the T bar.
3. I have struck the LCA with a dead blow hammer towards the rear of the car hopingbit would move with the T bar. It is not budging. The hammer is 4 lb and I don’t want to damage the LCA with a metal hammer. I am using appreciative force.
4. I don’t see how I’ll get a punch in there to knock the pivot shaft out from the front of the K member. There’s no way to get a good swing on it.
5. I know is there is nothing holding the LCA in when the C clip is out of the T bar but the pivot shafts are a way tighter fit than my factory ones that I tapped out. When and if get them out I’ll mic the diam to compare to the factory.
6. I’ve rebuilt and restored cars for over 30 plus years but this is my first mopar and torsion bar excursion.

 

[pishta]

Pry the LCA from the K rearward with a prybar, dont hit it with a hammer. Everything will slide back IF the clip is removed...check it twice.

 

[hula]

Ok, I’ll give it a shot tomorrow

 

[Dusterdenovo]

.

 

[ragtopfury]

Goes without saying, but I'll say it just in case.... make sure everything at the opposite end of the lower control arm is disconnected - strut rod, shock, ball joint/spindle...

 

[hula]

Ok, LCA came off with pry bar and shaft was still in LCA. Put a pipe wrench on it and took some effort to get it turning where i could eventually tap the pipe wrench and get it out. My old pilot shaft went in by hand no resistance and you can move it laterally in other words its not snug in the bushing. I noticed the taper was longer on the PST shaft and a little larger. Ill be removing the other side also. Are the bushings in the K member replaceable or is it a major PITA? I'd like to have greaseable shafts but I'm leery now. Recommendations?

 

[hula]

Yeah a torsion bar tool is going to accomplish absolutely nothing that prying it back with the LCA won’t do. Sounds like you missed a step in the removal process. There’s nothing holding the LCA in other than the torsion bar.

If the torque and installation was correct then there was a manufacturing error with that pin. I’d contact @PST and see what they say.

I run greasable LCA pins on all of my cars, never had any problems with them. Mine are sourced from Firm Feel though. The set in my Challenger has over 70k miles on them. It’s not a design problem with the greasable pivot.

Which greasable pins do you run and what do you torque them to?
Thanks
Hal

 

[MrCuda68]

Ok, LCA came off with pry bar and shaft was still in LCA. Put a pipe wrench on it and took some effort to get it turning where i could eventually tap the pipe wrench and get it out. My old pilot shaft went in by hand no resistance and you can move it laterally in other words its not snug in the bushing. I noticed the taper was longer on the PST shaft and a little larger. Ill be removing the other side also. Are the bushings in the K member replaceable or is it a major PITA? I'd like to have greaseable shafts but I'm leery now. Recommendations?
View attachment 1715170361 View attachment 1715170362 View attachment 1715170363 View attachment 1715170364

Looks to me like you ran out of thread.

 

[Dusterdenovo]

My old pilot shaft went in by hand no resistance and you can move it laterally in other words its not snug in the bushing. I noticed the taper was longer on the PST shaft and a little larger.

I had that EXACT problem with those shafts when I tried them a few years back. They wouldn't properly bottom out in either of my 2 K frames (the /6 unit in the car or the V8 unit on deck at the time) because they were too big to go all the way in, even with major reefing on the nut. I gave up before I wrecked something. Unfortunately PST couldn't comprehend what I was talking about (the shafts being NFG).

I asked for a refund but after 8 months of runaround, I just returned them in exchange for a couple of fender covers and used my original shafts with no further problems.

