New 408 build finally started

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pittsburghracer said:
Machine shop called and it’s done. 320.00 plus tax so not bad at all for the work they had to do (12 holes no Mallory metal). I’ll pick it up tomorrow.
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WOW. I know it's more money but I'd have turned some off the counterweights so I didn't have to drill all those holes!!!!
 
mbaird said:
If you need it done I have all the drills, the ream and the pean for the tubing/ oil galley drilling.
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Thanks! I’m just interested to see how it’s done.
 
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Well I dropped my assembly of Friday afternoon and picked it up this morning. These guys did a heck of a job getting this thing balanced for me. I’m not a machinist but the way he explained it there wasn’t an option of sticking it in a lathe and machining the counter weights down. The issue was the leading edge was heavy. I bought two of these cranks many many years ago from a shop owner that is now dead so it wasn’t a case of contacting K1 and trying to exchange it. So for a little over 300.00 it’s good and ready to put together soon. Pictures for those interested in the holes. Lol
 
pittsburghracer said:
View attachment 1715465506 View attachment 1715465507 View attachment 1715465508 Well I dropped my assembly of Friday afternoon and picked it up this morning. These guys did a heck of a job getting this thing balanced for me. I’m not a machinist but the way he explained it there wasn’t an option of sticking it in a lathe and machining the counter weights down. The issue was the leading edge was heavy. I bought two of these cranks many many years ago from a shop owner that is now dead so it wasn’t a case of contacting K1 and trying to exchange it. So for a little over 300.00 it’s good and ready to put together soon. Pictures for those interested in the holes. Lol
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Yeah, that makes sense. When it's front edge heavy and you reduce the CW's just to get rid of mass, you'll almost always end up needing some Mallory.

It's hard to explain but reducing CW mass does strange things to the location of where the mass is heavy.

I usually reduce the CW's just to get some weight off the crank, and when you are doing your own balance jobs and just being the Mallory its cost effective.

If you are paying for all that work, it gets costly right quick.
 
Ohhh well. A power pole caught fire 1.5 miles from my house 3 hours ago so no progress in my shop or heat in the house tonight. 2-4 inches of snow being called for so I guess I should be happy it’s not crazy cold in my house yet.
 
Same here. Power pole hit by truck yesterday, power out for several hours. Snowing.
Tore my Magnum apart today. Ground out casting flash. Off to machinist tomorrow.
Apparently SCAT is backordered on connecting rods.
 
Idaho said:
Same here. Power pole hit by truck yesterday, power out for several hours. Snowing.
Tore my Magnum apart today. Ground out casting flash. Off to machinist tomorrow.
Apparently SCAT is backordered on connecting rods.
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Not sure what rod you are going with but here’s a link. I never dealt with them but the price looks fair. Let me know and if you can’t find any I will post up some more links to try.

Scat Rods 2-ICR6123-2124 Premium Pro Comp I Beam Connecting Rods
 
Thanks! They are I beam so unless they have different versions I think that's them. I will find out tomorrow if the machinist can get them.
 
It's not the cost of drilling the holes it's the cost of getting them in the right places
lucky no mallory
 
Took the block to the machine shop today. He says he can get rods.
I have to decide if I'm letting him balance (about $1700 total) or get a balanced kit from Cleggs for about $1520.
He's saying they balanced kits are off quite a bit.
 
Idaho said:
Took the block to the machine shop today. He says he can get rods.
I have to decide if I'm letting him balance (about $1700 total) or get a balanced kit from Cleggs for about $1520.
He's saying they balanced kits are off quite a bit.
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Ohio crankshaft did a fine balance job on their 408 kit I bought from them.
 
Idaho said:
Thanks! They are I beam so unless they have different versions I think that's them. I will find out tomorrow if the machinist can get them.
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I've checked many of those types of balance jobs and not not one would I run.

Plus, you still need to get the bobweights on the crank and spin it to verify what the balance work looks like.

Failure to verify will bite you sooner or later.
 
Idaho said:
I'm shooting for 9.5 to 10:1 compression. Machinist wanted the block there before ordering parts.
I get that the deck cleanup affects which piston to choose.
Just wondering, without the rotating assembly to see how far in the hole the pistons are, how does he even measure to make a piston decision?
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By compression height based on deck height..then chamber volume piston head volume..head gasket volume...then ica...then consider head flow.
 
Idaho said:
Took the block to the machine shop today. He says he can get rods.
I have to decide if I'm letting him balance (about $1700 total) or get a balanced kit from Cleggs for about $1520.
He's saying they balanced kits are off quite a bit.
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I don’t want to come across like a dick but if possible start a post on your build then we can follow each other’s progress without mucking up each other’s posts. It kinda gets confusing when you get s couple builds going on one post. Thanks.
 
Apologies, should have thought of that.
 
pittsburghracer said:
I don’t want to come across like a dick but if possible start a post on your build then we can follow each other’s progress without mucking up each other’s posts. It kinda gets confusing when you get s couple builds going on one post. Thanks.
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Dick

:rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl:

Just kidding.
:thumbsup:
I love this stuff. Learning all the time.
 
yellow rose said:
I've checked many of those types of balance jobs and not not one would I run.

Plus, you still need to get the bobweights on the crank and spin it to verify what the balance work looks like.

Failure to verify will bite you sooner or later.
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OK, so probably a stupid question.....
Do you get the balanced kit from the vendor and have your guy finish/correct it? Or do you get the unbalanced kit and have your guy do it from scratch?
Which is cheaper/smarter/better?
 
gzig5 said:
OK, so probably a stupid question.....
Do you get the balanced kit from the vendor and have your guy finish/correct it? Or do you get the unbalanced kit and have your guy do it from scratch?
Which is cheaper/smarter/better?
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Mucking OP's thread up, but buy through a builder.
 
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