12:05 Garage- ’70 Duster build

-
WHat are the advantages of the new setup vs the old? I may have missed or forgotten haha
On the original K, I trimmed the tube where the LCA mounts so I could move it forward. This gave me the ability to have 8.5+ degrees of caster and the tire is no where near contacting the back side of the wheel opening. This new K incorporates that adjustment and also moves the LCA mounting point up slightly. This will move the roll center along with allowing me to drop the car that same amount effectively lowering the CG also. So in layman's terms, I ran the LCAs perfectly parallel with the ground. If I would have lowered the car anymore, that would have angled them down toward the center of the car, along with the UCAs having a steeper angle down. This would put the roll center close to the ground and further away from the CG making the moment arm for roll much greater. Now I can lower the car while only making minor changes to the roll center all while lowering the CG. Thus putting the CG and roll center lower overall. This is my theory at least, which is as useful as a spare tire with no air in it.
 
Moving the LCA up is something a TB suspension can't do. :D

So far with the TB suspension, F-Body spindles and 1" longer UBJ's, I can get a RC of about 8.46". This is based on layouts though, not something I have directly measured. Seems like this is great because the roll couple is shorter.

The thing is, I am getting feedback from other sources that say 2-3" above ground is the sweet spot even if the roll couple is longer. I've played with lowering the car more in some analysis software and angling the LCA up some, but it didn't make much difference, at least starting with the F-Body setup. The stock A-Body spindle and standard UBJ get's a RC of about 5.19", but that setup is counter to the "hot ticket" setup per Peter.

In some ways, the whole question of what the RC should be has kind of stalled my fabricated spindle project. Not really sure what to do with the UBJ location. Do I make it taller to match the tallest setup, or keep it short to try and get the RC down? So I walked away from it for awhile and put the project in time out so it can think about what it's done and maybe act better next time. :D

My only point is, the RC is still a mystery to me.
 
You can also do that with 73/74 b-body spindles gives it about an extra inch but they're the pin type calipers
 
The car's capability has already exceeded my driving capability. I also can't leave anything alone and I think @HemiDenny knows that.

Hey @HemiDenny when are you going to make a rear torque arm setup for these things?

you suffer the "what if" disease. BTW, there is no known cure.

HDK has incorporated the LCA (higher) pivot change on all new K-frames. Moving the LCA forward can also be requested but is not standard. On the silver Duster when built around 2005, the LCA was placed forward over 1" to center the wheel (with 6 degrees street friendly caster) in the 2" stretched opening. Likewise, UCAs with the ball joint pivot offset forward were required to accommodate the 1" forward wheel placement. Fits like a glove and unnoticeable to most.



20240917_110401.jpg
 
Last edited:
The car's capability has already exceeded my driving capability. I also can't leave anything alone and I think @HemiDenny knows that.

Hey @HemiDenny when are you going to make a rear torque arm setup for these things?

with the new HDK shop right next door and in partnership with my fab guy of 40 plus years.....in short order we can make almost anything dreamed up.

20250706_115149.jpg


20250706_115253.jpg


20241011_094223.jpg
 
I am sure this has been asked thousand times but what is the front splitter you are running from? The duster really suit the splitter look
 

I am sure this has been asked thousand times but what is the front splitter you are running from? The duster really suit the splitter look
It from an early-mid 90s Ford Ranger/explorer. It fits pretty good with very minor modifications to make it work. I do wish the sides were longer so it went all the way to the wheel opening.
 
New K is in and everything is buttoned up and alignment is done. I'm going with +8.5 degrees caster, -2 degrees camber and zero toe. I didn't even drive it before I took the transmission out. What a pain in the *** that is.
Here's what needs to happen just to get the trans out of this turd.
The console needs to be removed so I can remove the shifter. The headlight and wiper switch are in the console, so those need to be unplugged with some contortionist style wrist movement
The TKO needs to be on a rather steep angle to come out, so that means the engine needs to tilt back rather far. This steep angle means the intake manifold will squash the wires on the bulkhead behind it. So off comes the intake. Oh also motor mounts need to be loosened.
The X pipe also needs to be removed since the crossover lands right where the very end of the tail shaft is once the input shaft is pulled from the bellhousing. If the X was 3" further back, I could probably get away with just disconnecting the headers. I'll start getting it back together this week.
Who's idea was it to build custom stuff???
The next project with be lowering "blocks". But its really more like lowering flat bar, just to drop the back the same as I did the front.
 
