only because I am putting a modern hemi in my 65 dart. Just thinking if there is a smaller on the market I would look into it because I am going to be replacing mine anyways.There aren’t many options available for a manual box anyway. There’s the stock manual boxes, the new reproductions of the original style boxes being sold by PST, and the Flaming River manual box.
The case on the Flaming River box is shaped a little differently than the factory box, but if anything it’s bigger than the originals in a few spots. I’ve got one in my Duster, it’s definitely not any smaller than the originals are overall.
I assume the reproductions of the original boxes are the same size as the originals, maybe @PST can confirm that.
Why the focus on the size of the manual steering box?
I will go to a rack and pinion setup if I need to. But I have a coil over conversion right now and bought it because I am sure I can make the hemi fit with a box.I believe its the 2004 jeep box that's been converted to fit our year and model cars, I went to rack and pinion on my 65 Plymouth.
I will go to a rack and pinion setup if I need to. But I have a coil over conversion right now and bought it because I am sure I can make the hemi fit with a box.
. Uses stock steering and gets rid of the torsion bars for added room.What coil over conversion uses the stock steering box? That’s probably the single biggest reason to do a coil over conversion, front steer rack and pinion without the Ackerman disaster you get trying to convert the Mopar rear steer suspension to a rack. Everything else can be done with torsion bars and proper tuning.
They mount using a bolt through the old shock hole on the support brace of the car. So Likely not.can those shock hoops support standard stud mount shocks?
. Ya not sure. My guess is no due to why to much movement without the support of the stock mount.oof, Good to know. Wonder if the shock stud could be used through this hole for the support also? Just asking because I ditched the inners and thought these would be cleaner than a cageless J-bar with shock mount welded on.
. Uses stock steering and gets rid of the torsion bars for added room.
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. I am well aware of what will be required if I change it. Lca mounts just like the factory and now has a added support mount at the pivot. Not really sure on how that makes a ton of difference. I know you know way more about this stuff then me that is for sure. So I can’t and will not argue you about it. What is the reason you dislike the design of the lower lca? I do know that what I give for this kit was pennies for what it costs for a full k member setup. I have seen just one early a body with a modern hemi using a steering box. I felt if he/they could do it, so could I. Worst come to worst. I ending up buying a full front end kit.Oh I remember those kits now. I still really dislike that LCA mounting design, there's just no way that's a good idea for use on a street car.
Seems like a full K member replacement like the HDK or RMS would be the way to go. Better geometry (not mixing and matching coil overs and stock parts), rack and pinion, engine mounts to fit the late model hemi- the extra cost would be well worth it.
Also, just FYI, to go to a rack you'd basically have to start over. Since that kit keeps all of the stock steering components and spindles, you'd have the same serious Ackerman issues converting to a rack and pinion as a stock Mopar.
There aren’t many options available for a manual box anyway. There’s the stock manual boxes, the new reproductions of the original style boxes being sold by PST, and the Flaming River manual box.
The case on the Flaming River box is shaped a little differently than the factory box, but if anything it’s bigger than the originals in a few spots. I’ve got one in my Duster, it’s definitely not any smaller than the originals are overall.
I assume the reproductions of the original boxes are the same size as the originals, maybe @PST can confirm that.
Why the focus on the size of the manual steering box?
Good to know thanks guys.72bluNblu is correct the box that we sell is a reproductions of the original boxes
Thanks
James From
. I am well aware of what will be required if I change it. Lca mounts just like the factory and now has a added support mount at the pivot. Not really sure on how that makes a ton of difference. I know you know way more about this stuff then me that is for sure. So I can’t and will not argue you about it. What is the reason you dislike the design of the lower lca? I do know that what I give for this kit was pennies for what it costs for a full k member setup. I have seen just one early a body with a modern hemi using a steering box. I felt if he/they could do it, so could I. Worst come to worst. I ending up buying a full front end kit.
Is there a support that gets welded or bolted to the frame to support the rear of that extended LCA pin? There wasn't one on the other kits I've seen. That's the biggest issue I have with it.
Having the torsion bar back there actually does add support to the back of the LCA in the factory design. It's not fully supported on that side, but it keeps the LCA from just being completely cantilevered off the factory LCA pin tubes. That's the issue with the other design I've seen, the torsion bar is removed but nothing replaces it. So the factory pin tubes support everything on a full cantilever. We already know the factory pin mounts were prone to failure inside the K member even with just the stock parts. This LCA design lengthens the pin with some kind of extension, so you add more leverage to generate force on the pin tubes. There's no way I'd run them without gusseting the K member, even if there is an added bracket somewhere behind the new LCA to support the other end of the pins.
There is a brace that bolts or welds to the frame with a triangulated bracket. The length of the replacement pivot pin isn't much longer than the stock pivot pins, off the top of my head it's probably an inch longer.
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Thanks Jeremy.There is a brace that bolts or welds to the frame with a triangulated bracket. The length of the replacement pivot pin isn't much longer than the stock pivot pins, off the top of my head it's probably an inch longer.
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