Try the following, make up a temporary wire. disconnect the VR IGN connection, and connect it direct to battery (or at starter relay "big stud) temporarily. See if this tames the surge.
if not stab a meter probe onto the battery NEG post and the other into the mounting flange of the VR. You want very low, lower the better, zero volts is perfect. If not, the grounding needs improvement.
Do that measurement with engine running fast to simulate "low to medium cruise" and first with all accessories off, and again with lights heater, whatever loads you can bring on powered on.
If this does NOT seem to be the problem, have a look at the alternator brushes and slip rings. Worn, dirty/ greasy, gummed up, stuck, etc
If that is not the case replace the VR
This may mean that you have poor grounding between battery and VR. What year? This the electronic 70/ later or mechanical 69/ earlier?
If it's mechanical it may just be out of calibration, if you replace it you will likely get an electronic "look alike" replacement
What did the ground voltage test I outlined earlier show?
You need the following:
VR ground MUST be at same voltage as battery NEG
VR power/ sense MUST be at same voltage as battery POS
If these two are met and the voltage still charges high (over 14) then either you have a wiring problem causing the field to be bypassed, the VR is out of calibration, or the battery is bad
Next, if you have a known good battery out of something else, might swap in long enough to see if it changes
I am confused are you talking about Voltage or OHM'S?
I guess you mean the "14." 14 V is nominal correct battery voltage. VR is temperature compensated so they vary some, but with battery "up and normal" and with engine running at anything above low cruise, battery should run about 13.8--14.2V. Not below 13.5, and not above 14.5V
So it still pulsates, or no? It may have taken some time for the battery to normalize
Might want to install a relay from the starter relay battery post to the voltage regulator ignition terminal. I have found that dirty ignition switch contacts or bulkhead connection issues cause the ignition voltage at the regulator to fluctuate therfothe causing the battery charge voltage to fluctuate and ultimately causing the flickering/ pulsing light syndrome.It does pulsates, but it is a lot better.. Thanks
Here's a link to FABO thread with a diagram I made showing you how to connect it.
Flickering or pulstating Headlights
Here's a link to FABO thread with a diagram I made showing you how to connect it.
Flickering or pulstating Headlights
Actually I would not do it that way. I'd add a relay, OK, but cut the blue "run" wire coming out of the bulkhead. Use the wire from the bulkhead for the trigger, and use the relay to feed all the loads the key "did" feed. If there is a voltage drop problem, it affects everything under the hood fed by that line.
Also a good idea to put a fuse link or breaker for the supply line.......something Ma did not do!!![/QUOTE
Yeah you're right. I will modify the diagram.
Might want to install a relay from the starter relay battery post to the voltage regulator ignition terminal. I have found that dirty ignition switch contacts or bulkhead connection issues cause the ignition voltage at the regulator to fluctuate therfothe causing the battery charge voltage to fluctuate and ultimately causing the flickering/ pulsing light syndrome.
Still messing with it.
I swapped alternator at no charge, ran a ground wire from the engine block to the base of the regulator and it is bouncing worse than ever. What do you use for the relay you suggested ???
We all mess, me included. Finding the ills can be a bit ongoing with 50 year old cars. The voltmeter helps for a quick chase.
With a schematic from the service manual, the bulkhead wiring and terminals can be identified. Terminals are available from waytek wire. The added relay helps stabilize regulation , but without fixing the drops, the load voltage may still fluctuate.