LED Tail Lights

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dart4forte

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Anyone on them aftermarket make a LED kit for the early A bodies?
 
There are individual bulbs to replace your existing incandescent bulbs.
 
I have the Slyvania Zevo LED’s in the brake and turn signals on my Jeep & Expedition they work well. And they offer a 1157
 
And you will need to replace the flasher with an electronic unit. You 'may' have to reverse the leads going to the flasher for it to work.
 
The overwhelming majority of "LED bulbs" on the market are fraudulent, unsafe junk. Here's what to know about LED retrofit bulbs in vehicle signal lamps (brake lights, tail lights, parking lights, turn signals, etc).

First, the quick nutshell version:

-Answer to "Will it work?" is a whole lot more complicated than just yes/no.

-Fundamentally different kind of light source, so unlike with filament bulbs, physical fit doesn't guarantee optical compatibility or acceptable performance.

-Giant mountain of unsafe junk on the market, all fraudulently hyped as an upgrade.

-There are a few legitimate products that work OK in some of the lamps they fit in; important to check the actual function carefully.

Longer version:

Start with how signal lamps (parking lamps, turn signals, side marker lights, brake lights, tail lights, reversing lamps) have to work. It's a lot more complicated than just "Yep, that lights up and looks good to me". Please take a look at this post, which goes into detail on how exterior safety/signal lights have to work. I'm point you at it not because I think you should go to the trouble of the involved measurements described (that was more for his build-from-scratch project), but just so you get some idea of the complexity involved beyond "Yep, it lights up".

Bulb-type lamps (brake light, tail light, parking light, turn signal, sidemarker, DRL, whatever) rely on a point source of light, a glowing filament, that radiates more or less equally in all directions—a sphere of light—collecting and distributing that light with optics in the lens and/or reflector. A group of LEDs can't duplicate this at the required scale, so the light distribution from bulb-type lamps equipped with "LED bulbs" like this is often seriously damaged.

The few legitimate LED bulbs that exist work well in some of the lamps they fit in. In others, they work poorly. Their performance has to be carefully assessed in whatever particular lamp they're installed in, by comparing them side-by-side with the original incandescents as reasonably well described (in an accessible DIY manner) here .

And in still other lamps, they don't work at all, because all the legitimate LED retrofit bulbs have only rear/side-facing emitters. That works in some lamps with a reflector bowl behind the bulb to gather and magnify the light (such as '64 Valiant tail/brake lights), but there's a whole other kind of lamp that doesn't use—or doesn't only use—a reflector bowl, such as the '64 Valiant park/turn lights up front. Instead, these lamps have Fresnel-type optics, the kind where the lens has a central magnifying area directly in line with the filament of the installed bulb, and spreader optics surrounding that magnifier. Often the magnifier is a round bullseye and the spreaders are a series of round prismatic rings surrounding the bullseye, but sometimes the magnifier is square or rectangular and the surrounding prisms are rectilinear. If there's no light directly out the front of the LED bulb, there will be minimal to zero output from the lamp.

If you want to try this, the Sylvania Zevo bulbs already mentioned in this thread are the (only) legitimate ones worth a try. That's these.

You will need a different kind of turn signal flasher to operate the LED bulbs correctly; that's this one (2-prong like original; connect its ground wire conveniently).

Whether you wind up using LED bulbs or sticking with the spec filament items, give the lamps a fighting chance to do their job for you: clean the lenses in hot soapy water. Stuff wads of masking tape in the bulb holes, or remove the sockets if they're the removable type, clean the reflector bowls with alcohol, then paint them with Ceiling White paint (specifically! Not just any old white paint; go to a paint store and get Ceiling White), which is practically ideal for the task and does a better job than the chrome/aluminum types of paints.
 
I have been using these for awhile in my rear brake lights on my 69 Cuda. They are much brighter than stock & seem to illuminate the lenses really well. They seem bright at varying viewing angles. I left the front turn signal bulbs stock, since my goal was to increase brake light brightness. That way I did not have to change the flasher, it still worked the same.

