340 to 372 stroker kit

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again, I ask what and where is the cross over that journal diameter /bearing speed becomes a major consideration.....Personally, I don't think of a 6000rpm blast as the least bit stressful.......good oil always makes sense and knowing how stable/resistant the multi vis package is to break down.

The way I understand it is its a matter of how much abuse (bearing speed) the oil can handle before it starts to degrade. So its really more of a lubrication problem that a parts deal.

I look at it from an endurance engine POV rather than 10 second blasts.

I never really paid much attention this until I built a couple Olds engines and the guys who love those deals are always trying to fix the issues the large main bearings create...

Regarding using the small Honda journals...

Since I'm on such a tight budget with anything I build it's a no brainer for me to grind a crank down to 1.88 or 1.85 to be able to buy used uber high quality rods that are better than any of the import stuff and cheaper, too.

My late friend Jim worked for Roush racing for 8 years as a crank specialist. He worked directly with Lentz developing their Nascar stuff that they used in the Cup engines.

When I told him what these rods, Ti valves and bits were selling for on fleabay and other sites he jumped on the idea of using them in the hot rod stuff he was building on the side. He assured me 1,000 hp was a safe power level for these parts and, when questioned about crank overlap, he told me not to worry about it... it was a non factor in the stuff I was building.

My Pankl rods came from Richard Childress Racing as did the Ti valves.
I bought these rods for as little as $85.00/set and Xceledyne Ti valves for $75/set. Costs me about $60.00 extra to grind a crank down to 1.85 rather than .030 undersize... takes more time and material. The valves need to be shortened and grooved, too. About $12.00 per valve. They are 6 and 7 mm stems. Lash caps are required. You also need different material for the valve seats Because iron is hard on titanium valves.

And I need a custom piston too, at around $800.00 per my latest price quote. Because of my stroke and compression requirements I need those anyway so its a non factor.

So I wind up using rods that are as light as 540 grams (compared to 340 rods at 740) and pistons under 500 grams compared to the Ross that I have now @ 710 grams. Makes for a happier revving engine which I need.

The guys in this class I run have everything from 650 hp 360 spec motors to $40,000 850 hp RY45's. I need all the help I can muster.

You needs are likely different.
 
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The way I understand it is its a matter of how much abuse (bearing speed) the oil can handle before it starts to degrade. So its really more of a lubrication problem that a parts deal.

I look at it from an endurance engine POV rather than 10 second blasts.

I never really paid much attention this until I built a couple Olds engines and the guys who love those deals are always trying to fix the issues the large main bearings create...

Regarding using the small Honda journals...

Since I'm on such a tight budget with anything I build it's a no brainer for me to grind a crank down to 1.88 or 1.85 to be able to buy used uber high quality rods that are better than any of the import stuff and cheaper, too.

My late friend Jim worked for Roush racing for 8 years as a crank specialist. He worked directly with Lentz developing their Nascar stuff that they used in the Cup engines.

When I told him what these rods, Ti valves and bits were selling for on fleabay and other sites he jumped on the idea of using them in the hot rod stuff he was building on the side. He assured me 1,000 hp was a safe power level for these parts and, when questioned about crank overlap, he told me not to worry about it... it was a non factor in the stuff I was building.

My Pankl rods came from Richard Childress Racing as did the Ti valves.
I bought these rods for as little as $85.00/set and Xceledyne Ti valves for $75/set. Costs me about $60.00 extra to grind a crank down to 1.85 rather than .030 undersize... takes more time and material. The valves need to be shortened and grooved, too. About $12.00 per valve. They are 6 and 7 mm stems. Lash caps are required. You also need different material for the valve seats Because iron is hard on titanium valves.

And I need a custom piston too, at around $800.00 per my latest price quote. Because of my stroke and compression requirements I need those anyway so its a non factor.

So I wind up using rods that are as light as 540 grams (compared to 340 rods at 740) and pistons under 500 grams compared to the Ross that I have now @ 710 grams. Makes for a happier revving engine which I need.

The guys in this class I run have everything from 650 hp 360 spec motors to $40,000 850 hp RY45's. I need all the help I can muster.

