Dash lighting

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Red63440

Olddawg
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Is the replacement bulb a number 158 for the dash board lighting on a 1968 Barracuda?
 
I think the 158 is the stock bulb, but a lot of people use 194 bulbs because they are a little brighter
 
The original bulb no's are listed in the electrical section of the factory manual. You can download quite a few for free from MyMopar. Sometimes you have to "settle" for Dodge (Dart, etc) instead of Plymouth.
 
The original bulb no's are listed in the electrical section of the factory manual. You can download quite a few for free from MyMopar. Sometimes you have to "settle" for Dodge (Dart, etc) instead of Plymouth.
Thanks!
 
Ok, the issue is that the light sockets that hold the bulbs are falling out of the printed circuit board. I know that the drop in 2 slots and then rotate but he is saying that even with that done they are falling out. Was there a standard size or could they have been mixed up with another year that was smaller??
 
Yeah, there are two sizes and the smaller one is the most common for later models. Take an original to oreilly & have them match it up. That’s what I did. I ordered some online & had the same thing happen.
 
Mike, do you know how many there are on the back of the panel, I really don't think he has an O'reilly that he can go to.....he is in Montana.
 
2 turn signals, 2 warning lights, & 4 dash lights I think. That would make 8. I don’t remember the part number. Maybe someone else on the site knows it.
 
We will see if someone drops in with some info.....
Ok, what I found is that the hole for the socket is about 5/8" diameter, does that sound right?
 
Last edited:
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5/8 is correct. These sockets have only 2 tiny tangs that hold them in the board and the 2 electrical contacts are working in opposition to those. One tang breaks off, the socket falls out.
Some are very difficult to get to. If I pull a panel I replace all 8 bulbs and sockets. I go ahead and pay the price for quality brand sockets too.
 
5/8 is correct. These sockets have only 2 tiny tangs that hold them in the board and the 2 electrical contacts are working in opposition to those. One tang breaks off, the socket falls out.
Some are very difficult to get to. If I pull a panel I replace all 8 bulbs and sockets. I go ahead and pay the price for quality brand sockets too.
 
Ordered a set of 10 for 5/8" diameter hole., the dash hasn't been put in yet because of the problem with the sockets so I am sure he will be thrilled when the package shows up.
 
One other thing you might consider is going to LED bulbs. I bought some 3 sided ones (one on the top and two on the sides) and they really put out a lot more light. You have to get them in the right direction as they only work one way.

The only negative is that you dash light dimmer won’t work unless there is another bulb (like the radio light) hooked up. They will be bright all the time. I ordered them on Amazon also.
 
Think seriously about yanking the dash and doing a "mini overhaul". After all, how old, again, is it?

Problems:

Obviously bulbs and sockets, weak socket springs and contact fingers and corrosion.

CORROSION on the PC board where the sockets contact. Use an eraser to buff up the copper

Harness connector pins: These should be soldered especially if any looseness

Gauge IVR (voltage limiter) Replace with an aftermarket solid state one, and solder jumpers across from the PC board to the contact fingers in the board where the IVR inserts. These lose contact

Gauge studs: These are "fake" nuts and get loose and corroded. Loosen/ tighten them several times to scrub corrosion off the copper, and consider replacing the nuts

Here's an old but very valid thread on doing PC board repairs:

Printed circuit pins repair


While you are at it read the MAD article about the ammeter problems and have a GOOD look at the ammeter wires and connections, and look for any heat damage/ looseness

Catalog
 
Think seriously about yanking the dash and doing a "mini overhaul". After all, how old, again, is it?

Problems:

Obviously bulbs and sockets, weak socket springs and contact fingers and corrosion.

CORROSION on the PC board where the sockets contact. Use an eraser to buff up the copper

Harness connector pins: These should be soldered especially if any looseness

Gauge IVR (voltage limiter) Replace with an aftermarket solid state one, and solder jumpers across from the PC board to the contact fingers in the board where the IVR inserts. These lose contact

Gauge studs: These are "fake" nuts and get loose and corroded. Loosen/ tighten them several times to scrub corrosion off the copper, and consider replacing the nuts

Here's an old but very valid thread on doing PC board repairs:

Printed circuit pins repair


While you are at it read the MAD article about the ammeter problems and have a GOOD look at the ammeter wires and connections, and look for any heat damage/ looseness

Catalog

The dash has been restored, he was in the process of getting the sockets put in and found they were incorrect. He already has new bulbs but told me that they were falling out.
 
Ordered a set of 10 for 5/8" diameter hole., the dash hasn't been put in yet because of the problem with the sockets so I am sure he will be thrilled when the package shows up.
Sorry but I don't think quality sockets come in a package of 10. That sounds like the ebay offering that I bought. No problem for about 3 years, but this car is rarely driven. First one broke/fell out was illumination left of speedo, then right turn indicator failure, then illumination just below that turn indicator. Found that one on the floor mat. So I replaced all of them with individually packaged Standard brand about 2 years ago. Fingers crossed.
 
Back to the Chinesium part issue again. Seems like that permeates everything. Even buying name brand parts may not help anymore since a lot of those once reputable companies have been sold and retain only the name, or they have moved production offshore to maximize the almighty dollar.
 
If you go led's in dash, that may lead to other lighting issues. We swapped and they work intermittently.
Do the HL relay upgrade(do a search here) and it helps dash lights out as well.
Good luck
 
Sorry but I don't think quality sockets come in a package of 10. That sounds like the ebay offering that I bought. No problem for about 3 years, but this car is rarely driven. First one broke/fell out was illumination left of speedo, then right turn indicator failure, then illumination just below that turn indicator. Found that one on the floor mat. So I replaced all of them with individually packaged Standard brand about 2 years ago. Fingers crossed.

Let’s put it this way, I bought 10 bulb sockets that were made in the USA, not China, not Indonesia or any other foreign country. If you put them all in one package you will find you have a package of 10. Nuff said.....
 
Back to the Chinesium part issue again. Seems like that permeates everything. Even buying name brand parts may not help anymore since a lot of those once reputable companies have been sold and retain only the name, or they have moved production offshore to maximize the almighty dollar.
The parts I bought are “made” in the USA, not over seas and then packaged here. Of course I could have purchased 3 sockets with 3 bulbs from a well known MoPar supplier for about $17.00 because we all know it’s about fair pricing.........give me a break! Did you ever ask yourself just how many parts US companies buy that are made outside of this country and then put their own part numbers on, you know the ones with a Penta Star on that cost you big bucks. Not trying to break anyone’s balls but to each his own.
 
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