360 HP estimate

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67cudaGuy

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Hey all I picked up a 78 360 stock bottom end. It’s got a moderate cam (not sure exact specs), rpm intake, 68 340 manifolds, 650 cfm carb and will have 2.5 inch duals. I’m wondering what a should expect for hp? Is it worth doing any porting or other speed parts?

Thanks for any advice
 
About whatever the E58 was rated at. A stock 360 four barrel engine. Bout like JYH said.
 
Hey all I picked up a 78 360 stock bottom end. It’s got a moderate cam (not sure exact specs), rpm intake, 68 340 manifolds, 650 cfm carb and will have 2.5 inch duals. I’m wondering what a should expect for hp? Is it worth doing any porting or other speed parts?

Thanks for any advice
This can not be estimated because of a lack of information on the camshaft.

The problem is the low compression which will more than likely be measured out at 7.8-1. My ‘79-360 came out to this ratio.

Yes! Speed parts will help increase the performance.
Yes head work will help. Worth it? Probably not by the seat of the pants very much, but it will add power.

Use an “H” pipe on the exhaust.
Upgrade the ignition.
Head work should be a good valve job and porting in the bowl area. The area just under the valve along with the short side radius of the port. That’s it.
Headers are better but not mandatory.
 

Hey all I picked up a 78 360 stock bottom end. It’s got a moderate cam (not sure exact specs), rpm intake, 68 340 manifolds, 650 cfm carb and will have 2.5 inch duals. I’m wondering what a should expect for hp? Is it worth doing any porting or other speed parts?

Thanks for any advice
274.3 hp
 
if you get this far bore 30 over 10 2 1 pistons that will wake that 360 up in a hurry,it shure did my 360 .

I was looking into pistons how much did the machine work cost for you? Did you have crank work done or get a new balancer? Thanks
 
Imo, A better approach to improving the engine performance would be to lay out the performance goals for the vehicle, along with some of the overall combo details(gears, converter, primary usage, etc), along with the desired hp range you’re after.
Then people can post up some recommended “packages”.

Before getting too carried away, you should figure out what your budget for the engine is……..to see if the budget and performance goals are close to being on the same page.
 
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I was looking into pistons how much did the machine work cost for you? Did you have crank work done or get a new balancer? Thanks
Speed pro is what I got 3 years ago 300 is what I remember ,polished crank no new balancer rebuild bottom end,cost 2 grand including pistons the 360 does suffer from low compression.l have had low comp 360 in a few Darts,Duster, but this time I pulled a little more out of my pockets Glad I did,my 71 Satellite is a heavey car,but my 360 now can get out of its own way lol.wish I did the pistons change in my 360 Dart that would of bin a scarry ride.
 
About whatever the E58 was rated at. A stock 360 four barrel engine. Bout like JYH said.
the E58 was rated at 245 in 74 but by 80 was only like 185. in 78/9 the EH1 LRE was rated at 225, so i figured why not split the baby.

haw! 275 was my knee jerk response, but i amended it after looking up what 360 4bbl specs were at the time...
 
A completely stock engine, on an engine dyno with correct log manifolds and 2” exhaust pipes with mufflers, stock carb, air cleaner assy, and a belt running the w/p……using the j607 correction…….I think that 275hp guess is pretty close.
I’d call it 250-275hp, STP corrected.
 
I’m wondering what a should expect for hp?

At 7.8 Scr, and say an ICA of 64 degrees,
You might expect cranking cylinder pressure of 115psi @900ft elevation.
You might expect the bottom end to feel only a lil stronger than a slanty.
The only way past this is;
with a moderate stall converter and
Hi-perf rear gears, and
Forget about taking on passengers.
Point it downhill and floor it, but don't tell the wife you'll be right back, cuz it's uphill coming home.

Listen, for a street car, with street gears and a factory stall converter, having 245 hp at 4800rpm is almost meaningless, and pales in comparison to having 245 ftlbs of torque right off idle, and 400 by 3000.
You can't get that with the combo you describe.

Imagine you are sitting atta stoplight.
Imagine you have 3.23 gears, and an 1800 stall convertor, that musters a ratio of 1.5 for however brief a moment, at stall.
Imagine yur 7.8 hotrod makes 240 ftlbs at 1800, which is 82 horsepower.
Imagine you floor it, and into the axles goes
240 x1.5 x2.45 x3.23= 2850 ftlbs.