 

[hula]

View attachment 1715170382 View attachment 1715170383 Ok, I'm new to this forum and this is the first time I've ever used PST and I don't want anyone to think I'm just ranting to bash them. I went to find the new LCA rubber bushings they sent in my kit thinking I might use those. I pulled them out and noticed the one on the left looks like old rubber and has some grime around the edges and inside ie used. WTH. Now I'm wondering if the T bars I got from them are going to snap. This really concerns me.
View attachment 1715170380

 

[72bluNblu]

Ok, LCA came off with pry bar and shaft was still in LCA. Put a pipe wrench on it and took some effort to get it turning where i could eventually tap the pipe wrench and get it out. My old pilot shaft went in by hand no resistance and you can move it laterally in other words its not snug in the bushing. I noticed the taper was longer on the PST shaft and a little larger. Ill be removing the other side also. Are the bushings in the K member replaceable or is it a major PITA? I'd like to have greaseable shafts but I'm leery now. Recommendations?
View attachment 1715170361 View attachment 1715170362 View attachment 1715170363 View attachment 1715170364

Those are the wrong shafts. The threads bottomed out. They look almost like E-body pivots, but I’m away from my parts stash at the moment so I can’t comfirm. Needless to say they’re different from A-body pivots.

Bushings in the K-member? There aren’t any. The pivot mounts are just metal tubes welded inside the K frame. If they’re damaged, changing them involves cutting open the K frame, so yeah, PITA. Did you mean the LCA bushings? Cause that’s different.

Which greasable pins do you run and what do you torque them to?
Thanks
Hal

Mine are from Firm Feel Inc. They get torqued to 100 ft/lbs.

Looks to me like you ran out of thread.

Yup.

View attachment 1715170387 View attachment 1715170384 View attachment 1715170385 View attachment 1715170382 View attachment 1715170383 Ok, I'm new to this forum and this is the first time I've ever used PST and I don't want anyone to think I'm just ranting to bash them. I went to find the new LCA rubber bushings they sent in my kit thinking I might use those. I pulled them out and noticed the one on the left looks like old rubber and has some grime around the edges and inside ie used. WTH. Now I'm wondering if the T bars I got from them are going to snap. This really concerns me.
View attachment 1715170380

The poly bushings had nothing to do with this, so, the rubber bushings won’t solve it. This isn’t a reason not to use the poly bushings and greasable pivots, as long as you get the right pivots. Not sure if PST sent you E-body pivots or if their design is wrong, but that one you broke isn’t right for an A body either way.

As for that rubber bushing, it doesn’t look used but that rubber looks hammered. Like it’s deteriorated or UV damaged. I wouldn’t use it.

 

[hemi71x]

Picture for comparison.
A body shaft, on the top.
B & E body shaft on the bottom.

 

[hula]

Those are the wrong shafts. The threads bottomed out. They look almost like E-body pivots, but I’m away from my parts stash at the moment so I can’t comfirm. Needless to say they’re different from A-body pivots.

Bushings in the K-member? There aren’t any. The pivot mounts are just metal tubes welded inside the K frame. If they’re damaged, changing them involves cutting open the K frame, so yeah, PITA. Did you mean the LCA bushings? Cause that’s different.



Mine are from Firm Feel Inc. They get torqued to 100 ft/lbs.



Yup.



The poly bushings had nothing to do with this, so, the rubber bushings won’t solve it. This isn’t a reason not to use the poly bushings and greasable pivots, as long as you get the right pivots. Not sure if PST sent you E-body pivots or if their design is wrong, but that one you broke isn’t right for an A body either way.

As for that rubber bushing, it doesn’t look used but that rubber looks hammered. Like it’s deteriorated or UV damaged. I wouldn’t use it.

Yeah, my old pivots shafts rattle around in the K member now. In other words the diameter of the hole is bigger. Thanks for helping.

 

[Mrpatel]

I have had my own share of issues with my “super kit”, I was never able to get things resolved and returned what I hadn’t already damaged during installation. It’s extra frustrating for me as I paid duty as I live in Canada and had to cross the border to salvage what I could in my return. I will know next week how it works out. Frustrating experience to say the least.

 

[Hyper_pak]

Word of caution on a click wrench. My Craftsman , years ago, broke a couple of 440 head bolts when it was new. I took it to work, we had a Cal Lab, it was 23 lbs high at the setting of 70. They took the lead out of the end, adjusted the mechanism and resealed it. Now I check it every time I use it with my old Beam Wrench. Not that I think you over torqued it, but you need to check your wrench just for piece of mind. IMO.