My headlights cut off on high beam ( 69 Dart Swinger) My DVM meter shows 5amp draw on high. Does the headlight switch have a circuit breaker in it that could be causing it.
Thanks FABO
Thanks FABO
Headlights Cut Off
- Thread starter blewbyoutobad
- Start date
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Yup. Pretty common with some of these brighter than stock bulbs, or if you've done an H4 upgrade and not installed the relay harness. The lights in my Ford truck would start flashing on high beam before I put the relay harness in. I did the H4 conversion first, hoping to avoid spending money on the harness. Yeah. That worked out real good. NOT. lol
65TerrorCuda
Well-Known Member
Had that happen with an aftermarket switch. Put the original back in problem solved.
Wish I still had the original. It is a B to change the switch. Was brand new from
Thanks Rusty
No harness change and stock bulbs so I guess I got a crappy switch.
Thanks Rusty
Where can I buy a quality switch. This crappy one came from Ron Francis. Was bad from the git go. I've had it to long to return.
You bet. If you ever wanted to upgrade to maybe an H4 conversion or "some such" now is a good time.
Wish I still had the original. It is a B to change the switch. Was brand new from Ron Francis.
I'll even come back and add this. Even if you do find a "good" switch, do this experiment. Cut the headlights on bright. Leave them on for about 15 minutes and reach under the dash and grab the headlight switch. But be careful. It's gonna be HOT. That's because they were never really designed to carry that load. Chrysler should have run the load through relays. To me, that right there is enough to upgrade. Just food for thought.
☆☆☆☆☆
Thank you Rusty
Is it the switch or the dimmer?
slantsixdan
=..=
New old stock American-made one from Old Car Parts Northwest
Not a reliable or truthful source for anything lighting-related.
Ping @crackedback for a headlight relay setup; it's a really good idea for all the reasons I explain in detail here.
Best idea ever!
Checking the dimmer tomorrow.
Dave999
Well-Known Member
my switch, 50 year old, used to have days when the headlights didn't work, they'd just randomly go off and id have to stop and rig a "jumper" at the bulkhead connector to get them on... and then weeks when they worked fine so i presumed some kind of breaker in there
i have factory fitted relay for headlights and some kind of lock out setup by a second factory relay to only allow driving lights if headlamps are on high beam...
so even with the relays the switches can go bad...maybe 2 relay coils pull the same current as 2 candle power sealed beam headlamps do, and therefore trigger a well worn thermal breaker
my experience is once it has done it once, it will do it more and more until you can't trust the lights will come on and stay on for more than about 5 minutes
the switches came with 7 connectors or 7+ 1 grounding tag, and 9 connectors
you car will be wired for one or the other....
the 7 connector switch is not an 9 connector switch with 2 missing. the pin outs are subtly different. for at least 2 of the pins in the middle they are linked one version and not on the other
if you have the big plastic plug on you car with all the wires in it. I believe it will physically fit either switch.... which doesn't help
if you want the big plastic plug, they often melt, you can get them new from hemi performance in australia
Dave
i have factory fitted relay for headlights and some kind of lock out setup by a second factory relay to only allow driving lights if headlamps are on high beam...
so even with the relays the switches can go bad...maybe 2 relay coils pull the same current as 2 candle power sealed beam headlamps do, and therefore trigger a well worn thermal breaker
my experience is once it has done it once, it will do it more and more until you can't trust the lights will come on and stay on for more than about 5 minutes
the switches came with 7 connectors or 7+ 1 grounding tag, and 9 connectors
you car will be wired for one or the other....
the 7 connector switch is not an 9 connector switch with 2 missing. the pin outs are subtly different. for at least 2 of the pins in the middle they are linked one version and not on the other
if you have the big plastic plug on you car with all the wires in it. I believe it will physically fit either switch.... which doesn't help
if you want the big plastic plug, they often melt, you can get them new from hemi performance in australia
Dave
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Dave thank you so much. I cant get under the dash anymore ( back problems) so I will get my mechanic neighbor to help. I did pull an amperage check with the lights on high. It was close to 5 amps which should be ok if I have read right.
Any recommendations on brand of switch to use? OI replaced the switch when I restored the car several years ago.
Thanks for the help,
Randy
69 Dart Swinger 340
Any recommendations on brand of switch to use? OI replaced the switch when I restored the car several years ago.
Thanks for the help,
Randy
69 Dart Swinger 340
slantsixdan
=..=
All currently-production new switches are Taiwanese or Chinese. If you want olde-tyme quality, hit up Old Car Parts Northwest or eBay for a new old stock American or Canadian switch.
You don't need to pay Hemi Performance prices or postage from Australia for the multiwire connector; see here (and dealing with 9- versus 7-wire with it is easy; see here).
There are no factory-installed headlight relays on US- or Canadian-built A-body cars (which, again, is why putting in a setup like @crackedback offers is a highly good idea). A few Australian Valiant Chargers with factory-installed "driving" (aux high beam) lamps had a relay for them.
You don't need to pay Hemi Performance prices or postage from Australia for the multiwire connector; see here (and dealing with 9- versus 7-wire with it is easy; see here).
