Wake up a 1968 318...

-
F

fakirone

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 12, 2020
Messages
74
Reaction score
29
Location
Atlanta, GA
I have a 1968 318 with (what the PO says is a) dang 1 barrel carb that has no choke and I want to wake it up. It's in a van and I am not really looking for any major performance upgrades, but I feel like the motor has a lot more potential without doing all too much to it.

Does anyone here have experience with this? Again, mostly looking for reliability and mileage rather than ton of power. SOME more power obviously, but nothing crazy by any means.

Would something like this work?

Edelbrock 2176PK: Performer Power Package Intake Manifold, Carburetor and Camshaft Kit SB-Chrysler 318-360ci | JEGS
 
Last edited:
It's a 318 1 barrel? If you just want a little more gitty up, I'd look at a fresh valve job, new timing chain, dual exhaust (make sure your heat riser flap is not froze shut in the exhaust manifold), recurve the distributor, and you could add the 4 bbl /intake. I would stay away from the cam in the van, unless you hope to spend a lot of time over 3500 rpm's.
 
318willrun said:
It's a 318 1 barrel? If you just want a little more gitty up, I'd look at a fresh valve job, new timing chain, dual exhaust (make sure your heat riser flap is not froze shut in the exhaust manifold), recurve the distributor, and you could add the 4 bbl /intake. I would stay away from the cam in the van, unless you hope to spend a lot of time over 3500 rpm's.
Click to expand...
AND to be honest I haven't pulled anything to look at it yet, that what the PO said it had. I know that there's no choke and it's a hella cold starting vehicle, but I bet it's probably a 2 barrel. I guess that I should have mentioned that in the original post.
 
Factory 318s are pretty dang good as they are.

What ratio is in the differential? A lot of those A vans have low gear sets.
 
Alaskan_TA said:
Factory 318s are pretty dang good as they are.

What ratio is in the differential? A lot of those A vans have low gear sets.
Click to expand...
The rear axle of the VIN tag "Rear Axle 3600 35 RA36", but I haven't been able to find a place to decode what that equates.
 
Last edited:
Here's the whole door plate

IMG_3100.JPG
 
Rear axle 32, so it has a 3.23 - IF it has not been swapped before.

The 3600 is the rear axle weight capacity.

It also has the HD 727 transmission.
 
That carb and the Performer or Action Plus would work fine. What does the exhaust comprise of? Do they make headers for your van?

Maybe start with a tune up and see where the timing is.
 
Alaskan_TA said:
Rear axle 32, so it has a 3.23 - IF it has not been swapped before.

The 3600 is the rear axle weight capacity.

It also has the HD 727 transmission.
Click to expand...
Thanks! I doubt that it's been swapped. It's got less than 65k on the clock, was on a farm here outside of Atlanta for almost it's whole life.
 
dano said:
That carb and the Performer or Action Plus would work fine. What does the exhaust comprise of? Do they make headers for your van?

Maybe start with a tune up and see where the timing is.
Click to expand...
The carb that I already own? If so that would be sweet.

Apparently almost any of the 318 headers will work on this van. I looked it up online and apparently there's hella more room than basically everything. I was thinking of trying some B body or block huggers though. It's a single now, but I wouldn't might putting duals. Should be fairly easy to do.

The PO says that the distributor isn't advancing properly so it could use a new one. He gave me a distributor with the van, but is an HEI style. Not sure how difficult, or worth, it would be to switch. Might just get a new stock style.
 
At 65K, if it still has the original timing chain, it and the nylon gear teeth may be worn and that would cause timing issues.

Timing chain slop can be checked in the vehicle, so no need to tear anything apart to check.
 
Alaskan_TA said:
At 65K, if it still has the original timing chain, it and the nylon gear teeth may be worn and that would cause timing issues.

Timing chain slop can be checked in the vehicle, so no need to tear anything apart to check.
Click to expand...
I will look into that, thank you. I found an original service manual online and it's in the mail, might have arrived today. Looking forward to actually getting into the van a little this weekend since I haven't had much time to really look at it. Just know that it runs and drives and I love it.
 
always surprises me how much an intake manifold, 4bbl and dual exhausts changes that engine - it's like a different motor.
 
My 67 273 standard 2 brl on single plane intake ran as good as it should. Low end around town performance or the lack of was amplified by the 276 gear.
A dual plane cast iron intake and 2 brl along with electronic ignition, all pulled from a 73 318, plus a chrome box ecu and a little performance tuning made a big difference ... for cheap! Not so much more go that I would need to upgrade the stop.
I did have a commando engine, aftermarket intake, 4 brl, cam, complete dual exhaust, 8.25 rear with 321 or 323 gear (i forget), and more laying here until about 3 weeks ago. Sold all of it for one money to someone who wants or thinks they need all that aftermarket tire cooking stuff. The dual plane intake with a good 2 brl, modified spark, timing, and advance curve worked for me. The 73 fuel line with its repositioned fuel filter, plus a thicker base gasket ended the fuel perc away issue too. It fires right up and leaves a red light better than the 73 Valiant ever did.
 
