What Are You Doing To/With Your Car Today?

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Got the 440 fired up today. No smoke and pretty smooth idle with a little lope. I put my scope in the spark plug hole and didn't see any marks on the flat top pistons. It must have low run time because there is still some shine on the piston. Not sure what was done inside. The guy I got it from found some papers from the previous owner. It has a Edelbrock Performance kit with a 2192 cam, intake and carb. Probably puts out about 427 ft lbs torque. Its going in my 64 D100.
 
BrianT said:
Well, we aren't having Hawaii weather but it's supposed to be 60 degrees in the Midwest today so I'm gonna drive the Dart to meet a buddy for lunch. We get together around New Year's every year and catch up over a couple of beers.
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Turned out to be an awesome day unless you were rooting for the Texans!
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Got half the split installed today. If I had known I was going to do this, I would have put the FlowMaster banner a little to the right. Easy to move though. Now on to the Electrical and mounting the Heat pump.

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I just got this removed from a parts car. I have a 70 Challenger that has a bad crossmember and rails. This is the replacement for it. It needs some touch up but it is solid. It was from a car that was turned into a failed race car, hence parts car!

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gdrill said:
I just got this removed from a parts car. I have a 70 Challenger that has a bad crossmember and rails. This is the replacement for it. It needs some touch up but it is solid. It was from a car that was turned into a failed race car, hence parts car!

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Looks good gdrill the hard part I think would be keeping it straight when welding it together.
 
Actually, "when" I get to it, it won't be too bad. On the car I will drill out the spot welds and remove the structure basically the same. That will leave the inners and rad support in position. Then It will mostly be a case of fit it in. Measurements by the hundreds! But overall, easier than most would think.
 
Got the transmission mount done yesterday, pass side engine mount done today. Gotta get a biscuit mount to finish the driver's side mount, and order the header pieces to get them fabbed up.
 
gdrill said:
Actually, "when" I get to it, it won't be too bad. On the car I will drill out the spot welds and remove the structure basically the same. That will leave the inners and rad support in position. Then It will mostly be a case of fit it in. Measurements by the hundreds! But overall, easier than most would think.
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Things were easier back in the old days the new cars are not able to get straight with a tape measure or tram gauge.
Nice job you are doing I would trust your work any time.
 
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Got some wiring, electrical and some brake lines in. Still need to bench bleed MC and waiting on my prop valve
 
Prop valve came in today from ebag. Cleaned it up and flushed it out good with brake cleaner. Installed the
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rest of the lines. Weird thing with my inline tube kit. Rear section was 2 pieces instead of one. Maybe setup that way for an adj prop valve option?
 
daves66valiant said:
Prop valve came in today from ebag. Cleaned it up and flushed it out good with brake cleaner. Installed theView attachment 1715272723 rest of the lines. Weird thing with my inline tube kit. Rear section was 2 pieces instead of one. Maybe setup that way for an adj prop valve option?
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Here's where it gets fun Dave.
Now you have to do research on 68-69 and 70- up disc brake A body cars. I will look at my 70 this morning to see if I have the rear distribution block. I believe 70 up, the rear block wasn't used, and it was built into the main distribution block. This is a pic of a 69 Dart.

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Johnny Dart said:
Here's where it gets fun Dave.
Now you have to do research on 68-69 and 70- up disc brake A body cars. I will look at my 70 this morning to see if I have the rear distribution block. I believe 70 up, the rear block wasn't used, and it was built into the main distribution block. This is a pic of a 69 Dart.

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Thanks, I'm converting to disc, and was going to use an adjustable valve going to the rear. I'll have to check into those blocks.
 
n.y.340 dart said:
Yes Johnny Dart you are correct 70 and up one block
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Okay. Guess I’ll head down to the ol parts store and pick up a union and a coupler for the 7/16x24 nut to 3/8x24.

My prop valve is a 73’ so I don’t need the rear distribution block I guess
 
Disc Brake Hold Off Valve 68-69

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Looks like this is the piece I would need to be original along with the K/H prop valve
 
daves66valiant said:
Disc Brake Hold Off Valve 68-69

View attachment 1715272813 Looks like this is the piece I would need to be original along with the K/H prop valve
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This is the Proportioning/hold off valve. The two piece design separated the front distribution block w/switch and the valve.
Your 73 has the Prop valve built in to the rear line outlet of the one piece block w/switch.
Don't add a second one. A coupler should be fine to connect the lines.
 
What yall think? Too rich for the lowly a-body? The pieces aren't adhered yet just placed for the preview. Grand daughter does like and it is her car now. So... on to conquering the glove box trim.

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I changed my mind, drilled the crossmember off the rails and prepped everything for install.The driver side needed some inner rocker repair due to a mouse nest, but the pass is good. Just waiting on my son to get home from work with a bent / shaped chunk to repair the frame ends with. It will be on it's own torsion bars tonight.

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qkcuda said:
Didn't notice at first that you moved the heater controls down. Neat
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I did that several years ago, about the same time the aftermarket reproduction bezels came out. Then came the OEM radio to stereo conversions.
I have one advantage... My instrument panel R&R is nearly as easy as a standard panel.
 
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