Kendog 170
Let the boy go !
I've never done one but believe you solder them ?Can the float simply be swapped out?
I've never done one but believe you solder them ?Can the float simply be swapped out?
The float is simply clamped in a shaped wire. Here's the issue, if have a working OEM sender, a new float, and a new seal, and a new pick up sock will cost as much or more than a entire new aftermarket sender. Those senders are typically wrong at the gauge. Then you'll need a meter match module to make it closer to accurate. Sux dont it?I've never done one but believe you solder them ?
Looks like it just clips right on just like the Mustange one. Heres a pic of Dart
View attachment 1715690937
The float is simply clamped in a shaped wire. Here's the issue, if have a working OEM sender, a new float, and a new seal, and a new pick up sock will cost as much or more than a entire new aftermarket sender. Those senders are typically wrong at the gauge. Then you'll need a meter match module to make it closer to accurate. Sux dont it?
My first thought was to find just a replacement float. My preferred local parts store was closed for the evening, so I had to call the national chain store. The guy had no idea what I was talking about when I asked for a fuel sender float and said, "Hang on, let me Google it." I told him never mind and hung up. I do like the idea of soldering the float, may give that a go.
As far as rebuilding vs buying a new replacement - I'm not 100% sure the one I have is original. I mean, it definitely doesn't look 50 years old. It looks fairly new.
Lots of them on Flea Bay
1965 -1973 1979 - 1989 Ford Mustang Fuel Sender Sending Unit Brass Float NEW! | eBay
Or get from Mike, hes got lots of stuff, cheap. I've dealt with him before. No issues.
Fuel tank float not carb float.
THIS!!! Ask me how I know. Don't just throw money at the problem. Never mind, he's back in business. Y'all have a bunch of smart, and mostly friendly SOB's. I love this forum.The sending unit grounds to the metal fuel line. The metal fuel line grounds to the body with the metal fuel line mounting clips. Plenty of areas for grounding failure because of corrosion after 50 years. There is also a clip that jumpers over the rubber fuel line to connect the sender unit to the metal chassis fuel line. If you dont have this jumper clip installed, then you have no ground from the sending unit. Make sure you have this installed and a good ground from the sending unit body through this clip and fuel line to ground to test everything before pulling just the sending unit and ruling that as the cause.
View attachment 1715689475
THIS!!! Ask me how I know. Don't just throw money at the problem. Never mind, he's back in business. Y'all have a bunch of smart, and mostly friendly SOB's. I love this forum.
Might be a dumb question but the previous owner installed an inline electric fuel pump right after the sending unit. This has moved the metal fuel line much further away from the sending unit. Can I ground the sending unit right to chassis ground or does it need to go to the metal fuel line? Obviously my gauge is not working and the previous owner has a bare wire wrapped around the sending unit and ran to chassis groundThe sending unit grounds to the metal fuel line. The metal fuel line grounds to the body with the metal fuel line mounting clips. Plenty of areas for grounding failure because of corrosion after 50 years. There is also a clip that jumpers over the rubber fuel line to connect the sender unit to the metal chassis fuel line. If you dont have this jumper clip installed, then you have no ground from the sending unit. Make sure you have this installed and a good ground from the sending unit body through this clip and fuel line to ground to test everything before pulling just the sending unit and ruling that as the cause.
View attachment 1715689475
^^THIS^^ I have no reason to assume that the fuel line is well grounded. What attaches it to the body? Bent clips. 40-50-60 years of rust and corrosion, is it still grounded?Ground it to the chassis.
In the picture here, the wire harness plugs into where I've circled in yellow. The studs for the gauge make contact to the copper traces through the nuts that secure it to the board - circled in red. So, to answer your question, no wires go to the lugs on the gauge.okay so I am going to ask another dumb question.... I grounded the sender wire and no movement from the gauge. i have an extra cluster so i plan on swapping and seeing what happens. my question is that there are no wires going to the lugs on the fuel gauge so are there supposed to be? or does it get everything through the circuit board?
Yeah i had an extra circuit board so I put that in. still no dice. I am going to replace the IVR and cross my fingers. the gauge will move from below empty to the empty line if that makes sense (yes its not empty) but will not move when I ground the sender wire.@Roy Worrell Have you taken a look at your current circuit board? Not sure if you saw earlier in this thread, but I had a copper trace that was broken. Those pins are also pretty fragile. Lots of delicate parts back there that may be causing you problems.