Stop in for a cup of coffee

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360DartGT66 said:
It's a Purple Shaft P4452992, 238/238@50, 110 LSA. Mopar Perf. ''Purple Shaft'' Hydraulic Camshaft Kit I haven't really got enough knowledge to set timing, all i know is from Roadkill. And here, obviously. :)
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Something around 18* BTDC initial, 800 rpm or under at idle, will be a reasonable starting point with that cam. Full mechanical advance should bring it around 32 - 36* between 2800 and 5000 rpm. Adjust that based on drag strip finish speed or dyno.

Its still not going to be a great cam for use with vacuum booster, even with a reseviour.
 
360DartGT66 said:
Hey folks!

Good to see you gathering. My monday was pretty weird. I start at 11 and today was teacher's conference/planning in the afternoon so I got htere at eleven, had lunch and talked a bit with my colleagues, showed the video of my test drive, had an ice cream cone and a cup of coffee and rode my bike back home. :)
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That's sounds like a NICE day.
 
Mattax said:
Something around 18* BTDC initial, 800 rpm or under at idle, will be a reasonable starting point with that cam. Full mechanical advance should bring it around 32 - 36* between 2800 and 5000 rpm. Adjust that based on drag strip finish speed or dyno.

Its still not going to be a great cam for use with vacuum booster, even with a reseviour.
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Great, thanks! I'll see if I can't get that done today. In fact, why don't I go down there now? Most people are at work so maybe I won't be disturbing that many? :rolleyes:
 
ZMan67S said:
That's sounds like a NICE day.
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It sure is!

Btw, I don't believe we've met. Nice to meet you. I'm Anders and I live in Sweden. I used to hang here all the time but I've been sort of absent last 6-9 months. Used to not work, working now. Makes a big hole in your spare time. :)
 
ZMan67S said:
I go pick up the 55 Chevy today. Some of you might of seen my post last week explaining the restoration shop has shut down. Lucky for me he was able to finish my car. Many of the 52 cars at the shop weren't so lucky. The main reason he's closing is that his work force had dropped to two, and finding qualified experienced people who want to work has become difficult. Last week he had one go in for surgery and two quit because they were going to start working a little OT to catch up.

Hopefully he can regroup in a couple months and open a smaller place. He has SO much talent, over 200 National awards. Today, I'll be happy, but somewhat sad for him and his wife when I pick up the car.
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Please post pics, really like that year, even better than 57. My Dad had one when I was growing up, had the /6, my Mom talked him into selling it when I started talking about a 350 doh!!! Too bad about your resto shop, hope the guy finds some good people.
 
360DartGT66 said:
I suspect the whole setup needs to be heated up properly to burn grease off and seat the pads but I'm not going out on the freeway like this. :D
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:thumbsup:
360DartGT66 said:
They are nice and firm so I think they are bled enough. Not sure about the rear but I guess that won't make a huge difference. The pads are what the PO bought, I guess. No idea what they are and they'd been in a box full of car parts for seven years when I got the car. Plus the rotors were probably greasy when I went out. That's how I roll. :D
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Rear brakes can make a huse difference on initial application and light braking. It's only under hard braking that additional weight shifts forward. Static weight distribution on these cars is 53 - 58% on the front. That means over 40% is on the rear...

Well, with grease and oil on the linings and contact surfaces you're going to keep rolling, and rolling and rolling.:eek::poke::lol:
It probably won't burn off. You can try to remove it with brake cleaner, but depending on the lining and what contaminated them, they may be trash.

The side of the linings or the back of the pad will have a number - usually. The number is the Edge Code for the manufacturer, the lining type, and its friction rating.
Most old school linings are pretty much ready to go to work.
Many of the newer high performance linings require a procedure to bed them in.
 
Mattax said:
:thumbsup:

Rear brakes can make a huse difference on initial application and light braking. It's only under hard braking that additional weight shifts forward. Static weight distribution on these cars is 53 - 58% on the front. That means over 40% is on the rear...

Well, with grease and oil on the linings and contact surfaces you're going to keep rolling, and rolling and rolling.:eek::poke::lol:
It probably won't burn off. You can try to remove it with brake cleaner, but depending on the lining and what contaminated them, they may be trash.

