67cudamack
Well-Known Member
hi my thermostat gasket is leaking on my 67 barracuda , what is the best sealent our way to fix it
thermostat gasket leaking
- Thread starter 67cudamack
- Start date
-
This stuff works great on the stock parts.
https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-20539-Indian-Shellac-Compound/dp/B0008KLOG6/?tag=fabo03-20
https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-20539-Indian-Shellac-Compound/dp/B0008KLOG6/?tag=fabo03-20
I had the part number for Real Gasket once upon a time. Try Ebay.com , search Real Gaskets Tennesse
I bought a new thermostat housing from Mancini Racing Mopar Performance Parts - Yahoo Top Service Award Winner!
haven’t had a leak since 2012.
What brand of gasket are you using, I used the blue Fel-Pro
since we are on this subject, im putting together my 340, In the past my thermostat housings always leak.
the intake housing is a little pitted but the housing is new, i have a flowkooler water pump... does anyone have a proven method that seals the thermostat housing to the WP without leaks?.....I hear that the flowkooler creates a little more pressure..
the intake housing is a little pitted but the housing is new, i have a flowkooler water pump... does anyone have a proven method that seals the thermostat housing to the WP without leaks?.....I hear that the flowkooler creates a little more pressure..
Kendog 170
Let the boy go !
Maybe not proven but I used an 80 grit piece of sandpaper laid flat on my bench and sanded my stock housing. It was not perfectly flat until I did that. No leaks now. I did use sealer as well.
mderoy340
Well-Known Member
i skim both sides with rtv and just snug the bolts. After curing I tighten another 1/8 turn. Surfaces need to be flat. If oring housing you only tighten lightly to compress the oring.
Yes..!! I am a FIRM believer in the thin coat of good RTV on both surfaces. Do the best you can to get them flat first. (straight edge and file etc). I do NOT use a gasket !! After years and years of every other method and seepage. I tried this method. I always considered it a hokey fix so I didn’t do it. One day out of patience and gaskets I tried it. Never a drop since..!! On many different applications. I do like the Mancini fixture for small and big blocks. Not sure if the slant uses a different one ? Good luck..! Swingn’
I did try all of the above tricks. The Flowkooler pump blew the Real Gasket out 2 times in a row, fun cleaning up the engine bay. The Flashpower #181491-200 o-ringed thermostat housing cured it. Have them on 3 cars now. That number is for the 370 Robert Shaw thermostat. The Real Gasket worked fine until I installed the Flowkooler pump.
10-4 On the flow cooler. Just enough extra to overcome the sealer. I know back in the day Moroso used to sell restricters in place of the thermostat. Mostly race applications. You could get different sizes to slow down the flow. Not as restrictive thermostat but enough to maintain temperature. Agreed on the engine compartment clean up ! Once is bad enough !! Swingn’
The biggest thing has been touched on but of course run over with suggestions of RTV and o-ringed housings and such. The biggest and most important thing is to assure you have FLAT mating surfaces of the intake manifold and thermostat housing. That way, all you need is a regular thermostat housing gasket and it will seal just fine.
I used a silicone gasket and it sealed first time and its reusable. 
Yes, the only thing that I didn't do was run a Bridgeport end mill over my stuff. Plus, I was just tired of sealer oozing out all over the place with antifreeze. The o-ringed housing with no sealer was the ticket. To each his own.
Good luck.
Good luck.
Kendog 170
Let the boy go !
A piece of glass and sandpaper is all that's needed. A sanding block for the intake. No need for a 10K dollar Bridgeport.
I don't have an end mill anyway! My aluminum Sixpack intake probably had a pit or two in it, but with sanding and trying different sealers, I was done with it. Never had these issues back in the late sixties and early seventies. I really don't understand it, why some have no issues, others like me do. If you do go o-ring, only torque the bolts to 15-20 inch pounds, that is all it needs. It's about identical to the silicone Real Gasket.
Kendog 170
Let the boy go !
When I sanded my gooseneck, I barely touched it first and I couldn't believe that how bad the surface was.It took quite a bit of sanding to get it right. As for the intake, I would do what randy suggests As for the intake, I would do what Randy suggests
has anyone ever fixed the small pits in the cast iron intake manifold where the thermostat housing sits?
i was thinking about filling the pits with something like JB weld and then sanding smooth, i want to use the flashpower like Cruze recommended but i was concerned about the pitting on the intake...any suggestions besides JB weld?
i was thinking about filling the pits with something like JB weld and then sanding smooth, i want to use the flashpower like Cruze recommended but i was concerned about the pitting on the intake...any suggestions besides JB weld?
aluminum thermostat housings tend to warp. NAPA's replacement is cast iron and seems to help. How high is your radiator pressure cap. I've been running a 7 lb. cap as recommended to me decades ago after a recore. fewer leaks, less stress,
Yall are makin this way harder than it is. As usual. Just get the thermostat housing sanded flat and then use a light coat of RTV on the intake to cover the pits and put the gasket on. Oh happy day.
-
Similar threads
- Locked
