Initial CalTrac setup.

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MMissile

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I've got Krusty together and running. Everything has been gone over to make sure the car won't have parts falling off.
The car feels very strong...however, when I whack it, it wants to steer right. It does this on blacktop 2-lane, concrete 5-lane, etc.
Where should I start looking? I have AFCO DA's in the rear, and Strange DA's in the front.

Thanks, it's a new car and world, with the CalTrac...
 
IIRC, add bar to the right side, go about 1/4 turn at a time. Or take bar out of the left.

Whichever direction it pulls, add bar on that side.
 
Also make sure your roll out is the same on both rear tires and inflation is the same. That should always be the first thing to check....
 
I have never seen this before.
Thank you...................Ted
Don't know about now but in the early days of Caltrac products, you could get ahold of John on the phone for advice on the product. Might be why he did that website lol
 

spool
I have a friend coming over to adjust it, while I'm in the car. We're also setting up the DA shocks on both ends, with a baseline start from my chassis builder.

Thanks.
 
Don't know about now but in the early days of Caltrac products, you could get ahold of John on the phone for advice on the product. Might be why he did that website lol
You can still get ahold of him on the phone. I've always spoken to him or his son. Both very helpful!
 
Here are a few tips that worked on my Calvert setup. 72' Scamp. D60/spool

- John created the baseline settings on his website using F-body and X-body springs. Those GM monoleafs are approximately 4" longer from the front eyelet to the axle than A-Bodies. Which means the longer the spring, the more preload they will require to control it. When I followed the original setup instructions, the rear suspension had too much preload and it separated too quickly. As a result, my car hopped off the line every time. It didn't matter how much Rebound I applied to the shocks. It was uncontrollable until I reduced the preload. Instead of adding 2 flats of preload, I have about 1/8" of space between the top of the spring and the pivot bushing. (The width of a nickel).

- Keep the components "loose". The number #1 issue people have with this system is that they set them up too tight and they bind. They will rattle a little on the street, but it needs freedom of movement to do its job. It's a tradeoff.

- Make sure that you're setting the suspension on level ground with weights in the drivers seat and a full tank of gas. Basically street trim. There's no sense in fine tuning the settings while not using real world variables. I use gym plates and dumbbells to mimic my weight.

- Finally, and this is probably the most important, is to get a proper alignment. If you have alignment plates and a tape measure, you can do this at home. If not, take it to a shop. I usually set my alignment up with the car flat on the ground, then with the front suspension at 25% extension and again at 75% extension to compensate for the travel at launch. I take an average of the 3 and then set it there. Mine is a dedicated track car so this is my system and it works. A street car will different specs for the crown of the road, but the premise is still the same.


Good luck! It's a great system once you get them tuned. Just takes time and patience to find what works for your setup
 
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Here are a few tips that worked on my Calvert setup. 72' Scamp. D60/spool

- John created the baseline settings on his website using F-body and X-body springs. Those GM monoleafs are approximately 4" longer from the front eyelet to the axle than A-Bodies. Which means the longer the spring, the more preload they will require to control it. When I followed the original setup instructions, the rear suspension had too much preload and it separated too quickly. As a result, my car hopped off the line every time. It didn't matter how much Rebound I applied to the shocks. It was uncontrollable until I reduced the preload. Instead of adding 2 flats of preload, I have about 1/8" of space between the top of the spring and the pivot bushing. (The width of a nickel).

- Keep the components "loose". The number #1 issue people have with this system is that they set them up too tight and they bind. They will rattle a little on the street, but it needs freedom of movement to do its job. It's a tradeoff.

- Make sure that you're setting the suspension on level ground with weights in the drivers seat and a full tank of gas. Basically street trim. There's no sense in fine tuning the settings while not using real world variables. I use gym plates and dumbbells to mimic my weight.

- Finally, and this is probably the most important, is to get a proper alignment. If you have alignment plates and a tape measure, you can do this at home. If not, take it to a shop. I usually set my alignment up with the car flat on the ground, then with the front suspension at 25% extension and again at 75% extension to compensate for the travel at launch. I take an average of the 3 and then set it there. Mine is a dedicated track car so this is my system and it works. A street car will different specs for the crown of the road, but the premise is still the same.


