Just installed the USCT rear springs inboard kit and had one problem. There is no way the shackle bushing will fit into the sleeve that gets welded in. Is there a smaller diameter bushing or did I get the wrong sleeve?
Not sure if you are too far into this to consider these but they make a big difference in freeing up the rear suspension.Just installed the USCT rear springs inboard kit and had one problem. There is no way the shackle bushing will fit into the sleeve that gets welded in. Is there a smaller diameter bushing or did I get the wrong sleeve?
View attachment 1716066177
Couldn’t find my calipers to measure but if I had to guess, I would say they are about 3/32” smaller than the bushings.What is the inner diameter of the sleeve?
I thought about doing this and I still can but I already got everything welded up and just want to get the right bushings for now.Not sure if you are too far into this to consider these but they make a big difference in freeing up the rear suspension.
SPRING SLIDERS for Calvert Springs (SL-300CR ) – Calvert Racing, Inc.
I’m going to try to find the correct bushings first. It I can’t find them, I’ll reach out to you.There are small and large bushings. I know E body uses a larger dia bushing, I believe its 1". A body uses the smaller bushing but I dont know if that applies to all of them.
I got the wrong bushings twice from rock auto so I ended up getting them from Mancini.
I have a pair of sleeves I made up but did not use. They are for the larger 1" bushings. Let me know if your interested in them.
Those are super sexy right there!Not sure if you are too far into this to consider these but they make a big difference in freeing up the rear suspension.
SPRING SLIDERS for Calvert Springs (SL-300CR ) – Calvert Racing, Inc.
how do they work on a street bruiser ??Not sure if you are too far into this to consider these but they make a big difference in freeing up the rear suspension.
SPRING SLIDERS for Calvert Springs (SL-300CR ) – Calvert Racing, Inc.
How do those handle on a street bruiser ???
how do they work on a street bruiser ??
Well crap. Looks like more cutting and welding for me. lolThey work great on the street. I installed spring sliders on my Duster almost 8 years ago now. Mine aren't at the frame rails though, mine are set up a 1/2" inboard for my DoctorDiff spring offset kit. I just made a bracket so the modification is reversible
View attachment 1716066393
The slider improves the spring reaction, since it doesn't have to work through the resistance of the bushings. They also control the side to side flex of the springs a lot better than the shackle/bushing arrangement, which lets the spring flex around quite a bit, which translates into the axle shifting side to side that amount. They use an aluminum bushing and a bearing roller set up, which does occasionally make some noise when it works (they "click" some). But the noise isn't all that noticeable, I pretty much never hear it over my exhaust or stereo.
@younggun2.0 installed his spring sliders with a 3" relocation kit, he also raised them from the bottom of the frame to lower the car. This is his set up..
View attachment 1716066388
View attachment 1716066392
View attachment 1716066391
As @72bluNblu said they work great. I see quite a few street miles with full caltrac setup, inboarded springs, viking double adjustable shocks and 295 65 15 et street R's the car drives way better than stock and handles pretty dam well. A buddy got this pic down at rodrun last year in long beach wa where we do a lot of driving.How do those handle on a street bruiser ???
how do they work on a street bruiser ??
That is super trick with putting them into the frame rail. I was going to go that route myslef but I dont have enough wheel tub to lower the car any more with a 30" tall tire. Mine is mini tubbed but I regret not cutting the entire stock wheel tub out and going with aftermarket tubs, would have been easier and cleaner for what I'm doing.They work great on the street. I installed spring sliders on my Duster almost 8 years ago now. Mine aren't at the frame rails though, mine are set up a 1/2" inboard for my DoctorDiff spring offset kit. I just made a bracket so the modification is reversible
View attachment 1716066393
The slider improves the spring reaction, since it doesn't have to work through the resistance of the bushings. They also control the side to side flex of the springs a lot better than the shackle/bushing arrangement, which lets the spring flex around quite a bit, which translates into the axle shifting side to side that amount. They use an aluminum bushing and a bearing roller set up, which does occasionally make some noise when it works (they "click" some). But the noise isn't all that noticeable, I pretty much never hear it over my exhaust or stereo.
@younggun2.0 installed his spring sliders with a 3" relocation kit, he also raised them from the bottom of the frame to lower the car. This is his set up..
