Dartswinger70
Well-Known Member
Man that's alot of work I commend you but I imagine alot of the cars are like this these days. I was around in the 90s when you could still find a fairly rust free specimen etc.
Today I finished disconnecting the front fender brace things, what was left of the trans crossmember, and drilled out all the spot welds of the engine "enclosure". I also cut the frame ahead of the k-frame, like I said in a previous post. I then dropped the whole frame, k-frame, and suspension out of the bottom of the car (9 hours).
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Ya, I design cell sites for a living and really hate phones. As a result, my phone is a piece o' junk. I'll take better photos tomorrow.If you could take some nicer pictures in the daytime, that would be appreciated. I mean no disrespect when I say that
the pic's quality are ok, they're just dark so we can't see them properlyYa, I design cell sites for a living and really hate phones. As a result, my phone is a piece o' junk. I'll take better photos tomorrow.
LOL......Don't blinkAn update on the labor that I would be charged if I brought the car to a local bodyshop at $125 per hour: Since my last calculation on August 19, I've worked 3 hours per day after office work and before it gets dark, Monday through Thursday, = 12 hours per week X 6 weeks = 72 hours x $125 pr hr = $9000. So $9000 + $2750 from the last calculation = $11750 into this project if I was paying someone to do the work.
To calculate the actual cost: tools and materials = about $400. Then adding the purchase price of the car $1200, parts = about $1000, and renting a uhaul car trailer and driving 6 hour round trip (twice= $200 + $200) + food and beer for the trip = As of today I'm into this project for a total of $400+ $1200 + $1000 + 400 = $3000.
Very true. I was thinking about doing that but figured that if the connections were all spot welded at the factory (panel to panel, and frame to panel connections), then re-spot welding (or at least simulating the spot welds) was enough.. But ya, I agree, welding along the seams would make it alot more rigid.If you were to take the time to seam weld the car - especially in the more than several critical areas - the end result would be a very solid unibody that does not flex.
Ya, I don't know how people do it, sending their car to a company for a restoration and watching the bill climb by the thousands every week...LOL......Don't blink![]()
Or sending their car to a shop with a big up front deposit and have it sit forever not getting done then have to go pick it up take it to another shop.Ya, I don't know how people do it, sending their car to a company for a restoration and watching the bill climb by the thousands every week...