mopowers
Well-Known Member
Lookin good! It's too bad they covered up the metal work with sound mat. It would've been nice to see how they finished that new transmission hump.
This shot from underneath looks like they painted it. I know that they used some sort of sealer in the seams before they painted it as I saw it this past Saturday when I stopped by the shop.Lookin good! It's too bad they covered up the metal work with sound mat. It would've been nice to see how they finished that new transmission hump.
This shot from underneath looks like they painted it. I know that they used some sort of sealer in the seams before they painted it as I saw it this past Saturday when I stopped by the shop.
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A lot of the Fox Mustang headers are two bolt ball flange....and pretty nice, too.Those header collectors are unusual. I've never seen 2 bolt collectors before.
It appears they just eliminated the hoop connecting the two sides of the torsion bar cross member.
That's a lotta kranmisshun.I've seen T-5s up close. They are a small transmission compared to others.
THIS is my TKO-600:
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Part of the fitment problem is the shape, not just the size. The TKX is supposed to be rounded at the top corners instead of being squared off.
Hooker headers.Those header collectors are unusual. I've never seen 2 bolt collectors before.
Also, do you have any idea how the TKX compares in size to the T5?
Wow. Thanks! So they appear really close in size.
Looks like the TKX it’s just a little bit rounder.Wow. Thanks! So they appear really close in size.
Almost ready to go!
Transmission fully in and ready to go.
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I decided to have the shop install Hotchkis subframe connectors before I take delivery of my car. After they finish the work, the cars going on the dyno for a quick remap of the Holley Sniper (because I'm changing over to progressive linkage). Everything should be ready to go by Friday. Once the clutch is bedded properly (after a few hundred miles of normal driving), I'll take the car back to the shop for some full throttle runs and another fuel remap if needed.
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Awesome progress. So it looks like they didn't put back the loop for the upper part of the crossmember, would there be any possible strength/rigidity issues associated with that? Subframe connectors are a great idea but not sure how much they'd help that area specifically? Just curious, asking because I plan to do this same upgrade eventually and I'll most likely be doing all the work myself.
I think that the lower crossmember that came with the transmission kit will do the job just fine. When you think about it the upper crossmember is actually a little bit weaker than putting a lower heavy duty crossmember across the chassis. Anyway, I hope that it all works out!
I love the build and adding the subframe connectors will help.
But I disagree about the upper crossmember. When the original transmission mount is in place the upper hoop of the crossmember triangulates that whole section. And the fact that it's welded to the floor pan further stiffens both the floor pan and the crossmember. Now, the new transmission mount/crossmember is definitely more stout than the original, but even with that being the case I'm not sure it truly makes up for the loss of the upper hoop of the original crossmember and how it's tied into the floor pan.
I don't think you'll have any obvious problems, especially with the subframe connectors installed, but in a torsion bar car where the suspension loads are carried by that crossmember I'm not a fan of losing the crossmembers upper hoop. Just my opinion.
I love the build and adding the subframe connectors will help.
But I disagree about the upper crossmember. When the original transmission mount is in place the upper hoop of the crossmember triangulates that whole section. And the fact that it's welded to the floor pan further stiffens both the floor pan and the crossmember. Now, the new transmission mount/crossmember is definitely more stout than the original, but even with that being the case I'm not sure it truly makes up for the loss of the upper hoop of the original crossmember and how it's tied into the floor pan.
I don't think you'll have any obvious problems, especially with the subframe connectors installed, but in a torsion bar car where the suspension loads are carried by that crossmember I'm not a fan of losing the crossmembers upper hoop. Just my opinion.
I do plan on racing mine and beating the **** out of it so I probably will fab something to go back on the upper crossmember. I remember reading a tech article in Mopar Action years ago where they swapped a fatty modern OD auto into a B-body, they ended up slicing up the upper crossmember hoop to lengthen it and get the new shape right then welded the whole thing back in.
On another note @jcolman are those subframe connectors being welded in or bolted? Bolting them is far less effective at stiffening the structure...
They're welded in.I do plan on racing mine and beating the **** out of it so I probably will fab something to go back on the upper crossmember. I remember reading a tech article in Mopar Action years ago where they swapped a fatty modern OD auto into a B-body, they ended up slicing up the upper crossmember hoop to lengthen it and get the new shape right then welded the whole thing back in.
On another note @jcolman are those subframe connectors being welded in or bolted? Bolting them is far less effective at stiffening the structure...
My kit was just over $6k but included everything along with a driveshaftPretty cool man. I'm really close to pulling the trigger on a TKX. Quote was $5250 Feb 2021 and then $6k Feb 2022. That's before taxes. Expensive and I think a few other parts will be needed like a driveshaft as well.
My kit was just over $6k but included everything along with a driveshaft