You guys are absolutely right. Teens respond to a 4 barrel, duals, and a distributor recurve. Oh, and getting at least a 3:23 gear in the rear end.
 
fakirone said:
I have a 1968 318 with (what the PO says is a) dang 1 barrel carb that has no choke and I want to wake it up. It's in a van and I am not really looking for any major performance upgrades, but I feel like the motor has a lot more potential without doing all too much to it.

Does anyone here have experience with this? Again, mostly looking for reliability and mileage rather than ton of power. SOME more power obviously, but nothing crazy by any means.

Would something like this work?

Edelbrock 2176PK: Performer Power Package Intake Manifold, Carburetor and Camshaft Kit SB-Chrysler 318-360ci | JEGS
Click to expand...

I would NOT use that cam.
The Edelbrock carb is fine. The Summit unit is IMO, nicer.
The intake is perfect, though, you could make use of a OE cast iron intake and make the same power cheaper, but at a weight penalty. (Approximately 25lbs.)

I have done these basic hop up, upgrades before. This is what I myself would do;

Tune up
Recurve & advance the distributor. Start at 15* initial, 34*-36* max advance, then hook up the vacuum line for 52* max advance.
A 600 cfm carb
An old OEM 4bbl. air cleaner
Dual plane intake (OEM or Edelbrock’s Performer)
Dual exhaust off the manifolds are nice but headers are better for power. This is up to you. Use a H or X pipe to balance out the exhaust pulses on a 2-1/2 exhaust pipe.
Upgraded ignition with wide (.050-ish) plug gaps.

IF you wanted a camshaft upgrade, more vehicle information is needed. The best I can recommend is a duration @.050 NOT to exceed [email protected] because after that, your torque converter should be upgraded. While it would be worth it, it’s pricey and a lot of work to do.

I would not do any head work. IF you decide to do so, it can get pricey real quick. But it would be 1.88 intake valves and a performance valve job. Minor milling just to make sure it is flat. No porting!
 
Something else to consider is how many miles the engine has on it. If high mileage and you change the air flow through it, torque it up, then the bottom end starts knocking... it happens
 
RedFish said:
Something else to consider is how many miles the engine has on it. If high mileage and you change the air flow through it, torque it up, then the bottom end starts knocking... it happens
Click to expand...
fakirone said:
Thanks! I doubt that it's been swapped. It's got less than 65k on the clock, was on a farm here outside of Atlanta for almost it's whole life.
Click to expand...
 
rumblefish360 said:
I would NOT use that cam.
The Edelbrock carb is fine. The Summit unit is IMO, nicer.
The intake is perfect, though, you could make use of a OE cast iron intake and make the same power cheaper, but at a weight penalty. (Approximately 25lbs.)

I have done these basic hop up, upgrades before. This is what I myself would do;

Tune up
Recurve & advance the distributor. Start at 15* initial, 34*-36* max advance, then hook up the vacuum line for 52* max advance.
A 600 cfm carb
An old OEM 4bbl. air cleaner
Dual plane intake (OEM or Edelbrock’s Performer)
Dual exhaust off the manifolds are nice but headers are better for power. This is up to you. Use a H or X pipe to balance out the exhaust pulses on a 2-1/2 exhaust pipe.
Upgraded ignition with wide (.050-ish) plug gaps.

IF you wanted a camshaft upgrade, more vehicle information is needed. The best I can recommend is a duration @.050 NOT to exceed [email protected] because after that, your torque converter should be upgraded. While it would be worth it, it’s pricey and a lot of work to do.

I would not do any head work. IF you decide to do so, it can get pricey real quick. But it would be 1.88 intake valves and a performance valve job. Minor milling just to make sure it is flat. No porting!
Click to expand...
Your plan sounds perfect to me. I already own the Summit 600, new in box so the price is right for that. Will probably pony up the cash for the aftermarket manifold and I don't REALLY want to do cama or anything else beside headers.
Done done done.
Thanks.
 
toolmanmike said:
You guys are absolutely right. Teens respond to a 4 barrel, duals, and a distributor recurve. Oh, and getting at least a 3:23 gear in the rear end.
Click to expand...

That’s exactly what I did to my 318 and it made a good difference.
 
As AK TA mentioned, it might have a crumbling cam gear. I don't remember if the A100 used them or not. Some of the original truck engines around that year I've pulled apart had steel ones. I'd check the chain slop just by rocking the crank pulley back and forth to see how much play there is. I assume this engine is still in the van and is going to stay there? It might be a pain to do, but, you can pull the fuel pump and look inside to check if it has the plastic cam gear or steel one. If steel and the slop isn't bad, I'd leave it alone. If it's the plastic coated gear, I'd pull the front end off the engine and put in a good double roller setup, a new water pump, and reseal everything. If some of the plastic teeth are missing off the cam gear, I'd pull the pan to remove them. They can get clogged in the sump screen and restrict oil flow to the pump. Check the timing cover real good for corrosion too. If you plan on changing the cam, that would also be the time to do it. Just stay mild on the came unless you plan on a full rebuild. Doesn't sound like this is going to be high revving engine, so, I think I'd leave the stock exhaust manifolds on it and just do the duals.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top