Kendog 170
Let the boy go !
I've never done one but believe you solder them ?
Fuel/Water Temp Gauge Issue Found! Now what...
- Thread starter Righty Tighty
- Start date
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Kendog 170
Let the boy go !
Looks like it just clips right on just like the Mustange one. Heres a pic of Dart
Kendog 170
Let the boy go !
Here's Mustang
The float is simply clamped in a shaped wire. Here's the issue, if have a working OEM sender, a new float, and a new seal, and a new pick up sock will cost as much or more than a entire new aftermarket sender. Those senders are typically wrong at the gauge. Then you'll need a meter match module to make it closer to accurate. Sux dont it?
My first thought was to find just a replacement float. My preferred local parts store was closed for the evening, so I had to call the national chain store. The guy had no idea what I was talking about when I asked for a fuel sender float and said, "Hang on, let me Google it." I told him never mind and hung up. I do like the idea of soldering the float, may give that a go.
As far as rebuilding vs buying a new replacement - I'm not 100% sure the one I have is original. I mean, it definitely doesn't look 50 years old. It looks fairly new.
As far as rebuilding vs buying a new replacement - I'm not 100% sure the one I have is original. I mean, it definitely doesn't look 50 years old. It looks fairly new.
I would inclined to try and swap the float out vs a new one with my limited electrical skills lol.
I have found the float cracked right where the formed wire clip ends. I'm guessing the brass gets thinner/weaker where its shaped for the wire.
Kendog 170
Let the boy go !
Lots of them on Flea Bay
1965 -1973 1979 - 1989 Ford Mustang Fuel Sender Sending Unit Brass Float NEW! | eBay
1965 -1973 1979 - 1989 Ford Mustang Fuel Sender Sending Unit Brass Float NEW! | eBay
Or get from Mike, hes got lots of stuff, cheap. I've dealt with him before. No issues.
Carburetor Parts Catalog| Mike's Carburetor Parts
Carburetor Parts Catalog| Mike's Carburetor Parts
Kendog 170
Let the boy go !
Fuel tank float not carb float.
I used to buy the floats from the local ford dealership. They were dirt cheap and are EXACTLY the same part that mopar used.
There is also a plastic version floating around now.
There is also a plastic version floating around now.
, yer right. He may have sender floats too, worth a shot before ebay?
Welp, found a replacement float for $15. Looks like it'll be a direct fit. They're not quite lined up in the photo, so they don't look like they're the same size. But they are.
Boy, what a wonderful sight to see! This is the first time since buying the car that the fuel gauge has worked. Thanks everyone for your helpful input.
THIS!!! Ask me how I know. Don't just throw money at the problem. Never mind, he's back in business. Y'all have a bunch of smart, and mostly friendly SOB's. I love this forum.
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
Floats are all over evilbay. 60s chevy use same one. I am betting the same manufacturer made these brass floats for all the car makers in the 50s/60s/70s.
While I am back in business, you're absolutely right. It's tempting, especially for me as a newbie, to just start replacing parts in hopes that eventually the problem will go away. That's great if you're made of money and don't necessarily care about actually diagnosing and finding the problem, but I'd bet that most people who own and drive old cars AREN'T made of money and DO care about diagnosing the problem. Troubleshooting is one skill that I've found to be incredibly important.
And I completely agree, this is a really great forum!!
Roy Worrell
Member
Might be a dumb question but the previous owner installed an inline electric fuel pump right after the sending unit. This has moved the metal fuel line much further away from the sending unit. Can I ground the sending unit right to chassis ground or does it need to go to the metal fuel line? Obviously my gauge is not working and the previous owner has a bare wire wrapped around the sending unit and ran to chassis ground
Ground it to the chassis.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
^^THIS^^ I have no reason to assume that the fuel line is well grounded. What attaches it to the body? Bent clips. 40-50-60 years of rust and corrosion, is it still grounded?
I've worked on aircraft for 40+ years, I can't stress enough how important grounds are, especially in modern computer equipped cars. When troubleshooting my friends cars or trucks, this is a common culprit.
Roy Worrell
Member
okay so I am going to ask another dumb question.... I grounded the sender wire and no movement from the gauge. i have an extra cluster so i plan on swapping and seeing what happens. my question is that there are no wires going to the lugs on the fuel gauge so are there supposed to be? or does it get everything through the circuit board?
In the picture here, the wire harness plugs into where I've circled in yellow. The studs for the gauge make contact to the copper traces through the nuts that secure it to the board - circled in red. So, to answer your question, no wires go to the lugs on the gauge.
@Roy Worrell Have you taken a look at your current circuit board? Not sure if you saw earlier in this thread, but I had a copper trace that was broken. Those pins are also pretty fragile. Lots of delicate parts back there that may be causing you problems.
Roy Worrell
Member
Yeah i had an extra circuit board so I put that in. still no dice. I am going to replace the IVR and cross my fingers. the gauge will move from below empty to the empty line if that makes sense (yes its not empty) but will not move when I ground the sender wire.
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