u can drop the Wallace …Says the 318hasvalvesthatwillfly/Wallace calculator LOL....
First Time Drag racing
- Thread starter moparmike98
- Start date
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moparmike98
Well-Known Member
I see things got interesting in here. :eats popcorn: I'm not sure on my current timing curve I don't have timing light yet. What one do you guys recommend? It is indeed primarily a street car. I don't have a fuel pressure gauge on it, however, I just received one in the mail along with fuel pump and regulator this morning. I wouldn't be surprised if the clutch was starting to go because earlier this summer I started to suspect it. And I know that an automatic with a shift kit in it is probably faster for the average Joe, but nobody looks inside a muscle car and is impressed by one. They love to see that magnificent pistol grip and third pedal. Plus, a manual is so much more fun to drive and it feels about a second faster when racing.
A basic timing light that has a dial back feature is the minimum.
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
A correctly tuned clutch car is always quicker and faster. That's why Pro Stock isn't crying for powerglide X.
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
I've been out shifting those leaky automatics since 1980. The crap I read is strange indeed.
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
I agree. But take away the automatic shifter and crossovers and all that crap and it's a different story.
I've always said the rules to allow the automatic to compete has made it so guys who can drive get punished. It's stupid. Weight breaks for converter cars. Still. It's sad when a cheater like Jeg (a known, verified two time cheater) has to run a car with an automatic shifter. No wonder Pro Stock blows anymore.
I couldn't agree more, I am much slower now than I was 30 years ago, and readily admit it.
mopardude318
Well-Known Member
Anyone can go fast with an Auto. A manual trans makes it more interesting and really brings out the talent/skill each driver has.
They are just so damn cool. No slushbox for me.
They are just so damn cool. No slushbox for me.
That's not really true, the automatic has to overcome the getting out of first and getting into second, actually it's in both gears slowing it down till it gets all the way out of first.
Oldiron440
Well-Known Member
I hate to tell this story because I couldn't stand the guy but here it is.
A brother of a good friend of mine had a 67 big block 4 speed Corvette capable of mid 10s but he would dial the car 11.40 and run 6 of them in one night. He was great at running a slower car down and playing games a the finish or drawing a fast car into breaking out and using the breaks at the last second.
I watched him run a 11.43 at 97 mph one night sliding the front tires through the light's for a win.
The guy was an arrogant prick but he new how to run the Vette.
A brother of a good friend of mine had a 67 big block 4 speed Corvette capable of mid 10s but he would dial the car 11.40 and run 6 of them in one night. He was great at running a slower car down and playing games a the finish or drawing a fast car into breaking out and using the breaks at the last second.
I watched him run a 11.43 at 97 mph one night sliding the front tires through the light's for a win.
The guy was an arrogant prick but he new how to run the Vette.
famous bob
mopar misfit
]
Interesting , I had a 69 440/4 speed coronet r/t that I couldn't speed shift at all. Almost always missed second gear in a dragrace . TOO dumb to do anything about it back then/16 yr old .
I don't agree, my EX 18 time national record holder friend attended a race recently "his car is wrecked < just watched" , and said there were only 3 stick cars in superstock at that race/ Guess what won !
How many 4 speed cars win the hemi shoot outs ? Not hardly ever !
B3422w5
Well-Known Member
Do you actually race?
No guys who can race are punished. Most all the time the best drivers win.
I race a lot, half *** guys dont go many rounds anywhere
Pro stock blows( and they cant field 16 cars a lot) is because of money. Few guys have it an the rest dont.
That and the cars don't look like cars anymore
To the Fishman67 Sense you RED Xed me, You have a fast car with a computer, How long does it take for it to shift from 1st to 2nd, and 2nd to 3rd, .400 sec or .0004 sec
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
Ask the SS Hemi guys why they don't run a clutch. They'll tell you and it's not what you think.
I know, for a fact (because the guy I got the info from isn't a bull rapper and I don't want to name drop because I catch hell for that) the FSS guys are BEGGING NHRA to let them use a sintered iron style clutch, but NHRA isn't budging at the moment.
There are several clutch guys building clutches for them, but they are expensive and costly to test, but right now, every car with a good clutch is quicker than the slush box cars. And that's just in testing.
And that's on a limited tire, blown engine. And they STILL are BEGGING for a clutch.
Hmmmmmmmmm
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
Sure do race. Why not have a look in the rule book? Clutch cars (in classes that count...bracket racing sucks) have been getting a weight break forever. And STILL do.
How about we add weight to the auto cars? Then you'd see all the dolts who never tuned a clutch car in their lives trying to learn how to do it.
History and facts are a *****.
The x got your attention, let's not debate our opinions of Auto vs 4sp for racing. That wasn't my intention in my original post.
At the power level our car runs, the auto is much more consistent.
I have nothing to offer the OP on racing a stick so I will move along.