View attachment 1716066388
View attachment 1716066392
View attachment 1716066391
Well crap. Looks like more cutting and welding for me. lol
I really like how he frenched in the slider into the subframe.
Thank you,
Bill
Beautiful Dart man!As @72bluNblu said they work great. I see quite a few street miles with full caltrac setup, inboarded springs, viking double adjustable shocks and 295 65 15 st treet R's the car drives way better than stock and handles pretty dam well. A buddy got this pic down at rodrun last year in long beach wa where we do a lot of driving.
View attachment 1716066438
As @72bluNblu said they work great. I see quite a few street miles with full caltrac setup, inboarded springs, viking double adjustable shocks and 295 65 15 st treet R's the car drives way better than stock and handles pretty dam well. A buddy got this pic down at rodrun last year in long beach wa where we do a lot of driving.
View attachment 1716066438
Yeah, I won't be notching the sub-frame. Ordering up the Calvert setup now and will weld it on. The subframe is already somewhat plated with the inboard kit installed..... lolLol!
The way @younggun2.0 did it is super clean, but you don’t need to section them into the frame rails like that. Even just mounting them to the bottom of the frame rails will lower the car vs. the stock shackle set up. When I did mine it lowered the car about 3/8”, and mine are just mounted to the bottom.
You could just plate that area and add some threaded inserts so they bolted right up!
Also, we both used AFCO sliders that don’t have a built in angle. The Calvert version has some angle built in, which is better for tracking the movement of the spring.
Not at all lol, But it's really not that bad, the sliders make it a lot easier. I just throw jack stands under the subframe connectors, take out the rear spring eye bolts from the sliders, take out the lower shock bolts and lower it down, I have it down pretty good now. Whenever somebody asks about getting a flat I just mention I have no spare anyway so it's flatbed time. The things we do for big tires tucked in the wheel wells.Man, that looks awesome! Do those springs have enough droop in them to pull the wheels/tires without having to unbolt either the front or rear spring hanger? That's the issue I'm running into with my 66 with the 315/60s.
You have one BADASS Dart my friend!Not at all lol, But it's really not that bad, the sliders make it a lot easier. I just throw jack stands under the subframe connectors, take out the rear spring eye bolts from the sliders, take out the lower shock bolts and lower it down, I have it down pretty good now. Whenever somebody asks about getting a flat I just mention I have no spare anyway so it's flatbed time. The things we do for big tires tucked in the wheel wells.
Just a heads up I bought those same sliders at first and the bushings for the rear spring eye were like socks on a rooster. After some debate I bought the caltracs and they were a much better quality part, fit perfectly and an all around beefier part. I'm sure you can make them work but I wanted to let you know the set I got were off by a mile. I think the speedway sets are the same as the amazon, both look the same and are gold anodized.Im getting ready to install leaf spring sliders on my 71 cuda project. Glad to see others are using them and seem to be happy with them. Check out the knock off ones if your on a budget. I think I got mine through amazon.
[/URL][/URL][/URL]
I hear ya man! I may just have to switch to sliders and call it good. It's a little more of a pain with traditional shackles. I just love how it looks with the sidewall tucked in where it should though. Do you have any photos of your slider install?Not at all lol, But it's really not that bad, the sliders make it a lot easier. I just throw jack stands under the subframe connectors, take out the rear spring eye bolts from the sliders, take out the lower shock bolts and lower it down, I have it down pretty good now. Whenever somebody asks about getting a flat I just mention I have no spare anyway so it's flatbed time. The things we do for big tires tucked in the wheel wells.
Nothing to be sorry about. Great dialog and information.I hear ya man! I may just have to switch to sliders and call it good. It's a little more of a pain with traditional shackles. I just love how it looks with the sidewall tucked in where it should though. Do you have any photos of your slider install?
@-Boosted- - Sorry for the derail. Re. your original question: like others said, I think they made 1" and 7/8" bushings, depending on body type. Lots of aftermarket kits, springs, etc., mix these up. I have to buy two kits to replace the shackle bushings in my setup. But then I have enough to do it twice. haha.
Just a heads up I bought those same sliders at first and the bushings for the rear spring eye were like socks on a rooster. After some debate I bought the caltracs and they were a much better quality part, fit perfectly and an all around beefier part. I'm sure you can make them work but I wanted to let you know the set I got were off by a mile. I think the speedway sets are the same as the amazon, both look the same and are gold anodized.