Hurt the 904 and 8.75 at the same time

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Well, I was hoping I was wrong, good new juicewheels ain't cheap. Whose converter is that? It's been 2 different colors, they may be able to fix it for less, curious if You can get a piece to come into view there....

It's a Hughes and was serviced by them back around 2000 when they repainted it blue. Been shaking it around trying to get a metal piece to show up but no luck yet. Maybe I'll smack it with a deadblow around the outside and try again. Fluid coming out was crystal clear.
May call them and see what they think today.
 
Andrews Racing Transmissions

Right up the road from you sorta…. I bought some parts from Chris then had him build the 904 that’s presently in the car.

Our stock component 904 thats now our “spare” lived over 100 passes in our combo. Personally I was surprised the shafts didn’t give us issues as I’d had the discussion with others that had been down that road.
 
Andrews Racing Transmissions

Right up the road from you sorta…. I bought some parts from Chris then had him build the 904 that’s presently in the car.

Our stock component 904 thats now our “spare” lived over 100 passes in our combo. Personally I was surprised the shafts didn’t give us issues as I’d had the discussion with others that had been down that road.
Hmm I'm in CO a couple times a year, hadn't noticed that. Much appreciated!

Hughes was practically speechless about the sprag not working. Here's the weird part- I don't think it's worked for a really long time, it's just now completely failed.

As a 20 year old I stacked the pump and had the spigot(?) replaced, I wonder if I damaged it then. It's always got abysmal gas mileage, like 10-13 out of a 273.
 
Got a ticket with Hughes so they'll take a look at it. Meanwhile, made a vid of a sprag check. Am I doing this right? It did make a scrape noise but not in the video.


The converter should be on the table, and You need to be holding the stator support alone, remember....when the sprag locks the only change is the mass You are rotating,.....sprag hub only vs the entire hub/sprag/wheel assy., so You need to move it quickly enough to feel it lock w/o holding a bunch of mass.
 
The converter should be on the table, and You need to be holding the stator support alone, remember....when the sprag locks the only change is the mass You are rotating,.....sprag hub only vs the entire hub/sprag/wheel assy., so You need to move it quickly enough to feel it lock w/o holding a bunch of mass.
Much appreciated! From your description, I'd say there's a chance the sprag is okay, but figured it wouldn't hurt to have Hughes take a look at it.

Also wanted to thank everyone that's contributed, I couldn't do it without you guys!

Flirting with getting a bolt together converter if this one is junk, roughly double the price I initially paid for the entire car.

Setup I stole from 4spdragtop:

PXL_20251001_194427157.jpg
 
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Much appreciated! From your description, I'd say there's a chance the sprag is okay, but figured it wouldn't hurt to have Hughes take a look at it.

Also wanted to thank everyone that's contributed, I couldn't do it without you guys!

Flirting with getting a bolt together converter if this one is junk, roughly double the price I initially paid for the entire car.

Setup I stole from 4spdragtop:

View attachment 1716461956
Neal Chance builds good bolt together converters. Kim
 
The pipe plug in the extension housing is to check governor pressure in automatic shift applications.

As for the input to output thrust washer, it depends on the year/design of the output shaft.
 
To my knowledge that round replacement washer is only available in fiber now. You will be fine to reuse yours.
Much appreciated! I'll reuse that guy then.

Speaking of hairline cracks, I found the welds cracked completely around most of the low gear(?) planetary pins. I mean reallllly fine cracks, but they're present. Seems like I posted about that before and it's not a big deal?

I can TIG them no prob but any welding might warp stuff just enough to solve one problem and create another.

PXL_20250920_070521401.jpg
 
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Air checking stuff now, everything works but it's not confidence inspiring. More leaky than I'd like on the rear clutch and front servo.

One of the outer clutch seals that came with the Pioneer kit has a shorter lip than the old one. Does anyone make this wider seal? The newer seal is much stiffer, a ***** to install, and I regret to say I damaged the old one playing with it. Otherwise it'd be going back in for another 25 years!

Today will be pulling it all back apart and starting over. Forgot to measure geartrain endplay. Genius move.

drum seals.jpg
 
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