Dan, do you know anything about these bulbs? Wondering if I made the right decision.

AF5B7AA6-66E2-42E3-815D-24502C5F20F4.jpg
 
The overwhelming majority of "LED bulbs" on the market are fraudulent, unsafe junk. Here's what to know about LED retrofit bulbs in vehicle signal lamps (brake lights, tail lights, parking lights, turn signals, etc).

First, the quick nutshell version:

-Answer to "Will it work?" is a whole lot more complicated than just yes/no.

-Fundamentally different kind of light source, so unlike with filament bulbs, physical fit doesn't guarantee optical compatibility or acceptable performance.

-Giant mountain of unsafe junk on the market, all fraudulently hyped as an upgrade.

-There are a few legitimate products that work OK in some of the lamps they fit in; important to check the actual function carefully.

Longer version:

Start with how signal lamps (parking lamps, turn signals, side marker lights, brake lights, tail lights, reversing lamps) have to work. It's a lot more complicated than just "Yep, that lights up and looks good to me". Please take a look at this post, which goes into detail on how exterior safety/signal lights have to work. I'm point you at it not because I think you should go to the trouble of the involved measurements described (that was more for his build-from-scratch project), but just so you get some idea of the complexity involved beyond "Yep, it lights up".

Bulb-type lamps (brake light, tail light, parking light, turn signal, sidemarker, DRL, whatever) rely on a point source of light, a glowing filament, that radiates more or less equally in all directions—a sphere of light—collecting and distributing that light with optics in the lens and/or reflector. A group of LEDs can't duplicate this at the required scale, so the light distribution from bulb-type lamps equipped with "LED bulbs" like this is often seriously damaged.

The few legitimate LED bulbs that exist work well in some of the lamps they fit in. In others, they work poorly. Their performance has to be carefully assessed in whatever particular lamp they're installed in, by comparing them side-by-side with the original incandescents as reasonably well described (in an accessible DIY manner) here .

And in still other lamps, they don't work at all, because all the legitimate LED retrofit bulbs have only rear/side-facing emitters. That works in some lamps with a reflector bowl behind the bulb to gather and magnify the light (such as '64 Valiant tail/brake lights), but there's a whole other kind of lamp that doesn't use—or doesn't only use—a reflector bowl, such as the '64 Valiant park/turn lights up front. Instead, these lamps have Fresnel-type optics, the kind where the lens has a central magnifying area directly in line with the filament of the installed bulb, and spreader optics surrounding that magnifier. Often the magnifier is a round bullseye and the spreaders are a series of round prismatic rings surrounding the bullseye, but sometimes the magnifier is square or rectangular and the surrounding prisms are rectilinear. If there's no light directly out the front of the LED bulb, there will be minimal to zero output from the lamp.

If you want to try this, the Sylvania Zevo bulbs already mentioned in this thread are the (only) legitimate ones worth a try. That's these.

You will need a different kind of turn signal flasher to operate the LED bulbs correctly; that's this one (2-prong like original; connect its ground wire conveniently).

Whether you wind up using LED bulbs or sticking with the spec filament items, give the lamps a fighting chance to do their job for you: clean the lenses in hot soapy water. Stuff wads of masking tape in the bulb holes, or remove the sockets if they're the removable type, clean the reflector bowls with alcohol, then paint them with Ceiling White paint (specifically! Not just any old white paint; go to a paint store and get Ceiling White), which is practically ideal for the task and does a better job than the chrome/aluminum types of paints.


What brand does that ceiling white come in?
 
All the paint suppliers make it. Go in any paint store or to the paint counter at Ace Hardware or Home Despot or otherwise like that, ask for "ceiling white", and you'll get it—unless the staffer is clueless and goes "So just white paint?", in which case go talk to someone else.

Ceiling White is formulated for extremely high reflectivity. It makes regular white look like dirty dishwater by comparison.
 
