Any ladder bar and pro tree guys in the group

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o1heavy

1974 dart sport
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7.0 6.50 index car
I’m looking to switch over to ladder bars from CalTracs and have a few questions and hoping some guys with experience could help ,
Ok I’m needing to the car to react as fast as possible, the front will basically be dead weight as I need to “snatch the tire out of the beams”. No two step I’ll be all the way up on the converter 5500-5800 rpms

Also will be on on 28-10.5 tire
Not sure if I’ll stay with the radial or go back a slick but a slick seems like a better fit
At this point I’m considering 32 inch bars
But something makes me think they are a little short
Would I need anti squat or squat
It’s a little confusing
And would a longer bar help ?
Is anyone here doing something along these lines ?
 
Go to Chris Alston's site & download the information on ladder bars & installation guide. Read it over multiple times before doing your setup. JMO
 
So after all the tuning on the CalTrac set up you just weren’t happy with the results? Any rear suspension you put on the car will require a level of tuning that will drive you mad. There is no bolt on and go race setup. It took us years of tuning to get the 4 link to work properly in our off road truck mostly because I can’t just do testing in the street in front of the house but you get the point. Ladder bars can work, so can a 4 link, so can CalTracs, you just have to be willing to put the time in.
 
So after all the tuning on the CalTrac set up you just weren’t happy with the results? Any rear suspension you put on the car will require a level of tuning that will drive you mad. There is no bolt on and go race setup. It took us years of tuning to get the 4 link to work properly in our off road truck mostly because I can’t just do testing in the street in front of the house but you get the point. Ladder bars can work, so can a 4 link, so can CalTracs, you just have to be willing to put the time in.
I agree caltrac’s can work for most people but they cannot do what I need . Guess The solution Calvert recommended
The short front spring segment isn’t ideal .
Lower the launch rpm and add front travel and they are flawless . So yes I’m not happy with the results. And I understand the ladder bars will need tuning .
And I’m prepared.
Find me one person that is using the caltrac’s in a instant green situation
Most of the guys using caltrac’s are leaving at a low rpm under 3500 and they will work great for that .
Please don’t assume I’m not putting in the work
 
Forgive me if I sounded like I was blaming you for not putting in the work. I re read my post and it sounded just like that. What I meant was I saw you put a lot of work in to making the CalTracs work and not getting the results you were after and I’d hate to see you scrap it. I really wanted to see you make them work.
 
Forgive me if I sounded like I was blaming you for not putting in the work. I re read my post and it sounded just like that. What I meant was I saw you put a lot of work in to making the CalTracs work and not getting the results you were after and I’d hate to see you scrap it. I really wanted to see you make them work.
THE amount of time and effort that I have put into the caltrac’s is likely why I’m a little bitter about not being able to make them work. And trust me I wish I could make them work but I truly believe in this situation they will not be reliable.
 
John I’m confused
The glide has a advantage over the lower first gear 727/904/c4 etc??
I guess because of the softer hit?


Yes years ago powerglides had the fastest (no lag) transbrakes. Small front tires only got you so much. Even today I’m not sure the Mopars have a “pro brake” like the powerglides do. I only have one in use in the heads up car I’m building. You have to hold in the transbrake button to back up with them.
 
I don't really understand what your current issue is with the pro tree launch. Is it blowing the traction away or is your RT not good
 
I don't really understand what your current issue is with the pro tree launch. Is it blowing the traction away or is your RT not good
I have basically found the limit
Which is leaving around 5-5200 and lights are in the .030 range
It’s is very picky with track prep and conditions.
I need more in terms of reliably and reaction time
 
Lots of guys running very fast and cutting good lights with Caltracs and pro tree. You may have to look in another direction to find your issue.
 
Lots of guys running very fast and cutting good lights with Caltracs and pro tree. You may have to look in another direction to find your issue.
I’ve considered a low stall converter and or maybe a glide .
Don’t get me wrong a .030 light is a good light just not good enough, and I can cut it pretty consistent so that tells me I need to make some changes,
And I get what your saying and I’m working on the driver also
 
I have basically found the limit
Which is leaving around 5-5200 and lights are in the .030 range
It’s is very picky with track prep and conditions.
I need more in terms of reliably and reaction time

That's the down side of a radial tire. Are you using a trans brake? Why no two step? Have you considered a trans brake that'll leave in second gear?
 
Can you run more tire in that class? If so, tub it and get some steam rollers under it.
 
My 528 cube 3000 lb torqueflite car has power to run 8.80s. It had 50/50 weight distribution and the ladderbars could be dropped below the nuetral line by using the bottom hole. 24.5 tall goodyears up front, 33.5x15 stiff sidewalls in back. Launch rpm was 5000 throttle stop setting for quickest launch with a 6000 stall converter. Data logged. Grinner brake. I needed 1 .10 or more for a full tree and i consider my personal eeaction time to be .01 slower than a lot of guys . i hope this info helps.
If i moved the ladder bar up in front i would regain the rollout, pick up .02 et but at the cost of .02 slower reaction time.
 
My 528 cube 3000 lb torqueflite car has power to run 8.80s. It had 50/50 weight distribution and the ladderbars could be dropped below the nuetral line by using the bottom hole. 24.5 tall goodyears up front, 33.5x15 stiff sidewalls in back. Launch rpm was 5000 throttle stop setting for quickest launch with a 6000 stall converter. Data logged. Grinner brake. I needed 1 .10 or more for a full tree and i consider my personal eeaction time to be .01 slower than a lot of guys . i hope this info helps.
If i moved the ladder bar up in front i would regain the rollout, pick up .02 et but at the cost of .02 slower reaction time.
That is very helpful thanks for sharing
 
That is very helpful thanks for sharing
I forgot to mention i do limit front end suspension travel. That allows the front tires to be pulled up out of the beams earlier. Trial and error. Too little travel and you will get spin. Also i use some old rubber shock bisquits as cushions so it doesn't shock the chassis when the limit hits
 
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