j par
Well-hung Member
I can assure you yellow rose does not run a Dyno for a living LOL....
Dyno Vs.Drag Strip Testing
- Thread starter 12many
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Rmoore
Well-Known Member
Oooooook !
What acceleration rate do you think is most accurate on the dyno ?
j par
Well-hung Member
33IMP
Well-Known Member
If you have 400hp, and your GER converter slips 20% (mine was easily that bad), and your new converter slips 10% you just got 40 more of the horsepower you already had, to the ground. No more power, just more use of what you have.I know, but a bad converter can cost you MPH on the ET slip (notice I said "slip" in both posts). I was also burned by a GER converter. When I swapped out the GER, the ET dropped a lot and my MPH went up too. So how much HP did I gain by swapping converters??? My MPH went up about 3 mph if my memory serves me correctly, so I had to gain HP (didn't touch the engine, though....)
Are GER's even made anymore? ?? I thought they disappeared years ago... boy, that's a turd that won't flush!
33IMP
Well-Known Member
No thank heavens, long gone. Deservedly so. You can fool some of the people......but not for very long.
I was fooled by a whole page add in one of the mopar magazines, and price caught my eye.... LOL I remember I gave about 329 or something for the 10" and sold it for 75 bucks after a few months of running it. Not only was the performance horrible, but it took the thrust bearing out of the 340 I had in front of it too....
LOL yep! the one I had (HAD!) was horrendously bad. Couldn't afford a good one at the time (93), so I had it cut apart by a independent builder (a super stock guy), he said it's a chys 604 FWD converter adapted to a 727. He was able to fix it somewhat, but told us to move on when money was available. We did. Sold it to a street guy.
Bought a 9" Munsinger (how long since you've heard that name?) worked pretty good!
33IMP
Well-Known Member
Bought a munsinger for my cortina for a glide with a brake. Went from low 6.50s to low 6.30s, no other changes.
He retired a few years back, and then I heard his health was bad. I don't know any more. His shop was about ten miles from my house.
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
The best acceleration rate is the weight of the inertia dyno. That’s one drawback of the water brake dyno. The computer and brake control the engine’s RPM, rather than the engine accelerate a known load.
Plus you can see where your engine is lacking, see if you need more low/mid/top power.
Cause they think a dyno just make up fictional power number and only et/mph and some formula they found on the internet can tell you your true power.
Obviously a car et or 0-60 mph matters more than your power number but as you said it’s a tool that can help you get the most out of your combo, Plus most like to know and or brag about there power even If it doesn’t always translate to real world performance.
My car has 400 hp but doesn’t use most of it cause the original owner put in 2.94 gears instead of a set of 4.xx. So yes at this point I’m not using all that I have but doesn’t change I have 400 hp and can use it when I change gears.
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yes.....
Over the years, I've heard arguments, '...600 rpm/sec and go with it' 'that's too slow, that's like the car in high gear, you need to run it at 300 rpm/sec, like when it's in 2nd gear, so we can get a better look a BSFC's and exh temps'
I don't think I've ever heard that being put to bed..
weedburner
Well-Known Member
...or put the engine in the car, make a pass and log some data. One pass gets you every different relevant accel rate as you work your way thru the gears, overlay different graphs to see the effect of adjustments at the different accel rates.
Grant
Sure, you could do that, but there isn't an affordable Data Acquisition package out there that can give you the data that even the simplest Dyno will provide.
weedburner
Well-Known Member
I used to use the older less expensive Gtech RR to gather simple data before I moved up to Racepak. It produced nice graphs and allowed overlays, not sure if you can also do it with a $150 dragy as I have never used one.
Grant
Grant
I can't tell you how many times I've wanted to pull the trigger on a RacePak lately... Just couldn't quite get there.. (it's supposed to be a street car... Got racin in my blood... ahhh)
A basic RacePak will set you back $1500 (more?) Which is 2 dyno sessions, if you count lunch.
But, you never own the dyno. Gotta keep paying. True for the RacePak, to a degree, cause eventually, it's paid for and the tech keeps getting better.
23 some yrs ago, a good friend of mine was getting his dyno going.. (DTS) I had just completed my latest bracket motor. He said, "bring it over !" We spent 2 days on it for FREE! (some of that time was delayed due to a faulty pump solenoid..)
It was AMAZING how fast we got things squared away! Lash, jetting, timing, header length (race adjustables) 3 different carbs, fuel. It would have taken a month of passes to get questionable data, burning your fingers on hot plugs, spilling gas on the fender, you name it.
@yellowrose has a line on a Data acquisition system that shows some promise in inputs and price, but I cannot remember the name of it..
I love the Racepak in my black Duster so much I bought one for my heads up car. Lol.
Yeah? what inputs do you like to use?
weedburner
Well-Known Member
Turning the car into a dyno finds problems that you can't find on stationary dyno. Carb jetting and fuel supply vs g-force / air flow, ign advance, plug heat range, etc at the appropriate accel rates and attitudes.
Stationary dyno helps you develop in the winter, but the ultimate dyno is going to be the car unless you are an Engine Masters contestant. I wouldn't dyno in the shop if i had the opportunity to dyno at the track.
Grant
Oil pressure, water temp, transmission temp, water temp, O2, egt’s, g force, gas press, voltage, rpm, and I have a ring collar for my rearend but I had to order a strange yoke to use it. Not installed yet but as a side note three of the last big money races I went to required this to be disconnected. Must have caught someone cheating. My oil pressure readouts caught two issues that could have been real bad. My oil pressure was spiking to 130 pounds during my runs. Changed the oil pump thinking sticking bypass and it fixed it. Also on launch my piece of junk Canton oil pan was losing oil pressure. Put my Milidon back on fixed that issue
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
RAMM
Well-Known Member
Agreed--I charge $525 CDN for 5 hrs (which is always a full day) or $600 with dual widebands. A day on the dyno WILL accelerate your program (pun intended) by weeks or months or even years--depending on how often you get to the track. A good dyno operator can tell you much more than what is printed on the dyno sheets too. Can timing and jetting requirements be different from the dyno to the track? --Yes--But it won't be off 10 degrees of timing or 10 jet sizes-If your dyno experience is any good.
There is a thread right now about a stroker with TF heads not running the MPH the OP thinks it should. OP's research says it should make 550HP but it runs 113mph and change. A cheap and easy dyno session would have shown him that it makes about 450-475hp likely on the first pull. Then the tuning begins--Yes I have seen 75hp from the first pull to the last but that is extremely rare. It is usually 20-30 hp gain from the first to the last--And it is often what you can tell from reading between the lines that gets you the farthest. J.Rob
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