There are no factory-installed headlight relays on US- or Canadian-built A-body cars (which, again, is why putting in a setup like @crackedback offers is a highly good idea). A few Australian Valiant Chargers with factory-installed "driving" (aux high beam) lamps had a relay for them.
Ron Francis swears the light switch he sells is American made. Been selling the same one for years. Didnt get to check the dimmer switch today. Ron Francis says to check amperage put your DVM in series on the main feed and dont use the clamp on type.
Dave999
Well-Known Member
NOS 1974-1978 PLYMOUTH CHRYSLER DODGE STANDARD HEADLIGHT LAMP SWITCH DS-146 | eBay UK? 7 pin switch probably the wrong one but 2 minutes ebay wrastling even from the UK ebay turned it up...
and Rick Ehrenberg, usually sells some decent stuff, and doesn't tend to do anything to his cars as a half measure....
ebay blocks direct linking hence the "Pardon...." but the link works
Pardon our interruption...
at least one of his adverts has a switch in it with a Made in USA sticker, i'm inclined to believe he means the switch not the sticker
he was a very helpful man when I was doing some LHD RHD 16:1 steering box conversions i.e free with the detail, genuinely interested (owns an aussie charger) and facilitated a 3 way email chat with firmfeel etc... i trust his judgement is what i'm saying.
Dave
and Rick Ehrenberg, usually sells some decent stuff, and doesn't tend to do anything to his cars as a half measure....
ebay blocks direct linking hence the "Pardon...." but the link works
Pardon our interruption...
at least one of his adverts has a switch in it with a Made in USA sticker, i'm inclined to believe he means the switch not the sticker
he was a very helpful man when I was doing some LHD RHD 16:1 steering box conversions i.e free with the detail, genuinely interested (owns an aussie charger) and facilitated a 3 way email chat with firmfeel etc... i trust his judgement is what i'm saying.
Dave
Dave999
Well-Known Member
getting switch out
if you kneel on the floor 1 knee on the ground the other on the sill, like you are poposing to it. you can get a hand up under the dash to press the nipple on the side of the switch. pull out the knob undo the collar and push it back through the dash... there is usually enough slack to pull it down below near the air flap pull, and take a peak at it. put on new switch test it for a few days and then get you mate to fit it back in... that's the hard bit. there is a tang to stop the switch rotating and to make sure it goes in the correct way.... some I have have seen have the hole in the dash chewed out, presume someone butchered a different switch in at some point
you must use the correct screw in collar, if one comes with the switch the one off the car is the right one, to cater for the thickness of any plastic trim or on some cars lack of any trim, if you use the wrong one you can push the ceramic disk too far forward. you can get flat faced collar with 2 holes off with circlip pliers if its a domed thing with ribs you might get away with the same.
don't go swiveling that ceramic disk about without the knob and collar in the switch you can knock it off axis or ping out spring washers, and on a used switch the contacts can get hung up.... depends how horrible and corroded the interior light dimmer coil is. they can be a right mess or burnt out if the interior light power feed has shorted out to the inside of the roof. some Aussie cars had exposed contacts and fibre board glued to the roof to insulate them from it, if the light got pushed up. The board comes off and floats about on the headlining leaving the wire exposed, waiting for a tall man to bang his head on the light and short it all out.... this takes out the light the dash lights and the wiring/connector, melts the wire up the A pillar, which is a pig to change...
Dave
if you kneel on the floor 1 knee on the ground the other on the sill, like you are poposing to it. you can get a hand up under the dash to press the nipple on the side of the switch. pull out the knob undo the collar and push it back through the dash... there is usually enough slack to pull it down below near the air flap pull, and take a peak at it. put on new switch test it for a few days and then get you mate to fit it back in... that's the hard bit. there is a tang to stop the switch rotating and to make sure it goes in the correct way.... some I have have seen have the hole in the dash chewed out, presume someone butchered a different switch in at some point
you must use the correct screw in collar, if one comes with the switch the one off the car is the right one, to cater for the thickness of any plastic trim or on some cars lack of any trim, if you use the wrong one you can push the ceramic disk too far forward. you can get flat faced collar with 2 holes off with circlip pliers if its a domed thing with ribs you might get away with the same.
don't go swiveling that ceramic disk about without the knob and collar in the switch you can knock it off axis or ping out spring washers, and on a used switch the contacts can get hung up.... depends how horrible and corroded the interior light dimmer coil is. they can be a right mess or burnt out if the interior light power feed has shorted out to the inside of the roof. some Aussie cars had exposed contacts and fibre board glued to the roof to insulate them from it, if the light got pushed up. The board comes off and floats about on the headlining leaving the wire exposed, waiting for a tall man to bang his head on the light and short it all out.... this takes out the light the dash lights and the wiring/connector, melts the wire up the A pillar, which is a pig to change...
Dave
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Thanks Dave I will give it a try as well as the dimmer test. I screwed up when I built the dash on the bench in that I dont think I left enough slack in the wiring, but I will try. Thanks for your help and Happy Thanksgiving
Randy
Randy
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