Lets talk Torque wrenchs

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dodgedifferent2

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Looking for an affordable Torque wrench.

Working on a dana 60 that needs 250 ft-lbs

My torque wrench only goes to 150. Also want to be sure it does left hand threads as well because i ran into that once.

Whats your choices?
 
My choice would be an older Craftsman beam type torque wrench.
 
Harbor freight 3/4 drive?
Works for me! I have a snap on 3/8 non ratchet torque wrench and I tested a bolt that I tightened with one and the other was super close to it rotation wise. So they were both as accurate as the other one. It was a 1/2 drive model. I don't even own a 3/4 sockets.
The HF 3/4 is about $84
 
I forgot which channel it was but I saw well known youtube channel test different brand torque wrenches against each other, and across the board the Harbor Freight was with about 2% or 3% within the Snap on equivalent. And at some points was more accurate than the Snap on.
 
I forgot which channel it was but I saw well known youtube channel test different brand torque wrenches against each other, and across the board the Harbor Freight was with about 2% or 3% within the Snap on equivalent. And at some points was more accurate than the Snap on.
:rofl::rofl: I wouldn't doubt.
 
You will thank me when you go to torque on the yoke.

I ripped the end off of my 40+ year old 1/2 drive craftsman breaker bar.

I bought a 3/4 socket, breaker bar and ratchet from eBay / HF and it was like using a hot knife to cut thru butter.

The right tool for the job!
 
One thing to watch on rebuild kits is if you get lock nuts as replacement parts. They will torque differently than the spec calls for.

I have a Husky 1/2" that maxes out at 250ft/lbs

I agree on the 3/4" drive, it makes life way easier.
 
I've been pretty happy with SK click type torque wrenches.
Even sent one out and got it repaired and calibrated. Can't do that with the cheapoes.
Whether the SK sold today are the same as 10 years ago, I don't know.
 
If yall will remember, you're not supposed to max out a click type torque wrench. I think the spec has always been like 20% from the max....somethin like that I don't remember exactly. But I know you're not supposed to max them out.
 
If yall will remember, you're not supposed to max out a click type torque wrench. I think the spec has always been like 20% from the max....somethin like that I don't remember exactly. But I know you're not supposed to max them out.
True that.
 
If yall will remember, you're not supposed to max out a click type torque wrench. I think the spec has always been like 20% from the max....somethin like that I don't remember exactly. But I know you're not supposed to max them out.

Would they not build it with that 20% built in?

No harbour freight in Canada. Maybe next trip to the states i will stop by
 
Would they not build it with that 20% built in?

No harbour freight in Canada. Maybe next trip to the states i will stop by
I wish I had kept some calibration/ certification paperwork for the dozens I have had done. They adjust them through the torque range to the maximum. Yes, it is best not to use at it's maximum capacity.
 
I got a 1/2" drive 250 ft-lb beam type Sturtevant off Ebay for $35 including shipping. It works as well now as it did when it was new 60 years ago.
I don't mind paying for quality tools, but I hate to put a lot of money in something I'll only use a few times.
 
I always like to look up torque specs take the wrench set it just shy of what it's supposed to be and then see if it clicks.. then set it just above and see if it breaks loose. That's how I Loosely check my torque wrenches. I used a husky for years like 18 years or so, built a fk load of motors and head jobs etc..then it started getting click less on 40fts or less...so I picked up an autozone performance tool or some ****.. icr... but I checked it the same way I checked the last and have 2 head swaps and 3 motors under its belt. I think it's easier to find a shity mechanic than it is to find a shity torque wrench these days..
 
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One of my old beam type has 2 drivers opposite of each other. Very handy.
 
I forgot which channel it was but I saw well known youtube channel test different brand torque wrenches against each other, and across the board the Harbor Freight was with about 2% or 3% within the Snap on equivalent. And at some points was more accurate than the Snap on.
Project Farm
 
If yall will remember, you're not supposed to max out a click type torque wrench. I think the spec has always been like 20% from the max....somethin like that I don't remember exactly. But I know you're not supposed to max them out.
I've also always been told to zero the wrench after using it. How important is it to do that? Or am I wasting my time?
 
A Click type, pretty much operates like an automatic center punch, when the pressure overrides the spring, you leave a punch mark. On the click type torque wrench you override the spring settings and you hear the click. Returning to the lowest setting will relieve the spring pressure thus the spring relaxes.
 
I've also always been told to zero the wrench after using it. How important is it to do that? Or am I wasting my time?
I wonder where Rusty is this morning. Hope all is well.

Yes, a micrometer type wrench should be backed off to the lowest setting after use. Like Dicer mentioned above, to take the tension off the spring. The split beam wrenches, like the Precision Instruments wrenches, can be left at a set torque. I sold dozens of those at tire shops for torquing lug nuts. Leave it set and fast and easy to adjust.

torque_wrench_half_3317.jpg
 
Would they not build it with that 20% built in?

No harbour freight in Canada. Maybe next trip to the states i will stop by


I bought a 3/4" drive torque wrench from Princess Auto for I think $70 or $80 on sale.

I had the calibration checked at work and the calibration guy said it was extremely accurate.

If you're close to Georgetown I can lend you mine.
 
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