You needs are likely different.
I thought grinding a crankshaft down that much cuts through the surface hardness.?.
Do you leave it that way or nitride it? Shot peen the crankshaft?
Are you talking about grinding down a CAST IRON 360 crankshaft or 4340 after market crankshaft? @Krooser
 
Thank you all for your help and input.
Below is what the engine builder, my father, and myself have decided on.
Parts are ordered. Will be a little while yet but excited about how it will turn out.


AUTOTEC 4032 PREMIUM FORGED DISH PISTONS
TOTAL SEAL PLASMA MOLY PISTON RINGS
SCAT 4340 FORGED STEEL CRANKSHAFT
SCAT 4340 FORGED I-BEAM CONNECTING RODS W/ ARP 7/16 CAP SCREWS
CLEVITE H-SERIES HEAT TREATED MAIN BEARING SET
CLEVITE H-SERIES HEAT TREATED ROD BEARINGS
INTERNALLY BALANCED ASSEMBLY

Compression 10.59
Bore 4.1
Stroke 3.58
Rod Length 6.123
Piston Comp. Height 1.667
Piston Dome cc -14.3
Head Comb. Chamber cc 55
Head Gasket Thickness 0.04
Block Deck Height 9.593
Cylinders 8
Services
Harland Sharp Heavy-Duty Roller Rocker Kit for Performance W2 Heads
S70025W2K
Rocker Arms, Shaft Mount, 1.5 Ratio, Aluminum, Roller Rockers
Rocker Arm Offset: .775 in.
 
Was considering the Quick Fuel Brawler Race Series BR-67331
We were thinking the 750 cfm should be large enough and work well for a street car
Anyone have opinions on it?
 
Logan...you want to use your Demon for the occasional nice weather trip to work and Cruz nights.
I think the 428 Ford Cobra Jet came with a 735 cfm and some stock mopar 440 's were less than 700 cfm.
You'll be fine with an Edelbrock 650 Thunder.
 
Logan...you want to use your Demon for the occasional nice weather trip to work and Cruz nights.
I think the 428 Ford Cobra Jet came with a 735 cfm and some stock mopar 440 's were less than 700 cfm.
You'll be fine with an Edelbrock 650 Thunder.
IDK about the Ford but the HP 440 MoPars came with 750 Carters.

On your engine (378 - 450-500hp)
Street = 750
Street strip = 850
950 If it were a strip only & more than an actual 500 hp.
(or really close to it)
 
Thank you all for your help and input.
Below is what the engine builder, my father, and myself have decided on.
Parts are ordered. Will be a little while yet but excited about how it will turn out.


AUTOTEC 4032 PREMIUM FORGED DISH PISTONS
TOTAL SEAL PLASMA MOLY PISTON RINGS
SCAT 4340 FORGED STEEL CRANKSHAFT
SCAT 4340 FORGED I-BEAM CONNECTING RODS W/ ARP 7/16 CAP SCREWS
CLEVITE H-SERIES HEAT TREATED MAIN BEARING SET
CLEVITE H-SERIES HEAT TREATED ROD BEARINGS
INTERNALLY BALANCED ASSEMBLY

Compression 10.59
Bore 4.1
Stroke 3.58
Rod Length 6.123
Piston Comp. Height 1.667
Piston Dome cc -14.3
Head Comb. Chamber cc 55
Head Gasket Thickness 0.04
Block Deck Height 9.593
Cylinders 8
Services
Harland Sharp Heavy-Duty Roller Rocker Kit for Performance W2 Heads
S70025W2K
Rocker Arms, Shaft Mount, 1.5 Ratio, Aluminum, Roller Rockers
Rocker Arm Offset: .775 in.

Camshaft?
Intake manifold?

Get these , ∆∆∆∆ two things right and that combo will make north of 500 HP. J.Rob
 
Camshaft?
Intake manifold?

Get these , ∆∆∆∆ two things right and that combo will make north of 500 HP. J.Rob

Ordered a custom grind camshaft from bullet cams don’t have the specs on me. Considering the Edelbrock Victor w-2 intake manifold. I’m open to suggestions on the intake manifold if another would better fit my application.

I’m also leaning towards the Quick Fuel Brawler Race Series BR-67332 850 cfm
 
Can you school me on the need for this a little? My father and engine builder are pretty experienced in building race engines (not at all saying they didn’t miss something) but I need info to bring to them.


Because your geometry will never be correct if you don't do something about it. Ever.

