Help spec'ing out a new small block

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I am posting this here because I only want racer level input and not what someone is running in their street/strip car.

I want to start planning out my next engine (and yes I know I haven't run my current combo down the track yet) and only want to do it once. What I am looking for is advice, suggestions and recommendations based on experience for this build. This engine will be a naturally aspirated, small block with no power adders. Plan is to run alcohol or e85 for fuel, leaning towards e85. Goal is low to mid 9's in a 2800 lb (or less) back half car.

1 - Block (which block should I go with?)
2 - Heads (Indy, Victor, W2 etc...)
3 - Rotating assembly (bore, stroke, piston type domed or flat top)
4 - Cam will be solid roller (ballpark lift and duration)

Option 2 would be to get the Indy 360-1 Head Kit and use my current short block which I am prepared to do if I don't go with a whole new build.

360-1 Head Kit - Indy Cylinder Head

360-1 Kit Includes: 360-1AS Head Assembly 360-3R Manifold 360-4 HS Rocker Assembly 360-9K Push Rod Kit Head Gaskets 360-16 Head Bolts 360-11 Rocker Shaft Stud Kit Intake/ Exhaust Gaskets
www.indyheads.com www.indyheads.com

Thanks in advance!

Bill
 
The 360-1 245 CNC would probably make you happy, I like your short block. Obviously I'm not a small block supremacist like many on fabo (lol)
But the same thing works big or small.
Big cfm, big induction, big compression, big cam.
I'm not sure how the ports would work with the current headers you have but maybe you have to have a set built. That's no big deal with the friends you have.
My other suggestion is Brett Miller.
 
MOPARMAGA said:
The 360-1 245 CNC would probably make you happy, I like your short block. Obviously I'm not a small block supremacist like many on fabo (lol)
But the same thing works big or small.
Big cfm, big induction, big compression, big cam.
I'm not sure how the ports would work with the current headers you have but maybe you have to have a set built. That's no big deal with the friends you have.
My other suggestion is Brett Miller.
Click to expand...
New headers (2” primaries) is the plan.
 
-Boosted- said:
I am posting this here because I only want racer level input and not what someone is running in their street/strip car.

I want to start planning out my next engine (and yes I know I haven't run my current combo down the track yet) and only want to do it once. What I am looking for is advice, suggestions and recommendations based on experience for this build. This engine will be a naturally aspirated, small block with no power adders. Plan is to run alcohol or e85 for fuel, leaning towards e85. Goal is low to mid 9's in a 2800 lb (or less) back half car.

1 - Block (which block should I go with?)
2 - Heads (Indy, Victor, W2 etc...)
3 - Rotating assembly (bore, stroke, piston type domed or flat top)
4 - Cam will be solid roller (ballpark lift and duration)

Option 2 would be to get the Indy 360-1 Head Kit and use my current short block which I am prepared to do if I don't go with a whole new build.

[/URL]

Thanks in advance!

Bill
Click to expand...

I’m not a fan of alcohol based fuel IF you can keep engine coolant temperature in check, which means 160 is as hot as needs to be.

Start with a Ritter block.

Ignore the feeling you need a 4 inch or longer stroke. You don’t. 3.79 is the MAX stroke I would use. If you buy a Ritter block (or maybe the Callie’s block which is said to be based on the R3 if they ever make it) you can easily go to a 4.200 bore. That would give you 421 CID.

For 421 inches you’ll need to be in the mid to high 270’s at .050 and as much lift as your valve gear will take.

Spend the money on Ti intake valves at the least.

I don’t like the big exhaust valve Indy uses, but unless you want to weld up new heads you are stuck with it.

Find a tunnel ram. Use two 1050’s.

Find an old Milodon Supper Stock pan. They don’t make them any more. They are the BEST pan for a chassis car there is. To argue that is foolish. Nothing comes close.

14:1, maybe a skosh more. And buy a nice piston with either .043 or 1mm rings. 1/16 rings are for tractors.

With the right heads and tuning you should be able to shift that at 7500 all day long.

Even at 1.35 TQ/CID at 7500 you‘d be making over 700 hp. Easy. Plus the higher rpm lets you use deeper gears.

Don’t forget a GOOD crank scraper. And windage tray.
 
-Boosted- said:
I am posting this here because I only want racer level input and not what someone is running in their street/strip car.

I want to start planning out my next engine (and yes I know I haven't run my current combo down the track yet) and only want to do it once. What I am looking for is advice, suggestions and recommendations based on experience for this build. This engine will be a naturally aspirated, small block with no power adders. Plan is to run alcohol or e85 for fuel, leaning towards e85. Goal is low to mid 9's in a 2800 lb (or less) back half car.

1 - Block (which block should I go with?)
2 - Heads (Indy, Victor, W2 etc...)
3 - Rotating assembly (bore, stroke, piston type domed or flat top)
4 - Cam will be solid roller (ballpark lift and duration)

Option 2 would be to get the Indy 360-1 Head Kit and use my current short block which I am prepared to do if I don't go with a whole new build.

[/URL][/URL]

Thanks in advance!

Bill
Click to expand...
Are you opening up the deep pockets and fat wallet for this?

Block - R3 or Ritter
Heads - The best flowing. Indy or Victor.
(I myself would do a Victor.)
Rotating assembly - Build it as big as you can, but…
I personally like a bigger bore over the stroke like Newbomb said with the 3.79 crank and as big as a bore as you can get.
Pistons are a dome in a small chamber.

Newbomb really covered it.
 
rumblefish360 said:
Are you opening up the deep pockets and fat wallet for this?

Block - R3 or Ritter
Heads - The best flowing. Indy or Victor.
(I myself would do a Victor.)
Rotating assembly - Build it as big as you can, but…
I personally like a bigger bore over the stroke like Newbomb said with the 3.79 crank and as big as a bore as you can get.
Pistons are a dome in a small chamber.

Newbomb really covered it.
Click to expand...
What Newbomb listed is what I’m leaning towards. R3 or Ritter? R3 is quite a bit cheaper from what I can find. Is there any specific reason I should choose the Ritter over the R3? With the amount I’ll be spending on this build, is the additional cost worth it?
 
Here you go.

IMG_0982.jpeg


IMG_0981.jpeg


IMG_0980.jpeg


IMG_0979.jpeg


IMG_0978.jpeg
 
So it sounds like a tall deck R3 and Victor heads will be good for what I’m trying to do. I’ve had a set of victors heads on order for 6 months now. Guess I need to call my contact at Edelbrock.

I’m ready to order the block if you guys tell me its good.

Thanks, Bill
 
Just KNOW exactly what R3 block you’re getting.
Big cubes are possible with a R3, if you get the right one.
Siamese bore!
 
-Boosted- said:
How about someone give me a part number? lol I’m finding several choices.
Click to expand...
Part number? Which one (block) do you want?
There’s a number of blocks to choose from.

Let’s skip part numbers a second here. What is it you want in the block? Big bore capability? Big bore cam tunnel? Lifter angle?
Block oiling or not? With the MP blocks, there’s 3 different deck heights. I’d go tall myself but…….
 
Bill I would be looking at an old NHRA Pro Stock Truck Engine. What you'll get for the money will far exceed what you build yourself for 10 times the price.

That's why I own a DRCE 3 engine for my AMC Hornet Outlaw Nostalgic Pro Stock car. $14,000 minus the carbs for 1275 HP.

A used W9 or P7 headed Nascar engine would also be a good place to start. Good group on Facebook Dodge/Mopar R5 P7 Swap & Race Tech

Tom
 
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