All the paint suppliers make it. Go in any paint store or to the paint counter at Ace Hardware or Home Despot or otherwise like that, ask for "ceiling white", and you'll get it—unless the staffer is clueless and goes "So just white paint?", in which case go talk to someone else.

Ceiling White is formulated for extremely high reflectivity. It makes regular white look like dirty dishwater by comparison.

So, I take it it’s not an automotive paint. I just got back from ACE. The guy there is very experienced. He knew what Ceiling white was. So,safe to assume I’ll have to brush it on.
 
The overwhelming majority of "LED bulbs" on the market are fraudulent, unsafe junk. Here's what to know about LED retrofit bulbs in vehicle signal lamps (brake lights, tail lights, parking lights, turn signals, etc).

First, the quick nutshell version:

-Answer to "Will it work?" is a whole lot more complicated than just yes/no.

-Fundamentally different kind of light source, so unlike with filament bulbs, physical fit doesn't guarantee optical compatibility or acceptable performance.

-Giant mountain of unsafe junk on the market, all fraudulently hyped as an upgrade.

-There are a few legitimate products that work OK in some of the lamps they fit in; important to check the actual function carefully.

Longer version:

Start with how signal lamps (parking lamps, turn signals, side marker lights, brake lights, tail lights, reversing lamps) have to work. It's a lot more complicated than just "Yep, that lights up and looks good to me". Please take a look at this post, which goes into detail on how exterior safety/signal lights have to work. I'm point you at it not because I think you should go to the trouble of the involved measurements described (that was more for his build-from-scratch project), but just so you get some idea of the complexity involved beyond "Yep, it lights up".

Bulb-type lamps (brake light, tail light, parking light, turn signal, sidemarker, DRL, whatever) rely on a point source of light, a glowing filament, that radiates more or less equally in all directions—a sphere of light—collecting and distributing that light with optics in the lens and/or reflector. A group of LEDs can't duplicate this at the required scale, so the light distribution from bulb-type lamps equipped with "LED bulbs" like this is often seriously damaged.

The few legitimate LED bulbs that exist work well in some of the lamps they fit in. In others, they work poorly. Their performance has to be carefully assessed in whatever particular lamp they're installed in, by comparing them side-by-side with the original incandescents as reasonably well described (in an accessible DIY manner) here .

And in still other lamps, they don't work at all, because all the legitimate LED retrofit bulbs have only rear/side-facing emitters. That works in some lamps with a reflector bowl behind the bulb to gather and magnify the light (such as '64 Valiant tail/brake lights), but there's a whole other kind of lamp that doesn't use—or doesn't only use—a reflector bowl, such as the '64 Valiant park/turn lights up front. Instead, these lamps have Fresnel-type optics, the kind where the lens has a central magnifying area directly in line with the filament of the installed bulb, and spreader optics surrounding that magnifier. Often the magnifier is a round bullseye and the spreaders are a series of round prismatic rings surrounding the bullseye, but sometimes the magnifier is square or rectangular and the surrounding prisms are rectilinear. If there's no light directly out the front of the LED bulb, there will be minimal to zero output from the lamp.

If you want to try this, the Sylvania Zevo bulbs already mentioned in this thread are the (only) legitimate ones worth a try. That's these.

You will need a different kind of turn signal flasher to operate the LED bulbs correctly; that's this one (2-prong like original; connect its ground wire conveniently).

Whether you wind up using LED bulbs or sticking with the spec filament items, give the lamps a fighting chance to do their job for you: clean the lenses in hot soapy water. Stuff wads of masking tape in the bulb holes, or remove the sockets if they're the removable type, clean the reflector bowls with alcohol, then paint them with Ceiling White paint (specifically! Not just any old white paint; go to a paint store and get Ceiling White), which is practically ideal for the task and does a better job than the chrome/aluminum types of paints.