It's actually B3 racing engines that makes a kit to do the correction. IIRC, with the same rocker, .620 gross lift and stem height about .050 higher I needed a .240 up and .060 back correction.

That's a bunch. But my sweep is about .045ish IIRC.

Forget about getting the sweep centered. Get the sweep as narrow as you can.

b3racingengines.com

EDIT: my post only applies if you are using econo W2 heads. If you have the stands milled and have offset shafts and blocks than ignore what I posted.
 
He said his W2 heads are 55cc so I assume that they are latest generation race heads. The rocker alignment should be taken care of in the shaft mounting blocks, right?
 
Because your geometry will never be correct if you don't do something about it. Ever.

It's actually B3 racing engines that makes a kit to do the correction. IIRC, with the same rocker, .620 gross lift and stem height about .050 higher I needed a .240 up and .060 back correction.

That's a bunch. But my sweep is about .045ish IIRC.

Forget about getting the sweep centered. Get the sweep as narrow as you can.

b3racingengines.com

EDIT: my post only applies if you are using econo W2 heads. If you have the stands milled and have offset shafts and blocks than ignore what I posted.

Because your geometry will never be correct if you don't do something about it. Ever.

It's actually B3 racing engines that makes a kit to do the correction. IIRC, with the same rocker, .620 gross lift and stem height about .050 higher I needed a .240 up and .060 back correction.

That's a bunch. But my sweep is about .045ish IIRC.

Forget about getting the sweep centered. Get the sweep as narrow as you can.

b3racingengines.com

EDIT: my post only applies if you are using econo W2 heads. If you have the stands milled and have offset shafts and blocks than ignore what I posted.

As stated originally I’m a rookie when it comes to building/restoring cars. So I’m not sure why you gave me a dislike for asking for clarification and info to bring to my father and the engine builder. I would like to learn when we aren’t doing things properly so I can bring facts to them to justify change.
But my heads are the 55cc race heads so I assume this doesn’t apply as you stated at the end of your post.
I appreciate all input opinions and help with this project and forgive me if I ask questions bc it’s how I learn
 
As stated originally I’m a rookie when it comes to building/restoring cars. So I’m not sure why you gave me a dislike for asking for clarification and info to bring to my father and the engine builder. I would like to learn when we aren’t doing things properly so I can bring facts to them to justify change.
But my heads are the 55cc race heads so I assume this doesn’t apply as you stated at the end of your post.
I appreciate all input opinions and help with this project and forgive me if I ask questions bc it’s how I learn


Sorry. That was a pepperoni finger hitting a button I didn't know I hit.

Yes, if you have blocks that hold the shafts (there were at one time two sets of shafts and blocks, one with the attaching holes centered and the other with them offset) and the stands on the head are milled flat, you won't need a correction kit from B3. You may need to mill the blocks or maybe add a shim under the stand to correct for geometry, but not a kit like B3 makes.

Make damn sure you have offset blocks and shafts. There is no way you can get that big rocker on there and get the geometry right if the blocks and shafts aren't offset.
 
what yr says
for info though go to the B3 webpage and he has several articles explaining
you might have to make new stands- we used to do that all the time
you will find b3 very helpful even if you do not buy his kit
and he will most likely give you the dimensions you need
long valves?
other special dimensions?
what size pushrods
guys and gals
what is a common data point for valve height
from the sporing cup does not work as they get cut
OP longer or different than stock W2 or any MOPAR valves changes the contact point of the rocker
AS YR said do not consider at first the centering of the contact patch eventhough several if nor most camgrainder instructions say to do this- it get's you all xxxyyyed up
work on narrowest sweep- which is when the rocker is perpendicular (with a line through the trunion and roller tip) to the valve stem = parallel to the valve tip and retainer- slide your machinist rule up
 
Any suggestions on an intake manifold?
I tried ordering the Edlebrock Victor through jegs but apparently the part is discontinued. I’m open to other intake manifolds as well what’s the opinion out there?
 
I think it’s safe to say that this combination with enough gear that an M1 or a Holley Street Dominator would be hard to top.
 
I think it’s safe to say that this combination with enough gear that an M1 or a Holley Street Dominator would be hard to top.
Logan, A M-1 or Holley Strip Dominator for a W2 head can be found easy enough on E-bay.
IMG_0581.jpg
 
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