Good luck! It's a great system once you get them tuned. Just takes time and patience to find what works for your setup
This is great advice, this is the way i set up my bars, and they work perfect, i have made no adjustments since i installed them, my car goes 1.36 60 foot on a 9 inch tire.
 
See the JPG in the first post:
Caltrac Tuning Info LOOK HERE

Says to add a little pre-load to the side that the car is driving towards...basically pulls some of the hook from that tire so it's not pulling so hard with respect to the other. This may also be corrected in the baseline when you have your friend adjust/even out the pre-loads with you in the car as you mentioned. So, only start tweaking the side to side offset in pre-load once the baseline has been established:) And of course, every car is different, and can be further compounded by surface. Glad to hear Krusty is up and running!

Can't wait to hear the dialed in results:steering:
 
This is great advice, this is the way i set up my bars, and they work perfect, i have made no adjustments since i installed them, my car goes 1.36 60 foot on a 9 inch tire.
My car is a toad next to your guys but that is how my bars are set also. I have no clearance on one side and about a dime on the other. Car just leaves and goes straight. Never have to adjust them. 1.49 best, typically 1.51-ish 60' times.
 
See the JPG in the first post:
Caltrac Tuning Info LOOK HERE

Says to add a little pre-load to the side that the car is driving towards...basically pulls some of the hook from that tire so it's not pulling so hard with respect to the other. This may also be corrected in the baseline when you have your friend adjust/even out the pre-loads with you in the car as you mentioned. So, only start tweaking the side to side offset in pre-load once the baseline has been established:) And of course, every car is different, and can be further compounded by surface. Glad to hear Krusty is up and running!

Can't wait to hear the dialed in results:steering:
As of Saturday.....
I driven it to a couple very local events. Still gotta get to the adjustments this week. I've basicly run out of time for track testing this year.

Krusty cert 2.jpg
Krusty cert paper.jpg
 
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Frank and I have decided to forgo the big local cruise on the 27th, and get Krusty up to Ubly for some sorting and 600ft hits. I want a baseline, to come out hard, in the spring.
 
Frank and I have decided to forgo the big local cruise on the 27th, and get Krusty up to Ubly for some sorting and 600ft hits. I want a baseline, to come out hard, in the spring.
Are you still planning to go to Ubly on the 27th? I would enjoy seeing this one in person and checking out some shakedown runs.
 
What et does it run? I have mine set at one full turn at race weight. 275/50/15. 3.55 gears. Foot brake. Traps around 6200. 9.80’s lately like a bracket car. Also a little nitrous with 20% hit at the start then half a second delay for full hit!! No spin here! Milan is close to me, I’ll be there Saturday. I have forgotten to set delay before and it dead hooks And hangs the skinny’s little high
 
What et does it run? I have mine set at one full turn at race weight. 275/50/15. 3.55 gears. Foot brake. Traps around 6200. 9.80’s lately like a bracket car. Also a little nitrous with 20% hit at the start then half a second delay for full hit!! No spin here! Milan is close to me, I’ll be there Saturday. I have forgotten to set delay before and it dead hooks And hangs the skinny’s little high
2500 converter
Top hole with preload
 
Are you still planning to go to Ubly on the 27th? I would enjoy seeing this one in person and checking out some shakedown runs.
We're now going on Sunday the 28th. Saturday has some shoot-out race. Depends on how you look at the website. Two different pages/schedules for Saturday.
I figure that'll play to our advantage. Lots of rubber on the track.
 
As of Saturday.....
I driven it to a couple very local events. Still gotta get to the adjustments this week. I've basicly run out of time for track testing this year.

View attachment 1716452416View attachment 1716452417
Not sure about Milan, but Martin has Saturday test and tunes( on extremely well prepped surface)until well into October.
11th and 18th, and also the first weekend there is test and tune during an event( street car takeover)….all in October.
 
Went to Ubly. FAIL. Rolled up and did the burnout, was staging...and then was shut off.
I can't believe I didn't put a vent hose and puke can on my ATI Turbo-400. A few drops hit the headers, smoke....done.
Oh well, looking for a track rental in a couple weeks. Haven't decided where. New car blues.
Had great assistance from Frank and Vito. I wish it went better for them.
I can live with a couple hiccups in the program.
 
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