Motor Removal re Motor Mounts?

[340inabbody]

the bolt holes are not perfectly square. it will only bolt one way. Just use a paint marker and mark the converter and flexplate so you will get it right the first time on assembly.

Thank you for taking the time to help me I understand now fully.

 

[Professor Fate]

I do the engine/trans together all the time. No biggy, just take your time.
Couple of things to do beforehand-
-Pull the driveshaft, wrap the trans output in plastic and secure it in place with a couple winds of duct tape. Or use a spare yoke if you have one. Otherwise you'll end up with a gallon of ATF on the floor under your car.
-Pull the distributor. Clearance to the firewall can be minimal, and twisting/tipping the engine can bust your distributor if you're not careful.
-Don't forget to drop the exhaust. At the manifolds is best, but can be a pain if the bolts are rusty- and they always are.

 

[340inabbody]

I do the engine/trans together all the time. No biggy, just take your time.
Couple of things to do beforehand-
-Pull the driveshaft, wrap the trans output in plastic and secure it in place with a couple winds of duct tape. Or use a spare yoke if you have one. Otherwise you'll end up with a gallon of ATF on the floor under your car.
-Pull the distributor. Clearance to the firewall can be minimal, and twisting/tipping the engine can bust your distributor if you're not careful.
-Don't forget to drop the exhaust. At the manifolds is best, but can be a pain if the bolts are rusty- and they always are.

Great inputs. I did all of this already.plastic bag over tail shaft with tight rubber bands.

Only need to remove the hood and that I can’t do myself. Headers were taken out last night. That was a pita on the driver side.

I am leaning toward pulling just the motor and then if I am able install as a unit trans/engine.

 

[Professor Fate]

Only need to remove the hood and that I can’t do myself.

With the hood open, loosen all four hood bolts.
Prop the hood open with a broom handle or whatever.
Remove the rear bolts, then remove the broom and allow the hood to pivot down.
Run 2 lifting straps around the hood; one front to back and the other side to side. Two loops of rope will suffice if you don't have lifting straps.
Now use your engine hoist to lift the hood slightly, and remove the forward hood bolts. Now you can wheel the hoist & hood out of the way- if you've got a pair of sawhorses to set the hood down onto, that makes it easier to unhook from the hoist. Done.
Honestly, it probably took me longer to type this than it would take to do it. But I type real slow...

 

[318willrun]

Great inputs. I did all of this already.plastic bag over tail shaft with tight rubber bands.

Only need to remove the hood and that I can’t do myself. Headers were taken out last night. That was a pita on the driver side.

I am leaning toward pulling just the motor and then if I am able install as a unit trans/engine.

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I pull them with the hood on.... but I bolt a chain from the front drivers head to the passenger back 2 intake bolts keeping the slack only about 3" above the intake.

 

[Workingdog1]

It will want to tilt as you lift it out of the car. I just get the motor mounts off the K-frame, then I slide the engine/tranny ahead. That's when I use one of those small 24.99 floor jacks on wheels to help the tail shaft over the crossmember. Don't need a lot of pressure or anything, just get it to clear.

Not noted but assuming floor jack would need to be north south to roll with movement.
Just thinking out loud if I'm in similar boat.

 

[318willrun]

Not noted but assuming floor jack would need to be north south to roll with movement.
Just thinking out loud if I'm in similar boat.

yeah... once the 2 bolts are removed from the mount to tranny, it will just slide right on over. Just giving it a little support so it doesn't do something stupid like tare the rear seal or something. I've never had a issue

 

[Workingdog1]

yeah... once the 2 bolts are removed from the mount to tranny, it will just slide right on over. Just giving it a little support so it doesn't do something stupid like tare the rear seal or something. I've never had a issue

Hope the OP reads this.
Jack needs to be oriented to roll forward or backward supporting transmission as I understand it pulling engine and transmission together.

 

[318willrun]

Hope the OP reads this.
Jack needs to be oriented to roll forward or backward supporting transmission as I understand it pulling engine and transmission together.

Yeah, I've pulled it tipping the jack over before... lol. None of this is critical. Eyeball it and it makes common sense....

 

[Professor Fate]

Hope the OP reads this.
Jack needs to be oriented to roll forward or backward supporting transmission as I understand it pulling engine and transmission together.

Or you just roll the car backwards, which is usually easier.
Especially if you're using a chainfall or winch instead of a cherrypicker.

 

[318willrun]

Or you just roll the car backwards, which is usually easier.
Especially if you're using a chainfall or winch instead of a cherrypicker.

I still support the transmission tailshaft just so it doesn't scrape it's way over, and some seals have the rubber boot and that can get torn.

 

[340inabbody]

I am 90% sure I’m going to the pool just the motor at this point. Are there four facing bolts into rearward facing bolts on the transmission housing?

 

[Professor Fate]

I still support the transmission tailshaft just so it doesn't scrape it's way over, and some seals have the rubber boot and that can get torn.

Right, but you don't have to worry about orienting the floor jack, since it can stay relatively stationary.

 

[340inabbody]

Thanks for all the help guys. We have success!

 

[Dana67Dart]

So did you pull together or seperated

 

[340inabbody]

So did you pull together or seperated

Separately since I was doing it myself. I probably could’ve done both at the same time through the top, but I didn’t want to chance it. So the transmission came out the bottom. The four top bolts at the transmission are a pain in the ***, but not too bad once I figured out how to make an extension for my box end.

I’m definitely going to install it as a one unit though.

 

[JDMopar]

I've done it both ways, and to me it is easier to install them separately. Especially in a B body or E body. I drop the motor in first, then put the trans in from the bottom on a floor jack with a piece of plywood just big enough to support the transmission pan. Get it on the dowels, then put the lower bolts in and tighten them. Then jack it up until the tailshaft just touches the top of the tunnel. Then go up and stand on a stool and install those 2 upper bolts. Then let it back down and secure the transmission mount and crossmember. Jacking it up as high as you can after you get those bottom bolts in will give you a little more working room between the firewall and the bellhousing. A short 9/16 socket on an air ratchet helps ease the cussing....lol.

 

[340inabbody]

I've done it both ways, and to me it is easier to install them separately. Especially in a B body or E body. I drop the motor in first, then put the trans in from the bottom on a floor jack with a piece of plywood just big enough to support the transmission pan. Get it on the dowels, then put the lower bolts in and tighten them. Then jack it up until the tailshaft just touches the top of the tunnel. Then go up and stand on a stool and install those 2 upper bolts. Then let it back down and secure the transmission mount and crossmember. Jacking it up as high as you can after you get those bottom bolts in will give you a little more working room between the firewall and the bellhousing. A short 9/16 socket on an air ratchet helps ease the cussing....lol.

When you “drop in” the motor you have it balancing on the hoist and have the bolts loose in the mounts right? Because the engine will want to sit back against the firewall if its not supported. Don’t ask me how I learned that..

 

[JDMopar]

On a B or E body, I tighten all the motor mount bolts at the block and slide the thru bolt in down on the k frame. Leave that thru bolt a little loose until the trans is in so you don't rip the rubber mounts wiggling the motor up and down. You can make something to support the engine from the bottom so it doesn't droop down and hit the firewall before you get the trans in. As far as learning something the hard way.....been there done that! Those are usually the best lessons we learn if nobody gets hurt. It only took me once to remember to put the torque converter in before installing the transmission! I was 18 or 19 and everything I did was WFO.....lol.