I have always primed my engines to 30 psi right before fire up. So I dont think dry start up.Mic what you can but it looks like a dry start just as much as it does trash in the oil.
So I'm thinking if you just get it oiled this time... the trash is out, in the old filter.
Overtorqued or over spec journals are other things will shine your bearings like that.I have always primed my engines to 30 psi right before fire up. So I dont think dry start up.
Post 151 is for a modified oiling system, but basically correct.
The thrust main surfaces on the crankshaft look good. You saved it. Check the endplay when you get the new bearings.
I'd check the outer section of the filter for evil stuff. If clean, then run some long Q-tips thru the crank oiling holes. Tape off and cover the rear main area and seal up the rest of the oil pan area. Then grind the flywheel bolts for clearance. Note that the rods and mains must be assembled with the old bearings [just snug is ok] so you can turn the crank to shorten the bolts.
Clean and install new bearings. Assemble and run engine at low RPM for a while. If quiet, road test!
Post 151 is for a modified oiling system, but basically correct.
The thrust main surfaces on the crankshaft look good. You saved it. Check the endplay when you get the new bearings.
I'd check the outer section of the filter for evil stuff. If clean, then run some long Q-tips thru the crank oiling holes. Tape off and cover the rear main area and seal up the rest of the oil pan area. Then grind the flywheel bolts for clearance. Note that the rods and mains must be assembled with the old bearings [just snug is ok] so you can turn the crank to shorten the bolts.
Clean and install new bearings. Assemble and run engine at low RPM for a while. If quiet, road test!
The Guy that ground your crank should be beaten with a knotted plow line.PT70 I have done all these except the filter yet and the bolt grinding. The oil holes are all clean and all the rod bearings are in now, but not torqued (what a pain). Finishing up the mains and will post pics of all journals before I torque anything. Im keeping my fingers crossed that it has been saved. When they ground the crank it left sharp edges around the chamfers so every oil hole got polished with 400/600/1000 and checked for cleanliness with my long detail q swabs.
The Guy that ground your crank should be beaten with a knotted plow line.
That is an old line from one of the best Clint Eastwood movies ever made.Ouch!!
Oh man that sounds like it hurts. I say do it like they did in the old bible days, 49 lashes in public. If we brought back public beatings I bet we would a lot less crime. I digress.The Guy that ground your crank should be beaten with a knotted plow line.
Love that movie and most Clint movies.That is an old line from one of the best Clint Eastwood movies ever made.
The Outlaw Josey Whales
Heres some pics of the journals. All rod bearings in but not torqued. End play checks at .008, maybe on the high end but not much I can do about it. working on installing all the main bearings now and waiting for my comeric rear double lip seal. Ok so I have 6 qts of Comp Cams break in oil, use it or fill it with 30Wt for quick flush then install the Comp Cams oil.
Every hole had sharp edges, mains and rods.I’d almost bet whoever worked the crank chamfered the oil holes after grinding the journals. Jamming a countersink bit in typically raises a burr on the periphery, even with a sharp tool. Looked like that burr didn’t get knocked down.
Heres some pics of the journals. All rod bearings in but not torqued. End play checks at .008, maybe on the high end but not much I can do about it. working on installing all the main bearings now and waiting for my comeric rear double lip seal. Ok so I have 6 qts of Comp Cams break in oil, use it or fill it with 30Wt for quick flush then install the Comp Cams oil.
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.008 aint bad if ur THRUST cap is lined up perfectly, thats the most important . YOU`LL HAVE MORE THAN .008 ON THE ROD SIDE CLEARANCE MOST LIKELY ---------
So John what should stock rod clearance be?.008 side clearance wouldn’t bother me at all. With that said it may tighten up some once he torques all the main caps down. His rod side clearance will or should be way tighter than most of our builds as I think he is running a stock rod. Us guys running Chevy rods in our strokers have lots of rod side clearance.
So John what should stock rod clearance be?