O.K. Now we are getting somewhere. I went back and read all your post and not once did you say anything about consistency. You said faster. Automatics are more consistent and I got beat by a 75 B100 running 21.00 all day long, at the end of the day he won the trophy, out drove everybody. Now it was not faster it was just consistent. A stick is faster than a automatic and I will stick with that because I have lived it. So you can stick your red X, you know where !
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
When I was younger, I used to go to the track and watch the weather. I'd hang out with the Comp guys and they were following the weather pretty close in the early 1990's, if not before then.
You could track all their runs for the day and the at the end, add in the weather. If you throw out tire shake, broken parts and such, almost every single clutch car was as good as or better at consistency as the slush boxes. Same thing with Stock and Super Stock. You can even look at PS today. Follow the weather and compare the ET and just as important the MPH and you'll see a clutch car is no more or less consistent than an automatic.
B3422w5
Well-Known Member
Bracket racing doesnt suck. Its getting even more popular with this big dollar stuff.
Its the thing most people who drag race do. I love it
Have buddy's who race “ class cars” guess what, they bracket race too. That all it is except class eliminations
Nobody is arguing sticks can be fast. Charlie and his dad owned hemi super stock for the whole time they dabbled in it. Down the stretch they both ran stick cars. Fear the Warfish
But the Op of this thread is an ordinary Joe. And to a normal guy a stick is a handful to get “ right” at the track, if the car makes serious steam
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
I agree with all but the first part. I know it's getting bigger. But so is the no prep stuff. The no prep costs are going through the roof right now. And will probably continue for the foreseeable future.
Two of my best friends retired last year. They have the $$$$ to do no prep and thought they were going to up a car and rotate the earth.
They went to 3 or 4 no prep races this year. Also went to 2 or 3 engine builders to check on costs.
They have since said they are now thinking about doing it rather that doing it. It just outrageous what it costs to do that. They wanted to do it with a Hemi. I tried to tell them that's going to drain them. They went and looked at the Goodwin stuff.
Then they wanted to run a clutch. I said better look and see who else is. No one.
Then the cost of the car is just a small percentage of the total. You need the hauler, and a crew, and a pair and a spare of everything.
We'll see what happens but I think the fire has gone out.
They were going to build bracket cars, but neither really likes that. So that's where the no prep stuff came from.
weedburner
Well-Known Member
I've got a split slider setup for a stick sitting on my desk, shift time for them is 0.00. Not much fun for anything but drag racing though
Grant
moparmike98
Well-Known Member
Well not much has happened since the fall. I put the Carter fuel pump and regulator in right before storage. It wasn't shooting ducks on the street anymore so hopefully that's cured. I purchased a bunch of jets and cams for the carb. But up until this point I have just been reading just about every clutch thread I can find and now think I have a direction to go with that. I want some opinions first. I'm thinking the McLeod B&B/Long PP. Tick performance carries them it looks like p/n 360950. There are a few options light, moderate, and heavy pressure with or without CW. Not sure which to get yet. I talked with McLeod and they said they would set me up at about about 1800 lbs. Is this reasonable and should I have CW? They also recommended an organic/ceramic disc, 500 series p/n mcl-260520 on summit. This is a majority street car but hitting the track probably 3ish times a season. What do you guys think and what else do you need to know? Also can a 10.5" disc be run on the 10.95 PP? If not I need to know what disc is better.
Mike
Mike
weedburner
Well-Known Member
1800lbs without counterweight on the organic/ceramic disc should be fine for a mostly street, a little strip car...as long as you don't spray it.
Weekend before last in Bradenton the top 11 Coyote Stock cars all qualified within 0.1 of each other. Heads-up stick shift racing with a field as tight as NHRA PS. 5 different clutch brands, some organic, some ceramic, some iron, a few with counterweight, most without. Every one of them had their hit controlled by my ClutchTamer You don't need a counterweight PP or even a race clutch to get a good 60', but you do need a way to control how fast the clutch pulls the engine down.
Grant
Weekend before last in Bradenton the top 11 Coyote Stock cars all qualified within 0.1 of each other. Heads-up stick shift racing with a field as tight as NHRA PS. 5 different clutch brands, some organic, some ceramic, some iron, a few with counterweight, most without. Every one of them had their hit controlled by my ClutchTamer
You don't need a counterweight PP or even a race clutch to get a good 60', but you do need a way to control how fast the clutch pulls the engine down.Grant
furrystump
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If your fuel pressure gauge is oil/liquid filled, drain the liquid out. It can throw off the reading with temperature swings. I had one and at idle it would show zero up to 10 lbs then back to zero. Drained it and rock steady 6 lbs. I run a mechanical pump inline with an electrical holly red pump. It will run with just the mechanical up to about 3500 rpm pulling through the red pump. Fuel delivery is your biggest issue. The pop at upper rpm is probably a lean pop.
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