Comp 892 BB Roller lifters in a SBM?

[gzig5]

Will a BBM roller lifter work in a SBM and if not, why? Diameter is the same at .904". I know the pushrod seat height can be different but would custom pushrods correct that? I think the roller diameter is .800". Guy at work thinks his dad has a used set he would let go cheap and if they can be made to work I would love to run a solid roller. I'm not afraid to grind on the block or come up with some sort of custom guide or link-bar setup if off the shelf parts won't work.

 

[PRH]

Different link bar set up.

 

[gzig5]

Different link bar set up.

Yup, was aware of the link bar difference. Was hoping I could buy the correct bars, otherwise I would see what I can cobble up. I think if I can get them at a good price I will give them a shot?? I'm not going to be going nutz with the lift. Street oriented motor with some road course work in its future, so they won't get worked excessively hard.

 

[PRH]

I think you’re going to find there is some block interference with the area up near the top of those lifters.

The other thing is...... those aren’t actually “Mopar” lifters....... they’re Chevy .903 lifters.

I’ll let you figure out why that can be problematic.

 

[Rocket]

Suggest you call Comp and ask if they can fit. If dimensions are right and the oil band will not pass by where the upper lifter bore chamfer begins with a margin of safety it could work.

I have known others to request link bars from one type of lifter added to another when they purchased new lifters from Comp. Comp may also offer the service for a fee on your lifters.

 

[PRH]

What I would consider as an affordable alternative to trying to use the “wrong” roller lifters in a SB Mopar:

Howards, Vertical Bar Mechanical Roller Lifters, Chry SB-Competition Products

 

[pittsburghracer]

What I would consider as an affordable alternative to trying to use the “wrong” roller lifters in a SB Mopar:

Howards, Vertical Bar Mechanical Roller Lifters, Chry SB-Competition Products

That one may require block grinding with the bars riveted on the block side of the lifter.

 

[pishta]

They will drop in, and will need a V bar. Up to your cams lift and base circle weather they will show the oil galley. I got some .080 AL if you need to make some link bars.

 

[gzig5]

I think you’re going to find there is some block interference with the area up near the top of those lifters.

The other thing is...... those aren’t actually “Mopar” lifters....... they’re Chevy .903 lifters.

I’ll let you figure out why that can be problematic.

Interesting. So Comp sells Mopar guys under size lifters that they say are a larger size in their spec sheet?. .001" is fairly significant on a sub-inch diameter. Probably more clearance that you would want?

What Chevy uses .903 lifters? All the references I can find are .843" for SB and BB Cheverolet.
Just trying to learn.

 

[PRH]

.903/.904......just semantics.

.904 lifters are pretty popular in the high effort Chevy builds.

You can even buy aftermarket blocks with the lifter bores already that size.

As PBR mentioned, the Howard’s lifters in the link will likely require some block grinding.

This was pretty much SOP when running a roller cam in a small block Mopar.
There are some lifters offered these days where the link bar has been moved to the pushrod side of the strut, to aid in easing installation by decreasing or eliminating the need to relieve the block.
They’re great...... but are a few hundred dollars more than those Howard’s.

COMP Cams Endure-X roller lifters 8043-16

The problem I’m referring to with the 892’s in Mopars is clearly seen in the pic you posted.
You’ll have to do some home work.

 

[gzig5]

Gotcha. I've read that the custom Chevy stuff use the larger diameter lifters. Makes sense.

I've looked at the Howard's lifters before and I think normally if I were to decide on the roller, that's what I would use. In this case, the Comp 892's may be "an offer I can't refuse" type of thing which would make dealing with the unknowns worth the effort. That's part of what hot-rodding is right? We'll see how it pans out. If not, I may drive up to Oshkosh and visit Howard's.

 

[PRH]

Solid Roller cams have there own inherent reliability concerns.

Personally, thats one area where I wouldn’t be running the “wrong” parts....... even if they were free.

Another affordable option:

Erson-PBM-World-B2C | RL965 - PBM Performance - SB Chrysler Pro-Race Series Mechanical Roller Lifters - .903"Dia. - on center - .750" Wheel Dia. - (Vert. Tie-Bar) (318,340,360 CID)

Unless you get the lifters with the “inboard” link bars....... you’ll likely have to do some grinding.

 

[pishta]

look at some old hemi roller specs and they are .903...found this out a while ago.

Product Line:Howards Cams Maximum Effort Retrofit Hydraulic Roller Lifters

Summit Racing Part Number:HRS-91774


UPC:840793120994

Lifter Style:Hydraulic roller

Lifter Link Bars Included:Yes

Link Bar Type:Vertical

Lifter Outside Diameter (in):0.903 in.

 

[PRH]

That one may require block grinding with the bars riveted on the block side of the lifter.

Something to consider if you know right from the start you’re going to be using a roller cam, and that the lifter of choice is likely going to require a little block relieving.

The best way to go about this would be to have a pretty good plan for the engine build already in place....... including what the cam was going to be.

If you had the new cam/lifters on hand before knocking the cam bearings out of the block, that’s the time to mock up the cam and lifters...... so you can do the necessary grinding before bringing the block to the machine shop for cleaning/machining.

Just something to keep in mind.
I prefer not to have to do any grinding on the block after it’s already been cleaned the “final” time.