New K is in and everything is buttoned up and alignment is done. I'm going with +8.5 degrees caster, -2 degrees camber and zero toe. I didn't even drive it before I took the transmission out. What a pain in the *** that is.
Here's what needs to happen just to get the trans out of this turd.
The console needs to be removed so I can remove the shifter. The headlight and wiper switch are in the console, so those need to be unplugged with some contortionist style wrist movement
The TKO needs to be on a rather steep angle to come out, so that means the engine needs to tilt back rather far. This steep angle means the intake manifold will squash the wires on the bulkhead behind it. So off comes the intake. Oh also motor mounts need to be loosened.
The X pipe also needs to be removed since the crossover lands right where the very end of the tail shaft is once the input shaft is pulled from the bellhousing. If the X was 3" further back, I could probably get away with just disconnecting the headers. I'll start getting it back together this week.
Who's idea was it to build custom stuff???
The next project with be lowering "blocks". But its really more like lowering flat bar, just to drop the back the same as I did the front.
I think we are punishing ourselves for all the **** we did when we were younger and didn't get caught... It's the only thing that makes sense. Some kind of penance for our sins.
 
I think we are punishing ourselves for all the **** we did when we were younger and didn't get caught... It's the only thing that makes sense. Some kind of penance for our sins.
Ain't that the truth! Unfortunately, I think I still have some big ones that I need to make up for. Only God knows what's coming for me...
 
When ya get some miles on ya.....you pull the easy stuff. Installed a new car cover today. Whew!!!!

20250804_161126.jpg
 
Well that's badass!

They could of "fixed" a couple of (more) things, but I got tied of going back and forth with their "design" team.

Heading to the Nats this Thursday and ready for some fun with my Mopar friends. Amazingly, I just retrieved it from (last) winter storage but with all that has taken place in the last year, I'm gonna give myself a pass.
 
They could of "fixed" a couple of (more) things, but I got tied of going back and forth with their "design" team.

Heading to the Nats this Thursday and ready for some fun with my Mopar friends. Amazingly, I just retrieved it from (last) winter storage but with all that has taken place in the last year, I'm gonna give myself a pass.
100% get a pass on that for the year you've had!
 
Trans in back in and all the crap that had to come out to accommodate the removal is back installed. I didn't even drive it before I started messing with the leaf springs. I've already made the lower blocks (flatbar) and just need to install them, then put it together to make sure I like the way its sitting.
My buddy that would normally help install the trans wasn't able to help due to some health issues. This made me realize my shoulders are too worn out to sling a 100lb trans over my head while laying on the ground. I gave in and got the HF scissor type trans jack. I have to say, it worked pretty good. I think it would also make installing a diff easy too. My shoulders are about at their limit picking those up too. I guess $120 is worth preventing a torn rotator...
 
Here's a good comparison of the ride height change. The rear is a smidge lower than the front right now. I still have a few more things to do, but definitely in the home stretch of getting work done that I wasn't planning on doing... I haven't driven it yet besides backing out the garage to check my clutch adjustment.

height compare.jpg
 
Here's a good comparison of the ride height change. The rear is a smidge lower than the front right now. I still have a few more things to do, but definitely in the home stretch of getting work done that I wasn't planning on doing... I haven't driven it yet besides backing out the garage to check my clutch adjustment.

View attachment 1716442173
I like the bottom, but you already knew that
 
Here's a good comparison of the ride height change. The rear is a smidge lower than the front right now. I still have a few more things to do, but definitely in the home stretch of getting work done that I wasn't planning on doing... I haven't driven it yet besides backing out the garage to check my clutch adjustment.

View attachment 1716442173

Do you think the bottom stance is doable on stock type front suspension? Or will you run out of LCA clearance?
 
Do you think the bottom stance is doable on stock type front suspension? Or will you run out of LCA clearance?
Yes. When I was with Brian in St. Louis he measured and the front of his was lower than mine. I don't recall what size tire he has up front to know if it was lower due to tire height.
 
-
Back
Top Bottom