The side of the linings or the back of the pad will have a number - usually. The number is the Edge Code for the manufacturer, the lining type, and its friction rating.
Most old school linings are pretty much ready to go to work.
Many of the newer high performance linings require a procedure to bed them in.
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Right. Well I guess being careful with brake surfaces actually DOES pay off. Who knew. :)

I'll take a look at what I have and see whether the rears are adjusted. I haven't touched the rear axle at all but it's been renovated so anything could be going on there.

And you're right about the brake ratio, of course.
 
360DartGT66 said:
It sure is!

Btw, I don't believe we've met. Nice to meet you. I'm Anders and I live in Sweden. I used to hang here all the time but I've been sort of absent last 6-9 months. Used to not work, working now. Makes a big hole in your spare time. :)
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Nice to meet you too. I've been around here the last few months. My wife has relatives who live in Sweden. I'm not sure where, Northern end I think.
 
360DartGT66 said:
Great, thanks! I'll see if I can't get that done today. In fact, why don't I go down there now? Most people are at work so maybe I won't be disturbing that many? :rolleyes:
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Its cheaper too when there's no one there. ;)
LOL

Yea get initial where its happy and deal with top end later.
With 18* initial use ported vac if you hook up the vacuum advance at this time.
Later, if you find the mechanical curve with that distributor is too advanced - like 40 or 45* by 2500 or 3000 rpm, then the timing must be set lower - in which case, use the manifold vacuum to get the timing at idle.
 
Mattax said:
:thumbsup:

Rear brakes can make a huse difference on initial application and light braking. It's only under hard braking that additional weight shifts forward. Static weight distribution on these cars is 53 - 58% on the front. That means over 40% is on the rear...

Well, with grease and oil on the linings and contact surfaces you're going to keep rolling, and rolling and rolling.:eek::poke::lol:
It probably won't burn off. You can try to remove it with brake cleaner, but depending on the lining and what contaminated them, they may be trash.

The side of the linings or the back of the pad will have a number - usually. The number is the Edge Code for the manufacturer, the lining type, and its friction rating.
Most old school linings are pretty much ready to go to work.
Many of the newer high performance linings require a procedure to bed them in.
Click to expand...
Sorry, i have to disagree. Old school linings needed “burnishing” or seating or bedding in.
New stuff is ready to go out of the box. That is, if they are being installed with new rotors/drums.
There are a variety of reasons for
Poor braking.
Brake shoes,new may not contact drum properly, would have to set loose shoe in drum to check.
Grease on rotors-brakes will lock up or cause a hard pull if only one side is greasy.
Cleaning-brake cleaner,and dry off. Heat with a torch to bring grease or oil to surface and wipe off with a dry rag.
 
Mopar Tim said:
The fence Mitch is building would not be code here. At all. Can be crawled under/ over.
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Mopar Tim said:
The fence Mitch is building would not be code here. At all. Can be crawled under/ over.
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Nope..
0521180734.jpg
 
Google was so slow especially on FABO. It would time out. Other sites not a problem.
 
I went to town Friday morning and bought paint for the engine bay on Victoria and a friend shows up needing a driver for another tractor to help move brush and burn, so I never got back to under hood prep. Maybe today I can get something dun :)
 
Tooljunkie said:
Sorry, i have to disagree. Old school linings needed “burnishing” or seating or bedding in.
New stuff is ready to go out of the box. That is, if they are being installed with new rotors/drums.
There are a variety of reasons for
Poor braking.
Brake shoes,new may not contact drum properly, would have to set loose shoe in drum to check.
Grease on rotors-brakes will lock up or cause a hard pull if only one side is greasy.
Cleaning-brake cleaner,and dry off. Heat with a torch to bring grease or oil to surface and wipe off with a dry rag.
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Not going to disagree with that, the seating; but not the 'burning in' which many people used to think was good - you know, adjust until tight and drive them that way. The new stuff I'm talking about is the very picky procedures insisted upon by the high performance and race linings that need material transfered to the metal. Many won't work with if there's material from a different type of lining on the disks. Its one reason I went with Porterfield over EBC or Carbotech.

I've not tried the heating up trick. I'll take your word it works. Worst contamination I've generally dealt with has been older, half worn shoes with where an axle seal or brake cylinder was leaking.
 
ZMan67S said:
Nice to meet you too. I've been around here the last few months. My wife has relatives who live in Sweden. I'm not sure where, Northern end I think.
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Anders her kin live in Goteberg, last name Lundgren.
 
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