>Now suppose all you do is replace that convertor, for a 2800 stall and say it makes a ratio of 1.7 , and say your anemic 360 makes 280ftlbs at 2800, which is 149hp. Into the rear axles go
280 x1.7 x2.45 x3.23= 3767 ftlbs. which is 32% more torque.

> let's add 3.91s; into the rear axles go
280 x1.7 x2.45 x3.91= 4560 ftlbs, which is an increase of another 21%

Now imagine, you pumped that 360 up to 195 ftlbs and are running alloy heads with a modest cam that has an Ica of 60 degrees, and now yur running 3.91s and a 2800 stall. Say this engine makes 380 flbs at 2800, which is 200hp. and say your new converter musters a ratio of 1.7. Into the rear axles go
380 x 1.7 x 2.45 x3.91= 6188 ftlbs, which is a further increase of 35.7%
now yur talking frying tires and billowing smoke.

Ok I know, how about using this HO 360 with the stock 1800 TC and 3.23s. Suppose at 1800 that HO 360 now puts out 320ftlbs, Into the rear axles goes
320 x 1.6 x2.45 x3.23= 4050 ftlbs
compared to the 2850 that you started with, this is plus 42%


So now, look at the percentage increases, and decide for yourself, which is right for you.
Please note, all Torque numbers I have used were pulled out of my imagination, to help illustrate this concept. Your results will vary.

IMHO
on the street, 1 ftlb per cubic inch at stall, which you are passing thru, many times on every outing, is infinitely more fun than 1hp per cubic inch at say 5000rpm, which rpm, you only get to enjoy but once on your way to the speed limit.
The convertor, the trans, and the rear-end, are all just torque-multipliers; and so, if yur engine is a turd, you'll just have varying amounts of turds with varying amounts of multiplication.
An SBM engine with just 115psi of CCP is a turd. even 135 is still a turd at low-rpm. About the best you can run with iron heads is 165psi and yur not gunna run that with a non-quench design. Whereas ;
With alloy heads, 185psi is easy, and I have run 195psi still on 87E10, with no signs of distress. There are a few guys on FABO running a lil more, usually in strokers, on best pumpgas.
While it's true that you don't need cylinder pressure at the racetrack,
and you don't need pressure for a DD; Nor for hiway travel.
But, it's a myth that you don't need cylinder pressure for a well-balanced hotrod. Every time a street-engine is asked to increase in rpm, it gets there by employing a higher effective cylinder pressure. If 115psi is all you got, getting to a higher rpm takes more time, which is, the bane of hotrodding.
 
We have AJ's math and we have actual drag strip times from 318willrun's lo comp 360 duster. I'm not gonna go through old posts to refresh my memory, but I believe he went 13.90s with stock converter and 2.45s. 12.80s with SM heads , 2800 stall and 3.23s. And we have Holdeners dyno results posted above. Draw your own conclusions. Personally, I trust actual results over "math". Sometimes we find out that less than ideal combos perform better on the pavement than they do on paper.
 
It wouldn't be so bad if he used realistic torque numbers based off actual 360 dyno results instead of numbers pull out of his ***, (which he admits) but that would kill his theory so he uses exaggerated numbers to make it work.
 
It wouldn't be so bad if he used realistic torque numbers based off actual 360 dyno results instead of numbers pull out of his ***, (which he admits) but that would kill his theory so he uses exaggerated numbers to make it work.

evidently "making it work" is anything that doesn't have 190psi of compression needs 4.11's and a 3800 stall

*eyes roll further back into back of skull*
 
evidently "making it work" is anything that doesn't have 190psi of compression needs 4.11's and a 3800 stall

*eyes roll further back into back of skull*
Obviously more cr makes more power but less ain't the kiss of death like he tries to make it out as, peoples dyno and 1/4 mile etc.. results, Proves him wrong and he just ignores and keeps writing his novel over and over again, acting like he's unjustly bullied.

A low cr 360 is just gonna make torque like a decent cr 340 and or a high cr 318, not a /6, which (318/340) is still decent and way above his sub 300 torque numbers even 302 can do better than he said a low cr 360 can do.

Make it make sense :)
 
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