Dan, this is what I found so far. This is a flat however there’s a gloss

6B0AFEF7-2B98-4006-9A3A-25FB9977922A.jpeg
 
Yup, that'll do it (and a gallon ought to set you up for several lifetimes' worth of lamps). You don't need a shiny/glossy surface to do the job.

Want to see why this is a better idea than chrome/aluminum spray paint (which is admittedly easier)? Lookit:

 
Yup, that'll do it (and a gallon ought to set you up for several lifetimes' worth of lamps). You don't need a shiny/glossy surface to do the job.

Want to see why this is a better idea than chrome/aluminum spray paint (which is admittedly easier)? Lookit:


Yup, that'll do it (and a gallon ought to set you up for several lifetimes' worth of lamps). You don't need a shiny/glossy surface to do the job.

Want to see why this is a better idea than chrome/aluminum spray paint (which is admittedly easier)? Lookit:



Thanks Dan, no on the gallon, paint guy will do me a pint.
 
Hi Dan, not to derail this thread-though I guess the original question has been asked and answered. I just read the headlight info on your website where the NHTSA was supposedly looking to improve our headlight regulations. You sure put a lot of time & research into your responses. Thank you for trying to get better lighting here. Isn't the feeling of wasting your time a real pisser though?
"This is better, addresses all your concerns, wont cost any more, and probably actually be less of a cost"--"hmmm, no, we're gonna just keep doing what we're doing."
Since then, the bouncy projector beams seem to have gone away, but now all these travelling LED lightshows are taking over.
 
Hi Dan, not to derail this thread-though I guess the original question has been asked and answered. I just read the headlight info on your website where the NHTSA was supposedly looking to improve our headlight regulations. You sure put a lot of time & research into your responses. Thank you for trying to get better lighting here. Isn't the feeling of wasting your time a real pisser though?

Yes, it is!
 
I don't understand what all the hupala is about LED tailight and parking bulbs.
I have been using LED tail light bulbs just like Mike69cuda's for several years. I purchased them off eBay for under $10 for 4 bulbs. No modifications. Just plug them in. Like Mike, I left the stock bulbs in the park lights. Early Barracuda park lights are the coolest at night.
 
I installed red LED 1157 (brake/turn & running) that look like in Mike69Cuda post 6. A bit brighter than the filament bulbs and the red makes the lamp look red (not yellowish) and more uniform. Just put similar ones for the 1156 running lamps in the trunk lid to match. Look for many SMD LED's for uniformity and an end projector lens, often with 3 brighter SMD LED's and at least 3 W for more brightness. Avoid the older LED with individual glass bulb LED elements and only use white ones for backup lamp, unless you prefer yellowish brake lamps. More info in my turn signal thread.
 
have a write up on those? Thats exactly what Im wanting on my 65 dart.
they are on this forum I'm making a set for a friends 65 but the reverse lights are not quite bright enough for me (or him) yet. I custom made my 66's and it was a chore getting the right lumens to actually be "legal" if I had to DOT test them, unlike the ones that some companies make for the later darts and dusters. they are pretty but not really lumen legal. Mine would pass the DOT inspection for lighting thnaksfully since I don't want to get rear- ended after all that work:steering:


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they are on this forum I'm making a set for a friends 65 but the reverse lights are not quite bright enough for me (or him) yet. I custom made my 66's and it was a chore getting the right lumens to actually be "legal" if I had to DOT test them, unlike the ones that some companies make for the later darts and dusters. they are pretty but not really lumen legal. Mine would pass the DOT inspection for lighting thnaksfully since I don't want to get rear- ended after all that work:steering:


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Are these something your selling?
 
Are these something your selling?
once I proof his 65's and we are satisfied with the reverse led setup then yup, I'll be making the 66 and 65 set. I have already made an All 4 turn/tail/stop harness for my 66's and will see if the 65's can be made to work like that also but with reverse light also. there is a LOT of holes to drill and I want to try surfacemount tech on the next generation of leds.
 
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